Ad
Ad
Ad
Pages: « 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10 »
 21 
 on: April 22, 2014, 10:35:59 PM 
Started by donaldt - Last post by donaldt
bump
offers welcomed

 22 
 on: April 22, 2014, 10:27:12 PM 
Started by Jimmy D Uptain - Last post by Jimmy D Uptain
As y'all may know, my gear was stolen.
I decided to replace the D1's with B1's and eat the difference.
Now that I no longer have a need for my BatPac, it's time to find a home for it.
I prefer a relatively local sale as shipping won't be as fun as a road trip. I will ship if need be, but only in the States.
BTW, I'm from Birmingham, Al
I replaced the battery a short while ago and to be honest, It was probably due to not using it enough.
I'm a non pro so it hasn't been through the ringer.
I'm asking $1000.00 for it.
Its also been posted at the Nikon Cafe.
If I don't get any bites, It'll just go up on Ebay
Thanks for looking.
Here's a couple of pics: (Forgive the sensor dust, I didn't realize it was that bad)


 23 
 on: April 22, 2014, 10:24:19 PM 
Started by KPV - Last post by Steve Hendrix
Hi Guys,
I have a quick question after some unexpected performance at a shoot today.  I had to shoot the complete staff at a dental office.  I was using on location studio lighting and tethered to Capture One with USB3.
I use the back button focus on my Canon 1Dx routinely.  It allows me to focus separately from the shutter button and then grab the decisive moment at the instant I need to without waiting for the camera's autofocus to grab focus and allow a shutter release.  It is a wonderful way of working and I have used it for the last 5 years.  I had my Mamiya 645DF+ set to this functionality as well.  In other words, I changed CF9 to 1 and CF12 to 1.  This allowed me to use back button focus.  I don't recall any issues with it.  However, last night I updated my camera body firmware and digital back firmware to the latest versions from Mamiya and Leaf and when I used the camera today something odd occurred.
I would achieve focus with the back button.  Ok, good.  I would get the double beep focus confirmation.  Then, when I wanted to press the shutter button to grab the shot, it would refocus with the shutter button press!  What the heck??!!  This turned into a big problem.  As the M645DF+ has only three focus points, and basically requires a "focus and recompose" methodology, I would get great focus on my subject's eye, slightly recompose and press the shutter to find the camera trying to refocus on the neck or chest area after the recomposition.  Ugh!
Am I missing something here?  Is this my own short sightedness or is this a result of a glitch in the latest firmware?
Thanks in advance,
Ken


Hi Ken -

It's a multistep process to get this the way you like.

This will get you fixed up:

https://captureintegration.com/rear-button-focus-only-on-df-body/


Steve Hendrix
Capture Integration

 24 
 on: April 22, 2014, 10:11:52 PM 
Started by mironovd - Last post by Alexey1
How much they want for this upgrade?  I have a brand new H2F for this upgrade)))

 25 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:44:06 PM 
Started by chiek - Last post by chiek
Masterly done!

Thanks,  Wink

2nd test video from youtube
Olympus OM 35mm shift lens test
http://youtu.be/W0_L-yD0Kms

EARLY BIRD SPECIAL
starting US$699

http://chiek.co.kr/6807

 26 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:44:01 PM 
Started by chuckn - Last post by degrub
I like the echos of pattern between the sand, grass, and clouds. B&W works for me. How did it look in color ?
You must have worked hard to find an unspoiled by humans dune.
Frank

 27 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:27:30 PM 
Started by ron_hiner - Last post by ron_hiner
my first print is rolling out of my brand spanking new 3880... beautiful!  Thanks to all for the advice!   

 28 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:25:04 PM 
Started by markadams99 - Last post by markadams99
Winter shot - snow looks dingy grey, not "snow" white (I know snow isn't always white - I live in Canada!). It looks like "processed grey", though, and not a natural shadow grey. In fact, it appears the highlight parts of the snow are grey.

Good point. Thanks.

 29 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:20:49 PM 
Started by markadams99 - Last post by ehackett
Great!  Can't wait for summer...and fall.

 30 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:19:40 PM 
Started by Atina - Last post by eronald
Timothy,

 Thank you.


Edmund

For what it is worth to this discussion, here is a post I made on another board comparing the CCD an CMOS in the Hasselblad offerings. 

I've been asked for some comparisons between the H4D-60 and the H5D-50c.  These first three pairs were shot at ISO 100 (which is base ISO for the H5D-50c; base for the H4D-60 is ISO50).  All were shot  within a minute of each other, and from the same stationary tripod.  These are all straight out of LR5 with no corrections or sharpening. 

With the HC 100
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23138385/h4d60_iso100_f11_45th.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23138385/h5d50c_iso100_f11_40th.jpg

With HC 50 II
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23138385/h4d60_iso100_f8_15th.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23138385/h5d50c_iso100_f8_15th.jpg

With HC 50 II
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23138385/h4d60_iso100_f8_125th.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23138385/h5d50c_iso100_f8_125th.jpg

When I first used the new camera I had the impression that the colors were hotter--a little more saturated and vibrant--than my older rig, but this isn't evident when you compare them side by side at ISO100.  The H4D-60 exposes 2/3 of a stop higher than the H5D-50c across all settings, but this is probably due to normal camera variation.  I'll be damned if I can tell any difference in resolution or sharpness between these two cameras.   The major differences are, of course, the crop factor and the ability of the H5D-50c to sing at higher ISOs. 

I'll continue to posts comparisons, next at higher ISO and faces. 

Pages: « 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10 »
Ad
Ad
Ad