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Author Topic: Uncurling roll paper  (Read 12484 times)
Digi-T
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« on: April 06, 2006, 05:39:05 PM »
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Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on uncurling roll paper after it has been printed on? I like using this type of paper but trying to flatten it out so I can work with the prints easier is a pain in the butt. My methods of laying something big and heavy on the prints is only partially effective. I'm not too worried about prints that I matt and frame because the matt and frame takes care of the curling but it is the prints that I sell unmatted that I am concerned about. I don't see the customer being too pleased trying to handle and view a print that has a curl to it. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Tim
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eleanorbrown
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« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2006, 06:23:36 PM »
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Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on uncurling roll paper after it has been printed on? I like using this type of paper but trying to flatten it out so I can work with the prints easier is a pain in the butt. My methods of laying something big and heavy on the prints is only partially effective. I'm not too worried about prints that I matt and frame because the matt and frame takes care of the curling but it is the prints that I sell unmatted that I am concerned about. I don't see the customer being too pleased trying to handle and view a print that has a curl to it. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Tim
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=62043\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


get a D Roller from inkjetart.com or shadesofpaper.com.  works very well. I use mine daily. eleanor
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Digi-T
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« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2006, 06:36:08 PM »
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get a D Roller from inkjetart.com or shadesofpaper.com.  works very well. I use mine daily. eleanor
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Thanks for the link. It looks like a great system but I guess it should be at that price.    Maybe I will try to amke my own version of that roller, since I can't afford that kind of money just yet.

T
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Tim Gray
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« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2006, 06:36:54 PM »
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I've made my own and it works fine...
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kbolin
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« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2006, 07:46:23 PM »
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Great tip and I too will be making my own... why not if you can save $260 and put that torwards some other piece of photography gear.  
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mdijb
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« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2006, 03:56:34 PM »
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Great tip and I too will be making my own... why not if you can save $260 and put that torwards some other piece of photography gear.   
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I also made my own easily using a 3" mailing tube and insert the print between two sheets of acid free paper and it works well.

MDIJB
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« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2006, 04:58:37 PM »
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MDIJB: alternate approach: go to a cloth store, buy 3 yards of heavy canvas, tape one end of the canvas to the 3" tube, roll a yard of the canvas around the tube, insert prints, roll the rest of the canvas around prints and tube, allow to set.  

Courtesy Greg E., DFA.
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photopat
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« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2007, 01:41:23 AM »
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Since I realised that its going to be hard to get my favorite papers in 17"x25 cut sheets.

I have done alot of searching on the web on this subject ,and I have tried alot of designs of (my own made) "d-rollers".
But whatever I do I fail at this.

Especially with Innovas new FibaPrint Ultra Smooth Gloss 285 gms which I really love.

All designs are based on 3" tubes and I always end upp with some dents on the paper  where the beginning of the paper meets the surface  of the paper when rolled.( these new glossy fine art papers are really sensitive ).

I also have to leave the paper in the deroller for over 2 1/2 h to get it flat enough to print through my 3800.

But not flat enough for selling unmatted prints.

Does anybody have experience with uncurling Crane's silver Rag and Innovas glossy Fine art papers that can give me some advice on how to handle the curl on these papers ?

Thanks Patrick.
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Brian Gilkes
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« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2007, 04:49:03 AM »
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I find Crane papers  usually flatten OK if left for a while. Higher humidity helps. I do notice that narrower rolls have more problems but I am mainly using 44". Back rolling on a 3" core works but you have to be very careful of paper will kink. I use acid free tissue on the paper and on the core as I roll too.
Hahnemuele papers seem to flatten a little more easily and have no experience with Innova. Crane papers have up to 6 coats to stop penetration and hold the ink. That makes them stiff and contributes to their roll inertia. The old photo papers were worse.
Cheers,
Brian
www.pharoseditions.com.au
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picnic
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« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2007, 09:45:23 AM »
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Since I realised that its going to be hard to get my favorite papers in 17"x25 cut sheets.

I have done alot of searching on the web on this subject ,and I have tried alot of designs of (my own made) "d-rollers".
But whatever I do I fail at this.

Especially with Innovas new FibaPrint Ultra Smooth Gloss 285 gms which I really love.

All designs are based on 3" tubes and I always end upp with some dents on the paper  where the beginning of the paper meets the surface  of the paper when rolled.( these new glossy fine art papers are really sensitive ).

I also have to leave the paper in the deroller for over 2 1/2 h to get it flat enough to print through my 3800.

But not flat enough for selling unmatted prints.

Does anybody have experience with uncurling Crane's silver Rag and Innovas glossy Fine art papers that can give me some advice on how to handle the curl on these papers ?

Thanks Patrick.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=104958\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I wondered about that.  I was going to buy the Innova also--and I use my own homemade roller which works fine for luster paper.  I had reservations about the heavier weight papers.  Consequently I am either not going to buy the Innova or will buy the 17 x 22 sheets and crop in camera to 4 x 5 format for future prints--and cut the 17 x 22 to the other sizes I need.  I am seriously thinking of buying one of the Hawk's Mt. 17 x 25 Condor (natural w/o OBA or Britewhite) fine art paper.  Its a lovely paper--priced well.  In the past I've used HPR or Epson FAV for up to 13 x 19.  I just don't think that I will use the D roller enough to warrant that cost so will just adjust to 16 x 20 prints if I go to the Innova Semimatte (which I like a lot).

Diane
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photopat
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« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2007, 12:01:13 PM »
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Picnic wrote:
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I was going to buy the Innova also--and I use my own homemade roller which works fine for luster paper. I had reservations about the heavier weight papers. Consequently I am either not going to buy the Innova or will buy the 17 x 22 sheets and crop in camera to 4 x 5 format for future prints--and cut the 17 x 22 to the other sizes I need.
The semi good thig is that Innova sell their papers in European standard sizes  in Europe ( where I live).
So the paper is avaliable in A2 (420mmx594mm or 16,5"x 23,4"). But then I can "only print  aprox 15"x22,5" if I want no crop of the image ( instead of my desiered 16"x24" )

So I guess It's almost the size I want...I just want the 17"x25"  size

I have made a new design of my deroller and are trying it atm...but I guess the  paper need to be in it atleast 3h to uncurl enough..quite a timeconsuming operation...and I have a hard time thinking a De-roller from Bienfang would do it any faster...( since I belive they have a 3" roll aswell )

Brian Gilkes wrote:
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The old photo papers were worse.
Yea but Then you just put them in a  ( dont know the english word) heat press for a couple of min and they where fine
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richardhagen
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« Reply #11 on: January 11, 2008, 11:17:48 PM »
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Keeping my prints flat is driving me to distraction. I've also tried to use a couple of home-made thigamagigs - but to no avail. So, I think I'm going to spring for the Bienfang D-Roller.

I use Hahnemuhle 24" roll paper. Which model D-Roller would be appropriate for rolls of this width? I assume I would use the 24" wide model.

Any further thoughts or comments (other than the fact that it is very $$) on the use. quality, or whatever of this product?

Richard
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Gary Brook
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« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2008, 04:41:40 AM »
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Hi all,

for the last couple of years I've been dealing with this simply by reverse rolling the 24" rolls that I have bought and leaving them to take a new set for a couple of weeks.  After that I simply roll them out and cut to length, usually 18x24, and they stay flat.  I have used this with HP Premium Plus Photo Stain/Gloss and Epson Premium Lustre 260 successfully over several rolls.  5 days doesn't seem to be enough and fouir weeks or longer just creates a reverse curl version of the original problem.  Don't know how you'd go with HPR 308 or similar but it works for me and is cheaper than buying a d-roller or whatever.  Cheers,

Gary.
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Craig Murphy
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« Reply #13 on: January 12, 2008, 09:22:30 AM »
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I put prints in my vacu-press.  Four minutes, 180 degrees.  Flattens anything.
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CMurph
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« Reply #14 on: January 12, 2008, 10:07:30 AM »
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Richard, I use the 24" D-roller for my 24" roll papers (Photo Rag, Ultrasmooth FA). It's a perfect match. Flat prints in less than a minute, with no hassle, no paper markings, no worries, etc. (due to the materials and design used). Considering what it does for me, it was one of my best gear purchases last year.

Shades of Paper also offers a nice discount on roll paper if you buy a D-roller.
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richardhagen
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« Reply #15 on: January 12, 2008, 11:19:26 AM »
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At least in my case, I think it pays to get the d-roller. I'm tired of using makeshift solutions that take long to work - if it works at all - and is "messy" and time consuming to use. Thank you JesseSpeer for confirming my thoughts on size and the buying tip re: Shades of Paper.

Richard
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rdonson
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« Reply #16 on: January 12, 2008, 12:47:56 PM »
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De-roller for me as well.  Its extremely well made, works all the time and looks like it will outlast me on this planet.
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[span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'][span style='font-family:Arial'][span style='font-family:Geneva'][span style='font-size:8pt;line-height:100%']Regards,
Ron[/span][/span][/span][/span]
neoprinter
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« Reply #17 on: January 17, 2008, 08:54:56 PM »
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D-Roller is a hell of a waste of money, when all you have to use is the end of a roll of cheap paper, like Epson Enhanced Matte (or whatever they're calling it these days).  Also, being rolled up in paper helps to wick the humectant out of the image, which is necessary if you're going to be framing behind glass.
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rdonson
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« Reply #18 on: January 18, 2008, 07:22:29 AM »
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Also, being rolled up in paper helps to wick the humectant out of the image, which is necessary if you're going to be framing behind glass.
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I always let my prints dry for a day or two before using the de-roller.
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[span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'][span style='font-family:Arial'][span style='font-family:Geneva'][span style='font-size:8pt;line-height:100%']Regards,
Ron[/span][/span][/span][/span]
Adam L
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« Reply #19 on: January 18, 2008, 08:51:31 AM »
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Has anyone tried to use a window blind for this task?  As I watched the video journal demonstration that thought jumped into my head.
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"That's a lot of money to move a few pixels around"
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