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Author Topic: what r the ways todo archi/landscape with digiback  (Read 4983 times)
rueyloon
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« on: August 25, 2006, 01:52:09 PM »
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hello

hi, what are the options for using a MF back to do architecture/landscape type of shoot. I have a kodak pro back with a mamiya AFD and is quite limited by the lens. I am just reading into cambo and horseman and alpa, can anyone share your experience with using those specialized cameras ? lens options ?

cheers and thanks
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mkravit
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« Reply #1 on: August 27, 2006, 08:00:41 PM »
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hello

hi, what are the options for using a MF back to do architecture/landscape type of shoot. I have a kodak pro back with a mamiya AFD and is quite limited by the lens. I am just reading into cambo and horseman and alpa, can anyone share your experience with using those specialized cameras ? lens options ?

cheers and thanks
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=74466\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I cuurently shoot an Aptus 75 on an Alpa 12 SWA for my architecture work. I use  Schneider 24, 35 and 47mm Digitar lenses.  This combination is light weight, easy to use and gives me 99% of what I need for architecture. I primarily use rise/fall, the ALPA does not have shift or swing.

One word of advice, focussing a MFDB with a bellows on a ground glass is VERY tenuous.  It can be done, but id very frustrating and difficult.

 That is why I went to the ALPA with helical mount Digitar lenses.

The results are outstanding.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2006, 08:01:26 PM by mkravit » Logged
Eric Zepeda
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« Reply #2 on: August 27, 2006, 09:36:51 PM »
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I've been using the Cambo Wide DS with the 35 Digitar and a P25 and am finding it a very fast solution for interior work. As Michael Kravit said, you can use a view camera, but it can be very hard to frame and focus. I'm shooting tethered to a G4 Powerbook on location and have been very pleased with the results.
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Jae_Moon
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« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2006, 09:14:30 AM »
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I have been using Arca-Swiss F69 with P45 since early June. As I have reported in other thread (Focusing Arca F69 with Digital Back, Ground Glass and Fresnel lens combo), I had initial problems of focusing with the factory provided 'fresnel + ground glass.'

However, I have been 110% happy with my setup since I got the ground glass from Maxwell Precision Optics, it provides very bright and tack sharp focusing. I am using 10x loupe for focusing and do not use a dark cloth anymore. I found the screen very evenly and brightly lit for composing and focusing with Schneider Digitar 47, 90 and 210 mm. However, I have to shade the screen with my hands and properly align my eyes when I use 35 mm.  I cannot focus any better even in tethered mode to my laptop. It is absolutely unnecessary to have my DB tethered for focusing purpose.

I am not using a sliding or sliding/stiching back in my setup, so I have an extra step (composing and focusing, then remove the ground glass and mount the DB) but I wouldn't call it either 'hard or tenuous.' Obviously, a view camera setup is bulkier than specialty cameras, such as Cambo Wide or Alpha Swiss, but you have the flexibility of full camera movements. Schneider Digitar lenses; 35, 47, 90 and 210 mm, have the image circle diameters (at f=11) of 90, 113, 90, and 120 mm, respectively. That means each lens can shift 17, 29, 17, 33 mm for P45 (37x49 mm sensor) in horizontal mode, 19, 32, 19, 36 for vertical mode. Arca-Swiss has +/- 30 mm movement in both verical and horizontal direction.

I cannot comment on Architectural application but for for landscape, it is hard to beat the combination of a view camera and a DB . However, the portability is an issue one has to consider since one has to haul it around. My present setup is 'fully assembled vew camera' in a home made box that I carry in a light weight nylon backpack (just under 10#) for hiking or put the box inside Lowepro Phototrekker AW for air travel. The box includes the fully assembled (on a folded rail) with a lens, DB, GG, and cleaning brush/cloth so I can take the camera out and mounted on the tripod in a snap. I carry extra lenses, a light meter and filters in my field jacket, and carry my tripod on shoulder when I hike.

Jae Moon
« Last Edit: August 28, 2006, 03:28:27 PM by Jae_Moon » Logged
rueyloon
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« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2006, 09:54:33 AM »
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thanks for all the replies, this is giving me quite abit of things to think about.

on another note, it is possibel to trigger a pro back on one of those cameras ? so far in my research it seems that only the Hasselblad V mount back works.... right ?

cheers
rgs
rueyloon
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Eric Zepeda
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« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2006, 10:55:58 AM »
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thanks for all the replies, this is giving me quite abit of things to think about.

on another note, it is possibel to trigger a pro back on one of those cameras ? so far in my research it seems that only the Hasselblad V mount back works.... right ?

cheers
rgs
rueyloon
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Not quite sure what you're referring to...most view and specialty cameras need a synch cable between the lens and the back to communicate. Leaf backs only require one shutter press to wake up the back and initate capture. Phase backs have a two step approach that requires one to trip the shutter to "wake-up" the back, and then recock and fire the shutter again for capture within five seconds . Can be a pain, although if you're tethered you can wake up the back by pressing the "capture" button in C1, then firing the shutter just once on the lens.

Don't know that mounts make a difference in this regard. I've used backs in V, H, and Mamiya 645 mounts and they all trigger the same way.
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Lester
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« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2006, 01:53:55 PM »
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On the Phase One P backs, Kapture Group have a wake up cable that you just have to push a button to wake up the back and then you just fire the shutter on the View camera to capture the image or any camera need this type of a system.


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Not quite sure what you're referring to...most view and specialty cameras need a synch cable between the lens and the back to communicate. Leaf backs only require one shutter press to wake up the back and initate capture. Phase backs have a two step approach that requires one to trip the shutter to "wake-up" the back, and then recock and fire the shutter again for capture within five seconds . Can be a pain, although if you're tethered you can wake up the back by pressing the "capture" button in C1, then firing the shutter just once on the lens.

Don't know that mounts make a difference in this regard. I've used backs in V, H, and Mamiya 645 mounts and they all trigger the same way.
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Eric Zepeda
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« Reply #7 on: August 28, 2006, 02:29:26 PM »
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On the Phase One P backs, Kapture Group have a wake up cable that you just have to push a button to wake up the back and then you just fire the shutter on the View camera to capture the image or any camera need this type of a system.
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Very true. At an additional cost of around 300.00 bucks or so...

I have a P25 and it's not that big a deal, but I'm always kinda stoked when I get to work with 'ol one shot' Aptus...
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Lester
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« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2006, 02:06:09 PM »
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I mention Kapture Group because they do make them, I figure out the way it works and made my own for less then $10 for my P25 at that time, now I am using it for my P45. But you did not hear it from me.


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Very true. At an additional cost of around 300.00 bucks or so...

I have a P25 and it's not that big a deal, but I'm always kinda stoked when I get to work with 'ol one shot' Aptus...
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Eric Zepeda
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« Reply #9 on: August 29, 2006, 08:37:21 PM »
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Lester, you have me thinking...and no, I did not hear it from you
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Lester
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« Reply #10 on: August 29, 2006, 11:19:18 PM »
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Eric, you will need the Multi Connector Syne Cable, that suppose to come with the P25 or the P45. It is the cable the connect to the P back and the lens pc.

I wonder why you need to fire the lens shutter to wake up the back?
I wonder why it does not work when you complete the circuit on the connector cable?
I wonder if the metal frame of the View camera is used as a connector? or ground.

I was just wondering.


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Lester, you have me thinking...and no, I did not hear it from you
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rueyloon
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« Reply #11 on: August 30, 2006, 07:10:07 AM »
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does anyone know how to trigger a kodak pro back ?

cheers
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