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Author Topic: CS3 automated stitch example  (Read 26031 times)
Ray
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« Reply #60 on: March 07, 2007, 10:28:10 AM »
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So FWIW, I now use a simple trick. Since I'm in manual mode anyway, I just stick my hand in front of the lens and grab a frame between each set.  Makes it easy to differentiate them after the fact...
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Jack,
That's a good trick. I'll try that next time. But ultimately, I'm going to stitch the images that produce the best picture, whether or not they are part of the same set, if it's possible, and it certainly seems to be possible... a 21mm shot with seriously sloping horizon and two 25mm shots with a different levelling of camera does not seem to be beyond the capabilities of CS3's Photomerge. If I can copy and paste a few patches from other similar images to fill in the corners, then I'll do it to get the result I want.
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Peter McLennan
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« Reply #61 on: April 07, 2007, 05:28:26 PM »
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Just found this thread.  Impressive results.  Thanks for the detailed analysis.  Considering the previous version - virtually unusable - this looks great.  The skies appear perfect, quite often a problem in my experience.  Have you found anything that breaks CS3's stitcher?

Peter
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larryg
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« Reply #62 on: April 07, 2007, 06:11:25 PM »
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Jack,
That's a good trick. I'll try that next time. But ultimately, I'm going to stitch the images that produce the best picture, whether or not they are part of the same set, if it's possible, and it certainly seems to be possible... a 21mm shot with seriously sloping horizon and two 25mm shots with a different levelling of camera does not seem to be beyond the capabilities of CS3's Photomerge. If I can copy and paste a few patches from other similar images to fill in the corners, then I'll do it to get the result I want.
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I do the same except  a  hand with one finger at the beginning of the series and a hand with two fingers at the end.   Helps to tell when one pano series starts and ends.

Very interested in trying multi focus stitching  (any particular tricks to that one?)
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Peter McLennan
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« Reply #63 on: April 07, 2007, 11:03:22 PM »
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I shoot my hand as an identifier, too.  Years of film shooting has me accustomed to shooting "slates".  These can be very good time-savers later since they isolate groups of frames.

As others have mentioned, horizontal panos are best shot left to right, vertical panos top to bottom. I will sometimes shoot a pano right to left if the rightmost frame is time-critical and the others aren't.  I'll wait for a sailboat to cross the sunpath (or whatever) in the rightmost frame, then shoot the other frames once I have that one recorded.

I believe iView Pro will sort images that are shot close together in time.  ie "give me a listing of all groups of images with less than five seconds between frames"  Could be useful for culling pano source images from large shoots at a later date.  I've yet to try this, though.
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Phuong
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« Reply #64 on: April 08, 2007, 01:36:01 AM »
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This speed problem, exists always with panos. So I decided last year, that I don't have the time to wait 2 hours to get the Panos rendered. I needed to do some other stuff in that time. Now I have a second PC connected with Ethernet 1000MB and it works well.

Ok I'm talking here about 20-40 1DsMk2 files, which are getting kind of big ;-)
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i dont have a 1DsII to test with, but this afternoon i just did an autostitch of 50 jpg images from a 20D, and it took about 35 minutes on a Mac Pro 2.66.
so i guess stitching 20-40 1DsII files probably takes 1.5 to 2 hours at most.
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