Ad
Ad
Ad
Pages: « 1 [2]   Bottom of Page
Print
Author Topic: 1/3 stop ISOs  (Read 14120 times)
John Sheehy
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 838


« Reply #20 on: September 14, 2006, 07:41:28 AM »
ReplyReply

Quote
So for a 5D it sounds as if one should stick with 100, 200, 400, and if necessary 800 and 1600.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=75954\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I've thought about this a little more, and even though I said 1000 shouldn't be too bad, it might make more sense to shoot at 800 (and the 100/200/... group in general), and under-expose to get the same Av and Tv values you might get with the 1/3 stop push.  The only advantage to an extra stage of amplification, I would think, is that highlight headroom is consistent (as compared to the 30D's mathematical pushes); the benefits of using the full RAW number range for the standard headroom are probably mostly imaginary with the amount of noise present.
Logged
Eric Myrvaagnes
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8205



WWW
« Reply #21 on: September 14, 2006, 10:01:43 AM »
ReplyReply

Quote
I've thought about this a little more, and even though I said 1000 shouldn't be too bad, it might make more sense to shoot at 800 (and the 100/200/... group in general), and under-expose to get the same Av and Tv values you might get with the 1/3 stop push.  The only advantage to an extra stage of amplification, I would think, is that highlight headroom is consistent (as compared to the 30D's mathematical pushes); the benefits of using the full RAW number range for the standard headroom are probably mostly imaginary with the amount of noise present.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=76308\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Thanks, John. That agrees with what I was guessing.

-Eric
Logged

-Eric Myrvaagnes

http://myrvaagnes.com  Visit my website. New images each season.
Pages: « 1 [2]   Top of Page
Print
Jump to:  

Ad
Ad
Ad