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Author Topic: C645+D35/3.5 vs ALPA+Rodenstock 35/4 HR  (Read 22840 times)
HarperPhotos
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« Reply #40 on: January 19, 2008, 03:35:42 PM »
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i have a box of them to sell ...
i used them together with the kodak slr which hasnt had an aa filter and just 14mp. with the 33mp sensor in my field of work it is a rarely appearng issue which i could allways resolve easy ( more or less ) in postpro. with the 22mp sensor it appears more often.
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Hi Rainer,

I to owned a Kodak SLR-n about 3 years ago.

My therapist has told me that that one more session and I should be over the experience.

Cheers

Simon
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Simon Harper
Harper Photographics Ltd
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Auckland, New Zealand
Ron Steinberg
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« Reply #41 on: January 23, 2008, 06:03:06 PM »
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Hello,

When I got my Aptus 75 the first thing I experienced when photographing
The All Blacks (a rugby team) that I was getting Moire in there black jerseys.

Since then when I am doing my test shots (polaroids in the old days) if  I see any Moire I use Caprock Anti Moire filters which just slid into my Lee lens shade.

There is a very minable loss of resolution but they reduce the Moire effect dramatically and with a bit more sharpening it doesn't matter.

http://www.caprockdev.com/antimoire.htm

Cheers

Simon
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Simon and Rainer,

Can either one of you post a shot comparing the use of the Caprock filters (with and without), preferably on some sort of fabric? Trying to eliminate some moire in a very difficult situation and would like to know that these expensive filters work before I invest in them.

Thanks!
Ron
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David WM
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« Reply #42 on: January 23, 2008, 07:16:57 PM »
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Hi Ron

I have just done some tests using a Caprock 5.6 glass 4"sq filter.

I set up a scene where I deliberately found the subject to camera distance which gave me bad moire. I used a H1 with a 120mm macro at F11 and a Sinar eMotion22 DB. Once I had the moire working bad I dropped the filter over the lens to see the difference.
I have attached the result.
No sharpening applied. Processed in Sinar Captureshop, no Moire reduction etc applied. I intended to test the filter, not software.
regards

David


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Simon and Rainer,

Can either one of you post a shot comparing the use of the Caprock filters (with and without), preferably on some sort of fabric? Trying to eliminate some moire in a very difficult situation and would like to know that these expensive filters work before I invest in them.

Thanks!
Ron
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« Last Edit: January 23, 2008, 07:20:08 PM by David WM » Logged
Ron Steinberg
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« Reply #43 on: January 23, 2008, 07:22:59 PM »
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Hi Ron

I have just done some tests using a Caprock 5.6 glass 4"sq filter.

I set up a scene where I deliberately found the subject to camera distance which gave me bad moire. I used a H1 with a 120mm macro at F11 and a Sinar eMotion22 DB. Once I had the moire working bad I dropped the filter over the lens to see the difference.
I have attached the result.
No sharpening applied. Processed in Sinar Captureshop, no Moire reduction etc applied. I intended to test the filter, not software.
regards

David
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Hi David,

Your attachments didn't show up, can you try again?

Thanks!
Ron
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David WM
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« Reply #44 on: January 23, 2008, 07:35:37 PM »
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I couldn't seem to get the attachments to work, so I have put it on my web site here

http://members.iinet.net.au/~imagery/moire/Caprocktest.jpg

hope this works
David
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Ron Steinberg
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« Reply #45 on: January 23, 2008, 07:41:56 PM »
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I couldn't seem to get the attachments to work, so I have put it on my web site here

http://members.iinet.net.au/~imagery/moire/Caprocktest.jpg

hope this works
David
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Looks like the Caprock filter made things worse?! See left third of middle frame vs. top frame.

Ron
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David WM
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« Reply #46 on: January 23, 2008, 07:51:00 PM »
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Looks like the Caprock filter made things worse?! See left third of middle frame vs. top frame.

Ron
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Sorry, I've mis- labeled them. There was a slight improvement with the filter.

I have reposted the image it is now correct with the unfiltered crop at the top.

David
« Last Edit: January 23, 2008, 07:57:11 PM by David WM » Logged
Ron Steinberg
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« Reply #47 on: January 23, 2008, 07:57:01 PM »
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Sorry, I've mis- labeled them. There was a slight improvement with the filter.

I will re-label and repost the image if you wait a few minutes.
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In that case the filter did make an improvement, but not overall. Still the left third of the frame  looks much better. To what do you attribute the lack of effectiveness of the filter on the right side of the frame?

Please do let us know if you experiment more with this filter, perhaps on fabrics that do not have as many folds or sheen to them.

Thanks!
Ron
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David WM
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« Reply #48 on: January 23, 2008, 08:07:06 PM »
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I put the folds in the fabric because I wanted to test the filter with a variety of moires. They seem to happen so randomly. When shooting still life you can try different things like changing magnification, lighting, angle, F stop etc. But the issue which is worst is when shooting people when the moire can pop up at any time as the weave on the fabric of clothes varies so much. I was hoping it might be good enough just to leave the filter on in these situations.

The Caprock filters come in different strengths, which relate to the size of the circles on the filter. The 5.6 is the second strongest (ie second largest circles). I did have the idea that maybe the least powerful filter (smallest circles) may be better suited to these high MP backs (I say high MP because I think they were designed in the days of 6MP dig backs). I would like to try some of the others, but at around $US200 each (once shipped), the results of this test is not encouraging enough at this stage to keep spending.

I don't know why the moire varies.  It just seems to be the way the light catches the weave of the fabric.

I did send the test results to Caprock and asked their opinion, but got no response apart from suggesting opening up wide to get some softening. That is not a very practical suggestion for general shooting.

David
« Last Edit: January 23, 2008, 08:11:42 PM by David WM » Logged
HarperPhotos
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« Reply #49 on: January 23, 2008, 11:39:50 PM »
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Hi Ron,

Here are some shots taken just this minute.

I have used this shirt as a test for colour moire before to show reps from Leaf and Phase .

Stats:

Mamiya RZ 140mm macro lens

60th sec f11.0  50asa

Leaf Aptus 75

Processed in Adode Bridge CS3

No Sharpening

Image#1: Full frame no filter

Image#2: No filter

Image#3: Caprock filter_4.0

Image#4: Caprock filter_5.6

Image#5: Caprock filter_8.0

I use these filters to remove colour moire when I am shooting fashion or when this affect appears.

Feel free to drag and drop these images and have a go at sharpening them.

Cheers

Simon
« Last Edit: January 24, 2008, 02:49:33 AM by HarperPhotos » Logged

Simon Harper
Harper Photographics Ltd
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http://www.facebook.com/harper.photographics

Auckland, New Zealand
Ron Steinberg
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« Reply #50 on: January 24, 2008, 11:41:53 AM »
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Thank you David and Simon for posting your sample images, it's been of great help.

Cheers,
Ron
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narikin
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« Reply #51 on: January 25, 2008, 10:20:32 AM »
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Today I made some comparison between C645 Distagon 35/3.5 and Rodenstock 35/4 APO-Sironar digital HR.

I found Rodenstock can create more clear and higher resolution image than Distagon. Especially at the edge and corner.


I haven't read all this thread as its got long, but you really cant compare these lenses - one is retrofocus (for mfSLR) and the other is not.  Its Distagon vs Biogon, and a Biogon is always going to be better as its a purer design.

you have to decide which camera type you prefer/need to use (SLR or viewfinder), and then make the best of it.  end of story.
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