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 on: Today at 09:52:58 AM 
Started by BernardLanguillier - Last post by langier
This is what I use. It's low temp and with both prints and post-coated canvas is easy though it takes several minutes to bond.

I think the press I use is about 160-degrees and usually it takes about five minutes to get it to stick properly.

Several years ago, I needed a way to mount several hundred large canvas prints, up to 40x60, and this is what I chose. It's fast and easy and no cutting of the tissue, thus no chaff spoiling the mounting. The project has been in place more than three years and there are no issues.

In any case, see if your local framer has some of the boards that you could test on your own.

 on: Today at 09:50:45 AM 
Started by MattNQ - Last post by stamper
Personally I would leave the blacks and shadows alone. Instead concentrate on brightening the mid tones which imo should be lighter, thus giving you more contrast.

 on: Today at 09:50:45 AM 
Started by Robert Boire - Last post by digitaldog
Actually, if white balance is the only thing you need, a SpyderCube can be enough.
He needs a DNG camera profile!
So it will correct the color input of your camera to match the colors in real life.

Ah, no, not really.

 on: Today at 09:47:29 AM 
Started by graphius - Last post by HSway
Great observations and points in the article. And great images.

 on: Today at 09:45:29 AM 
Started by Dan Wells - Last post by Mark Lindquist
The HP's are amazing machines and it is somewhat a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of thing.

As Robert Ardill posted, reliability is the main issue. 

HP could improve the following on Z3100 and Z3200 machines:

Create a better carriage head belt system that can be EASILY repaired without taking the entire machine apart.
(It's like having to pull the motor to change the oil, in a car, for goodness sakes...)

They could improve sensor switches with more robust parts.

They could theoretically make a stronger more capable cutter (although hand cutting canvas is fine with me)

They could easily incorporate a scanner into the current system and add it as an option.  (If I'm not mistaken, the Photo Spectrometer already scans targets...)

They could improve sheet handling capabilities by including some kind of sled for smaller paper sizes.
(This would be a biggy for me, since the Z3200 prints on smaller format papers incredibly well, but loading them is a real PITA.)

It would be nice to have a diagnostic tool that could compare custom profiles that have been made to see which ones are superior.

But other than the MAJOR issue of replacing the belt, the rest would be more gravy for a machine and system that is awesome as it stands.

I certainly hope HP's interest in this market becomes reinvigorated - it is one the best printers out there, IMO.


 on: Today at 09:43:17 AM 
Started by MrIconoclast - Last post by MrIconoclast
Thanks. Those are all good suggestions. 

Superduper is making my bootbable backup at this time.

 on: Today at 09:35:34 AM 
Started by Wolven - Last post by Chris Livsey

See if the clock date is still working.


My P20 if left without a battery "forgets" the time and needs a reset. If I change batteries I don't loose the time. I have not taken the trouble to quantify how long it takes to loose the time. Is this know , hence my how?

Is it wise if not using the back for say a week to leave the battery in or remove it?
( I am aware of the advice is to remove it if sending it by post etc but is that for fire risk?)

 on: Today at 09:26:32 AM 
Started by Dan Wells - Last post by Robert Ardill

About gloss differential there is no possible argument. Try any luster/semi-gloss paper and the Vivera+gloss enhancer will win easily. I mean, there is *no* competition.
Canon and Epson managed a quite good performance on glossy papers, their pigments managed to retain the glossiness of the paper and so there is no much difference between printed and unprinted areas, but on papers where the unprinted area looks more matte than the printed area, only a gloss enhancer can do the trick.

Having just changed from a Z3100 to an iPF6400 I can confidently second that.  The gloss enhancer is really fantastic for gloss differential.

I wonder if there is a spray, like the Lyson Print Guard perhaps, that would have the same effect as the HP gloss enhancer?  And at the same time provide additional protection to the print.

In reply to the OP, my biggest wish is reliability, reliability, reliability!  I think the current printers are fantastic, but all you have to do is to read some of the posts on this forum to see that there are still some big-time reliability problems with things like head clogs on the Epsons.  If I was Epson I would forget about going further down the pico-litre route and concentrate on fixing the head clogs (having had 2 Epsons in the past, I didn't even consider an Epson this time round for this reason alone).  I now find out that with Canon I may have to replace the print heads at a cost of nearly $1000 every year: that should not be acceptable to us.  With HP the paper feed was a major pain in the butt, IMO, but my Z3100 was certainly an amazingly reliable machine (I would have bought a Z3200 if I hadn't had concerns that HP might drop that product line).


 on: Today at 09:19:03 AM 
Started by Harlem22 - Last post by deejjjaaaa
The distinction between gender and sex has absolutely nothing to do with being left-wing or right-wing. From the World Health Organization:

in RSL's mind (I bet) the mere reference to "World"-anything to substantiate your opinion qualifies you as a left-winger...

 on: Today at 09:15:14 AM 
Started by Robert Boire - Last post by rubencarmona
Actually, if white balance is the only thing you need, a SpyderCube can be enough. It will last longer than a grey card, given that it's not out of carton but of pigmented synthetics. So even if you scratch it, the grey, black and white will stay neutral.

So the Spydercube is to correct the color temperature...

Tools like color checker and spydercheckr will calibrate the colors your camera interprets. So it will correct the color input of your camera to match the colors in real life. Thanks to the color patches as reference. Here both products do the same good work. It's just different methods. One is creating dng profiles, the other one is creating a preset to correct the colors in the raw metadata.

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