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 11 
 on: Today at 02:17:45 AM 
Started by M+D - Last post by M+D
Thanks deejjjaaaa.  Very tempting...but I am trying to stick to the budget for a change Smiley

 12 
 on: Today at 02:11:20 AM 
Started by pemihan - Last post by pemihan
I'm on a 2010 3.33 GHz six core Mac Pro with 32gb RAM and SSD PCI bootdrive where my session folder resides.
My images are on ordinary hard drives in the bays in the machine.

My GPU is a ATI Radeon HD 5770 1024 MB.

I have Hardware Acceleration (OpenCL) in C1 set to never.

If I want to make adjustments on an image at 100% there is an annoying delay in showing the effect. If I don't zoom in everything is smoth.
I have tried to set Hardware Acceleration (OpenCL) on Auto but then I have delays all the time.

Is the 100% delay something that possibly could be solved by upgrading my GPU to for instance a AMD Sapphire HD 7950 Mac Edition 3 GB?
Or is there something else to blame for the it?

Thanks
Peter

 13 
 on: Today at 01:47:05 AM 
Started by ripgriffith - Last post by ripgriffith
Hitting two buttons is indeed bad luck but again this should only obscure part of the display but a larger part and this too is cleared by a half press of the shutter button.

I'm all for reading the manual even if it's something that I rarely do myself Cheesy The button customisation procedure is pretty straight forward and you should be able to figure out how to do it without resorting to the manual but it's there if needed. I don't know what the answer is for anyone having finger trouble, enabling "Direct Focus Area" will change the function of the buttons but instead of calling up WB you'll move the focus point.
Of course, reading the manual is a good thing, and it is something I do; however, changing the quad button to DFA only changes the problem, not eliminate it.  Ideally, I don't want to have to half-press the button to get rid of something undesirable, I want to have the camera ready to shoot when I am ready to shoot.  Some of you may remember when Sony introduced the a65/a77 and some of the Nex series which had the movie button in a position guaranteed to be actuated at the wrong moment.  Sony, for at least one in their history, did a firmware fix that allowed disabling the movie button until you really wanted to use it.  Seems like Panny could do something similar so that I could, should I choose, disengage the entire quadrant of buttons, perhaps being able to reassign one or more of their functions to other function buttons.  God knows the GX7 has enough  of those.  99% of the time, I just want to shoot and shoot quickly.  The rare instance in which I need to change the WB, I can do via the menu or a function button.

 14 
 on: Today at 01:41:02 AM 
Started by Nostalgiczombie - Last post by BernardLanguillier
The lenses I have been using on the D810 most for stitching recently in order of priority:
- Zeiss Otus 55mm f1.4, not weather sealed, caution required with condensation, superb optically,
- Leica 180mm f2.8 APO, probably not weather sealed, superb optically,
- Nikon 400mm f2.8 E FL, superb optically,
- Nikon 70-200 f4, not weather sealed, seems very resistant still, excellent optically,
- Sigma 35mm f1.4, very good optically (bokeh a bit questionable),
- Zeiss 100mm f2, probably not weather sealed, excellent optically,

I also own the 14-24 f2.8, but it sees very usage since I stitch a lot.

I used to own the Zeiss 50mm f2. It is very good to excellent also, but not in Otus class.

Cheers,
Bernard

 15 
 on: Today at 12:52:32 AM 
Started by macguiver - Last post by Mark Lindquist
I'd say your chances are quite good that all that is wrong is you have a bad printhead.  FWIW: HP recommends blotting, not wiping with a coffee filter moistened with distilled water.  The ink nozzles are unfathomably small, and easily plugged by things dragging across them.  I use Windex as a second step if needed.  In most cases, though, it's best to not spend too much time with the printheads and to just replace them.

I don't see Windex mentioned anywhere iin the HP manuals, Ron, LOL!  
When a printhead is clogged and you need to print, a little back and forth wiping (in solution) works wonders, I've found. I mentioned "stamping" in my above post - meaning the same as "blotting".  I just used the wiping technique on all print heads on a machine that had been sitting for two years, and only had to replace one head.  All the rest came back fully, according to the diagnostic print.  It's printing beautifully now.
But when a head won't come back, replacing it is best - agreed.  

Beautiful website, by the way, Ron -

-Mark


 16 
 on: Today at 12:43:02 AM 
Started by M+D - Last post by deejjjaaaa
I am interested in upgrading my display and my main priorities are uniformity and color consistency.  While I would love to go all in for a state of the art display, the budget is simply not there right now.  My plan is to purchase a smaller display (23 or 24) in order to get the quality I want and stay within budget.
I am looking to spend between $400-700 US.

Right now I am trying to decide between:

NEC P232W-BK
or
Eizo EV2436W with EasyPIX color matching

I will be calibrating with a Spyder Elite 4 and will be using the display for still photography (primarily beauty and swimwear photos)

Does anyone have any experience with these models or perhaps some other suggestions that I have not considered yet? Thanks in advance for the advice.


just $50 move over your numbers will buy you NEC P242W-BK

 17 
 on: November 22, 2014, 11:27:45 PM 
Started by BobDavid - Last post by BobDavid
Tampa Bay, Florida USA. They are 120V.

 18 
 on: November 22, 2014, 11:19:39 PM 
Started by macguiver - Last post by Colorwave
I'd say your chances are quite good that all that is wrong is you have a bad printhead.  FWIW: HP recommends blotting, not wiping with a coffee filter moistened with distilled water.  The ink nozzles are unfathomably small, and easily plugged by things dragging across them.  I use Windex as a second step if needed.  In most cases, though, it's best to not spend too much time with the printheads and to just replace them.

 19 
 on: November 22, 2014, 10:31:01 PM 
Started by dreed - Last post by LesPalenik
The easiest way to avoid those missing segments is to use an automated pano gear, like Gigapan or Seitz.
Not only they eliminate any such mishap, but they are also very precise and fast, and can sometimes save a few frames by shooting fewer segments than it is possible by using a manual method.

 20 
 on: November 22, 2014, 10:25:57 PM 
Started by M+D - Last post by M+D
I am interested in upgrading my display and my main priorities are uniformity and color consistency.  While I would love to go all in for a state of the art display, the budget is simply not there right now.  My plan is to purchase a smaller display (23 or 24) in order to get the quality I want and stay within budget.
I am looking to spend between $400-700 US.

Right now I am trying to decide between:

NEC P232W-BK
or
Eizo EV2436W with EasyPIX color matching

I will be calibrating with a Spyder Elite 4 and will be using the display for still photography (primarily beauty and swimwear photos)

Does anyone have any experience with these models or perhaps some other suggestions that I have not considered yet? Thanks in advance for the advice.

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