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 51 
 on: November 22, 2014, 04:16:08 PM 
Started by rollsman44 - Last post by rollsman44
 Thank you all. 

 52 
 on: November 22, 2014, 04:14:52 PM 
Started by rollsman44 - Last post by rollsman44
Just curious to see if I was to sell it how much can I ask for it. The Body has 42,000 actuations, Body and Prism in good condition. The back shows some wear on the left side but not the LCD and HC 80mm f2.8 lens in very good condition. I have the box and cables and an Extra Battery Pack and charger.
   Also. Like New HC 35mm lens with Shade and caps.

   Thank you very much. I would like to sell it as a Kit.( The Body and the 80mm Lens)

 53 
 on: November 22, 2014, 04:14:22 PM 
Started by jerome_m - Last post by Fine_Art
in other words (do I have your attention B ill?)... to a photo-grapher, what SNR or DR a sensor captures is useless... It's what's left to him after processing that he cares (the latitude that affects the difference between capture and processing and what's left for the PHOTO-graph).... But that's a photo-grapher's way of thinking! ...understand B ill? You better, because there won't be anymore posts from me... No reason to argue on simple logic... that only concerns photo-graphers.


Maybe you should change your name to Animus.

 54 
 on: November 22, 2014, 04:07:10 PM 
Started by jerome_m - Last post by Fine_Art
That is quite correct. Roger Clark explains this in some detail using the concept of Etendue (sounds like a French word, maintaining the relationship with DXO). The larger sensor goes with a larger lens.

Bill

Thanks for the link Bill, it is a good article as usual on that site. Roger is a gifted explainer.

That reminds me of a recent discussion in another thread about f ratio being the base constant vs angle of view with lens diameter, for determining a good pixel size.


 55 
 on: November 22, 2014, 04:01:14 PM 
Started by JRSmit - Last post by digitaldog
I want someone to show how this is fixed with an ICC profile with an A/B demo. What does this look like?
It's fixed using a number of options (OBA correction in ColorAnt, the OBA system by X-rite etc). You want me to show you? Come on down, bring your check book, I'll show you. Or you can read the manuals which should be online (ColorAnt is). Or you could just build two profiles each way and view the results from a good reference image under any number of light sources. What does the fix look like? Usually a bit better! Lack of a possible color cast. Build a profile without OBA, print a reference image, VIEW IT under the illuminant. If it's got OBAs that cause a color shift, fix it using the tools available.

This isn't a big issue Tim! I've built hundreds upon hundreds of profiles plus a group for Epson (Exhibition Fiber) so perhaps thousands of people have used those profiles without a lick of OBA compensation. The net isn't filled with Epson users complaining but none the less, the best approach is to use papers without OBA's! And OBA's have negative consequences above and beyond how they appear, they can cause issues in terms of the archival properties and qualities of the print (they change over time). They ain't good Tim! 

We have a system even without OBA's that assume D50 viewing conditions and lots of folks don't view their prints that way. The fix? Like OBA, we measure the light and use that inside the profile instead of the D50 assumption. It helps but like OBA, it's fixing a moving target and the end results are usually subtle. Just as my client with the HUGE OBA paper reported when viewing two prints made from two different profiles.

 56 
 on: November 22, 2014, 04:00:02 PM 
Started by Sharon Van Lieu - Last post by Sharon Van Lieu
I really like the ease of creating a collection that will automatically sync with my ipad, but what I can't figure out is how to make that photo something smaller than the original size. I don't really need 5600 px wide photos on the ipad. Is there anyway to decrease the size easily within lightroom 5.7?

Thanks

 57 
 on: November 22, 2014, 03:49:38 PM 
Started by Carsten W - Last post by JV
Two older threads on the Hy6 and its glass:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=76060.msg615365#msg615365
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=82794.msg668848#msg668848

The first one is really on the Pentax 645D lenses but at the end of page one lacunapratum does a very good job IMO on comparing the glass of the two systems and highlighting which lenses shine on the Hy6.

The second thread is on using PQS glass on the Hy6 with shutter speeds of 1/1000.

You might have already found these threads, if not they are worthwhile reading IMO. 

 58 
 on: November 22, 2014, 03:44:23 PM 
Started by ripgriffith - Last post by Telecaster
And your point would be? I hate to be snippy, but the photograph isn't a particularly good example of "getting quite good at framing with the camera at chin/neck level".

 Cheesy  I quite like it.

-Dave-

 59 
 on: November 22, 2014, 03:39:34 PM 
Started by ripgriffith - Last post by Telecaster
The GX7's cramped right rear—too many buttons in too small an area—is my one beef with the camera. I have a similar complaint about my car's steering wheel…I'm forever switching things on/off or changing display setups by mistake in the winter while driving with gloves on. Featuritis degrading ergonomics.

-Dave-

 60 
 on: November 22, 2014, 03:37:26 PM 
Started by jerome_m - Last post by Theodoros
in other words (do I have your attention B ill?)... to a photo-grapher, what SNR or DR a sensor captures is useless... It's what's left to him after processing that he cares (the latitude that affects the difference between capture and processing and what's left for the PHOTO-graph).... But that's a photo-grapher's way of thinking! ...understand B ill? You better, because there won't be anymore posts from me... No reason to argue on simple logic... that only concerns photo-graphers.

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