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 on: Today at 11:45:54 AM 
Started by felix5616 - Last post by TylerB
in my experience and also my impressions from anecdotal information from cohorts and forums, I'd highly recommend a used or refurbed 7880. Of all the LF Epsons I've owned for either OEM inks or Cone, it just works day in and day out, and my experiences with it seems consistent with others. Jon was even buying and warehousing x880s before Epson discontinued and sold out. Reports about x890s, and x900s is less encouraging.
You'll need an 8 ink printer, so a 7600 would be less than ideal though you could probably find one for all but free. They are getting pretty old though, so condition may be an issue, on the other hand they are easy to work on. So the oldest printer appropriate would be the 7800, a used one should be very affordable, and they work well. My 9800 was ok, given the usual Epson bad days. The x880s though, though very similar, seems to have way less bad days, mine, essentially none year after year. Though very similar, the teflon coating of the heads and whatever small changes made effected ink delivery performance in a significant manner. A 7880 should be reasonably priced used or refurbed.
Things changed worth the x890s, the pressure system and ink path becomes more complex, reflecting the new approach committed to in the x900s, and seems to have more associated complaints. Still, I'm sure many work well and in would be appropriate for the setup.
Personally, I'd stay away from a 7900 because compared to the older models, there are more reported ink delivery problems. On the other hand, if you want to wait a bit, Cone is coming out with a setup for the x900s in 2015 utilizing the additional ink sets that will offer more hue flexibility.
Hope that helps

 on: Today at 11:45:22 AM 
Started by Piboy - Last post by wildstork
I fully agree with you, Andrew.  Anyone can change their mind.  That's not the issue.  
The anonymity of forums allows some to hurl insults whenever their sense of self righteousness is offended.  I just cited John's posts as examples.  
Many of his earlier forum posts are replete with insults to Bernard, Trevarthan, powerslave 12r, jjj, Torbjorn, yourself and others... whenever they express an opinion that is contrary to his own.  This goes to the issue of decorum: "behavior in keeping with good taste and propriety."  
There's no need to insult someone you disagree with on a public forum.  That is the point of my last post.  
I fail to see any relationship with your term "politburo"... unless you feel that accountability is pedestrian.
And for someone who often asks for "evidence"... I simply quoted his own words to preempt any request for examples.

 on: Today at 11:39:41 AM 
Started by Piboy - Last post by Slobodan Blagojevic
...This is an internet forum, not the politburo...

Amen, brother!

Besides, Jack is one of the few members that I recall being able to cede a point in a gentlemanly fashion. This is not to say that he is in this case, as I happen to agree with him 100% that a lot of comments about Lik stem from simple jealousy and whining. Again, this is not to say that there are no (or should't be) negative comments about Lik that seem well reasoned and justified.

 on: Today at 11:33:41 AM 
Started by Piboy - Last post by Slobodan Blagojevic
I am sure Jack is going to explain it better than me, but I do not see any contradiction in what he wrote now and then, nor the reason to apologize. In the earlier post he wrote about Lik's success side, in the latest one about artistic side. Even in the first post Jack said if true, false sale is not cool.

 on: Today at 11:28:13 AM 
Started by Rajan Parrikar - Last post by BartvanderWolf
Do you use typically use a standard setting in InFocus, or do you adjust the sliders substantially every time to suit the particular image? If you typically use a standard setting, do you mind sharing what it is? I have practically no experience with InFocus, and your observation piqued my interest. However I'm struggling to get it to produce output comparable to Piccure+. It doesn't help that there are 6 values and 1 setting to manipulate! Piccure+ is simpler in this respect.

Hi Damon,

I'll try and be relatively brief, in order not to get too much off-topic. Infocus is a tool that addresses sharpening of blurred image content, although since it's in its first version (sofar) there are some things that could be improved.

Infocus first addresses what we could call Capture sharpening with the controls of its Deblur panel. This will only allow to restore detail from  image content that got blurred during Capture. If one attempts to do more (Creative sharpening of certain feature sizes), then artifacts will quickly start spoiling the result. It allows to address several different types of blur, Generic / Out-of-Focus / Straight motion / Unknown, each having a specific type of Point-Spread- Function (PSF) to be used in reversing the effect. Generic and Unknown are the common types to use on normal images that have some optical blur, and all images have at least that.

The Blur radius setting is the most important, it should not be set too high. I would rather err on the safe side than introduce artifacts that are much harder to deal with in further post-processing steps. Important to understand is that optimal values for well focused images with good lenses in the Generic setting, will vary with the aperture value used. I typically encounter values between 0.6 to 0.9 for my high quality lenses when used at moderate Aperture values on my camera which has an Optical Low-pass Filter. Cameras without an OLPF tend to produce aliasing artifacts that hinder proper Capture sharpening, so relatively low values (0.5-0.7) may need to be used in that case. The Unknown/Estimate method does well when used on a region of well focused detail, and a radius of more than 1 or 2 is rarely needed.

The use of very narrow apertures (the definition of 'narrow' depends a bit on sensel pitch), will justify using somewhat larger radius values.

Since Infocus uses a relatively aggressive type of deconvolution algorithm, the 'Edge-softness' and 'Suppress Artifacts' sliders will have to be used to taste, in order to avoid ringing, stairstepping, and halo artifacts.

Now, after the inherent sharpness has been restored with the Deblur panel settings, we can add a bit of more traditional (acutance) sharpening with the Sharpen panel. Since the Deblur operation reduced the radius of residual blur, it's common to use a small(er) radius here, unless one wishes to enhance some larger detail sizes. The Micro-contrast control adjusts the local contrast of the smallest detail, which can counteract the effects of veiling glare, and boost the overall impression of sharpness.

Since the current version of Infocus has no controls for addressing sharpness fall-off towards the corners of the image, one could produce two versions of the same image (assuming well focused image content), one sharpened for the center, and one sharpened for the corners, and blend them with a radial gradient mask in e.g. Photoshop.

Infocus requires a lot of tweaking for the optimal results, although user made generic presets can help to get the proper basic settings to something generically usable. One could for instance make defaults for various aperture settings, to counteract different levels of diffraction blur, or images that are downsampled (with a certain algorithm) for web-publishing.

Piccure+ on the other hand attempts to analyze the image content and automatically determine the optimal type of PSF to use (optionally helped by user input about where to sample in the image), and one just has to adjust the strength of the correction. Noise is not helpful, neither for the analysis, nor for the restoration, although its Noise suppression control does help.


 on: Today at 11:25:50 AM 
Started by stockjock - Last post by mstevensphoto
they are phenomenal printers at great prices right now. run away from that epson. I highly recommend Shades of Paper or It Supplies. both fabulous companies to deal with and both will get you the best price out there.

 on: Today at 11:24:14 AM 
Started by mstevensphoto - Last post by mstevensphoto
awesome replies so far, very helpful. thanks!

I certainly love the real world info as opposed to the pixel peeping measurement. I have a retoucher friend who always says "if you can't see it, it's not there." if it looks and feels like I want I don't really care what the math says.

a few thoughts on reading the info. Most of the non-auto focus time things aren't going to be an issue. since I'm in a portrait studio scenario the client never gets to see what I do until it's retouched and ready to present. I also hate hate hate how digital has become a barrier between client and subject and I strictly limit my chomping. I'm interacting with them, not my camera screen. with little moving people either I got it or I didn't. that exact moment isn't re-creatable (close but not exact) so that is one reason I need quick, reliable auto focus. with my DSLR I never chimp for focus, even at f2.2 and I'm very rarely disappointed after the fact.

capture one would be a huge advantage, it's great stuff. similarly leaf shutter lenses. Do those of you with the 645z find that 1/125 is the true limit for your studio flash? I've had plenty of cameras that say 1/200th and you realize that 1/160th is a better upper end. 1/125th is really slow for ambient+flash situations.

the color of the mamiya is a good point, how do the pentax users find it in the real world?

 on: Today at 11:15:18 AM 
Started by Jeff-Grant - Last post by AFairley
Or multiple light sources (classic copying setup with 2 lights at 45 degrees)?

 on: Today at 11:13:28 AM 
Started by Hening Bettermann - Last post by AFairley
Just use whatever distance lets you cover the frame with 3 or 5 images across (with some overlap), just make sure that the grid size you use is such that the squares are 20-40 pixels in the files.  The program is not at all finicky.

 on: Today at 11:03:58 AM 
Started by Chris Calohan - Last post by Eric Myrvaagnes
Lovely shot, Chris.
How do you get so close without spooking him?

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