Your right, I have Photoshop CS2 but until know I am not very familiar with RAW image shooting and image processing. The same is true for using Adobe RGB or sRGB. I don't have a Photo printer yet, so I depend on a store that basically only processes sRGB.
...by the way, does RAW shooting increase the dynamic range (a little) ? During daytime, I continously have to pay attention, not to get blown out highlights.
Even though you do not yet have a photo printer, if you think that sometime later you will buy one, and if you intend to print some of the images you are now making, it would be advantageous to keep them in a format that will give you the potential for maximum quality at that time. As well, it is not clear that the service where you get your pictures printed is using a technology whose colour space mimics the size and shape of sRGB, therefore it is likely preferable to use RGB. Your camera can make both RAW and JPEG files simultaneously, so even if you do nothing with the RAW captures yet, you can save them.
One of the areas where a RAW capture can be advantageous is for exposure correction. To some extent the RAW converter in Photoshop CS2 can "correct" blown highlights by reducing exposure in the converter before converting the RAW file to a normal TIFF or PSD file. The best however is to try to avoid blown highlights by making your exposures with the histogram values pushed up as close to the right-side end of the scale without clipping. You can see whether you've succeeded with this immediately after the image is processed by examining the histogram. If you have blown highlights or the exposure is positioned further down the scale than it can be without clipping, you can make exposure compensation adjustments and retake the picture. There is a considerable amount of material on this website about optimizing digital exposure (essays and tutorials). Bruce Fraser has written a very good, compact book on using Adobe Camera Raw which would be worthwhile reading.