Ad
Ad
Ad
Pages: « 1 2 [3]   Bottom of Page
Print
Author Topic: Imacon Backs  (Read 11563 times)
Dustbak
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2374


« Reply #40 on: August 29, 2007, 12:40:21 PM »
ReplyReply

Quote
Thanks for the info.. I'll double check our test machines to see what version of the Flexcolor we used. The rental house told us it was the most current version, but that doesn't mean they were right. :-)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136180\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


Well maybe they were right and maybe my expectations were so low (with regards to speed) that anything would have pleased me  

The 2 seconds mentioned in the test seem too long to me, that notwithstanding it still is not a fast back.

If that is what is truly important to someone the Leaf S-class should be higher on their list (again with regard to speed).

For me it was important to be able to use 1 back on multiple systems.

I don't use FW800 BTW.
« Last Edit: August 29, 2007, 12:41:13 PM by Dustbak » Logged
psp
Guest
« Reply #41 on: August 29, 2007, 02:23:16 PM »
ReplyReply

Quote
important to be able to use 1 back on multiple systems.

I don't use FW800 BTW.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136222\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Then it's not a true nor accurate test of what the back is capable of....
Logged
Dustbak
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2374


« Reply #42 on: August 29, 2007, 02:57:06 PM »
ReplyReply

Euh.... Peter.


I did not do the testing.
Logged
psp
Guest
« Reply #43 on: August 29, 2007, 03:18:25 PM »
ReplyReply

Quote
Euh.... Peter.
I did not do the testing.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136238\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


oh ya... sorry.
Logged
Nick-T
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 462


« Reply #44 on: August 29, 2007, 04:15:47 PM »
ReplyReply

Quote
oh ya... sorry.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136241\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Easily confused those Canadians
Logged

psp
Guest
« Reply #45 on: August 29, 2007, 04:18:52 PM »
ReplyReply

Quote
Easily confused those Canadians
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136250\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I blame it on the heat... it's over 40C here today... ya, that's it... the heat.

Cheers!
Logged
SeanFS
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 114


WWW
« Reply #46 on: August 29, 2007, 04:40:10 PM »
ReplyReply

I'm using a 132c with V series hasselblads. It works very well for me but did take a bit of messing about with the shim kit to get the focus operating correctly at first, and it seems to change depending on which V series camera used as I have tried it on a couple of other models( i'm using a pair of ELX's and am heading towards the H system slowly  as I really want that zoom at some point ).Once set though , I can't  really fault the V series glass , unsharpness is usually caused by mirror slap or hand holding issues, or stopping down past f11.5 where diffraction issues are noticeable. I have a 40, 80, 100, 150 and 180 and they are all sharp - I'm sure H system glass will be that much sharper again as its all of much newer design and digitally oriented . I have the camera set up in portrait and tilt it for landscape which seems to work for me
 I was doing a large people shoot the day before yesterday and its the first big shoot I have done like that since purchasing a Macbook pro. What a difference ! The buffer clears almost immediately, shot speed seemed improved - the only issue I had turned out to be a sticking cable release that caused the camera to fire too quickly once or twice. FC rendering  was happening at least as fast as I was shooting ,  not at full resolution but enough to see facial expressions. stopping briefly to check focus took only a few seconds. But I was wondering how many criticism of speed issues are more a result of computer rather than camera issues as a lot happens in FC and not the camera when shooting tethered. Shooting to the image tank hasn't ever been a problem as the ELX shoots only as fast as the back will.
After 600 shots and a tight deadline I think I'm currently in no hurry to move to 39mp until computers processing gets a bit quicker. FC is at least as fast as C1 , which I use for my Canon , probably faster considering the amounts of data involved and is a bit less fiddly ( I HATE that folder selection arrangement C1 has although the colour it gets from the Canon is really outstanding IMO)







Quote
Well maybe they were right and maybe my expectations were so low (with regards to speed) that anything would have pleased me  

The 2 seconds mentioned in the test seem too long to me, that notwithstanding it still is not a fast back.

If that is what is truly important to someone the Leaf S-class should be higher on their list (again with regard to speed).

For me it was important to be able to use 1 back on multiple systems.

I don't use FW800 BTW.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136222\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Logged
psp
Guest
« Reply #47 on: August 29, 2007, 05:14:43 PM »
ReplyReply

Quote
.... although the colour it gets from the Canon is really outstanding IMO)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136257\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I heard some use the HB profile of FC when shooting with Cannon for amazing results.....
Logged
deelight
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 130


WWW
« Reply #48 on: August 31, 2007, 06:06:08 AM »
ReplyReply

Quote
Don't you guys find shooting portraits with H2 / H3 to be really difficult, especially handheld?  The rig is already heavy enough and yet you have to rotate the camera 90 degrees to frame shots.  Is there a way to rotate the back instead?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136061\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Fo you guys who shoot a lot of portraits with the H get the RRS L-bracket and the handstrap! This is a huge improvement for shooting and makes the H very comfortable, especially on tripod in portrait view.

regards,

Clem
Logged

Dinarius
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 710


« Reply #49 on: September 20, 2007, 04:32:22 AM »
ReplyReply

Very interesting thread which I've only just discovered.

Have been sitting on the fence for the last few months trying to decide what to do next in terms of equipment.

Currently I am using a Sinar P (yes, film!) and a Canon 5D. One year ago, there were 4 E6 labs in my city. There is now one, and next month they are moving to half-time.

So, I need to decide what to do going forward.

Ultimately, I will need to replace the Sinar with a digital equivalent - though, being honest about it, many clients don't need 4x5, they just like the look of the trannies on a lightbox!

I also want a true substitute for my now redundant Mamiya 6x7 system.

Ideally, I would buy a H2D with the 39Mp MS back. Multi-shot is something I could use in my line of work - mostly art catalogues/books.

In addition, I think that the new Canon Mk 111 will be a substitute for my medium-format system.

However, reading this thread, I am wondering should I combine a second-hand Imacon with a new Canon to fill both gaps?

I have a feeling that, since in film days, most of us used medium-format most of the time, the new Canon is going to put serious pressure on the digital back industry.

With the closed H3D system, the loss of the use of Zeiss glass and the move away from Capture One processing, two industry insiders I have spoken to - one a Hasselblad dealer, I should add - believe that Hasselblad have shot themselves in the foot at least three times.

Thus, I would not like to find in six months time that I had paid, say, 10k too much for a 39Mp MS.

Are Imacon backs readily available second-hand?

Does my argument make sense?

D.

ps....I've often thought....if the Hassie/Phase backs were half the price they are currently, would they *only* sell twice as many of them? Surely not! Three times as many? Six times? Ten times?! ;-)
« Last Edit: September 20, 2007, 04:33:15 AM by Dinarius » Logged
SeanFS
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 114


WWW
« Reply #50 on: September 20, 2007, 05:05:53 AM »
ReplyReply

If you are doing art reproduction then a 39MS back is the way to go for ultimate quality but I believe even a 22mp MS back goes past 4x5 for image quality so a second hand one might  be an option.Only with the best possible lenses I'm sure.
The mk 3 will be a pretty good substitute for MF but not quite as it still has an AA filter which will affect sharpness to  greater extent than the MF backs which have none.
I will probably get one to play the role my mk2 does now  - portability and handheld/high iso speed quality.
My main reason for going MF was for the MF look with control of the background, working closer with longer lenses etc as 22 mp is plenty for most of the work it gets used for. I had always enjoyed this with the Hasselblad and 4x5 and whille it isn' t the same , its close



Quote
Very interesting thread which I've only just discovered.

Have been sitting on the fence for the last few months trying to decide what to do next in terms of equipment.

Currently I am using a Sinar P (yes, film!) and a Canon 5D. One year ago, there were 4 E6 labs in my city. There is now one, and next month they are moving to half-time.

So, I need to decide what to do going forward.

Ultimately, I will need to replace the Sinar with a digital equivalent - though, being honest about it, many clients don't need 4x5, they just like the look of the trannies on a lightbox!

I also want a true substitute for my now redundant Mamiya 6x7 system.

Ideally, I would buy a H2D with the 39Mp MS back. Multi-shot is something I could use in my line of work - mostly art catalogues/books.

In addition, I think that the new Canon Mk 111 will be a substitute for my medium-format system.

However, reading this thread, I am wondering should I combine a second-hand Imacon with a new Canon to fill both gaps?

I have a feeling that, since in film days, most of us used medium-format most of the time, the new Canon is going to put serious pressure on the digital back industry.

With the closed H3D system, the loss of the use of Zeiss glass and the move away from Capture One processing, two industry insiders I have spoken to - one a Hasselblad dealer, I should add - believe that Hasselblad have shot themselves in the foot at least three times.

Thus, I would not like to find in six months time that I had paid, say, 10k too much for a 39Mp MS.

Are Imacon backs readily available second-hand?

Does my argument make sense?

D.

ps....I've often thought....if the Hassie/Phase backs were half the price they are currently, would they *only* sell twice as many of them? Surely not! Three times as many? Six times? Ten times?! ;-)
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=140648\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Logged
josayeruk
Guest
« Reply #51 on: September 20, 2007, 05:45:47 AM »
ReplyReply

Quote
With the closed H3D system, the loss of the use of Zeiss glass and the move away from Capture One processing, two industry insiders I have spoken to - one a Hasselblad dealer, I should add - believe that Hasselblad have shot themselves in the foot at least three times.

D.


[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=140648\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Hi D,

I don't think you should think the move away from 'Zeiss' glass as a loss.  This was rather an emotional attachment I beleive and I think most H users would be pretty quick to jump in and say they were entirely happy with their lenses compared to the classic stuff.

Move away from Capture One?  This has never been associated with Imacon / Hasselblad period, so maybe the Hasselblad dealer isn't the best guy to rely on!!

The integration is an advantage to us, nothing else really.

Good luck with the search for a multi shot!

Jo S. x
Logged
MarkDarley
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 5


WWW
« Reply #52 on: September 23, 2007, 12:07:42 PM »
ReplyReply

Help needed with Flexcolor color space correction within Flexcolor:

Shooting at dawn yesterday (hurridly starting in the dark) we mistakenly chose the capture color space on the Flexcolor V 4.5.3 as Std RGB - embed+

It has produced an over saturated RGB look.

Are there any Flexcolor users out there that can tell me how to convert the entire shoot back to Std RGB without the + , preferably in a single action instead of image by image?

Alternatively are there Flexcolor users who know where I can find the Flexcolor forum to ask the same question?

Thanks
Mark
Logged
josayeruk
Guest
« Reply #53 on: September 23, 2007, 12:24:25 PM »
ReplyReply

Quote
Help needed with Flexcolor color space correction within Flexcolor:

Shooting at dawn yesterday (hurridly starting in the dark) we mistakenly chose the capture color space on the Flexcolor V 4.5.3 as Std RGB - embed+

It has produced an over saturated RGB look.

Are there any Flexcolor users out there that can tell me how to convert the entire shoot back to Std RGB without the + , preferably in a single action instead of image by image?

Alternatively are there Flexcolor users who know where I can find the Flexcolor forum to ask the same question?

Thanks
Mark
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=141422\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Hi Mark,

First of all I would ditch that version of FlexColor and get the latest - 4.7.1.

The '+' signifies that you have made an adjustment to the settings within the Std RGB profile - not necesarily a bad thing as I assumed you would have grey balanced?

Anyway, if you want to change them all to another setting, simply open one file, reselect the setup you want, highlight all the images in the thumbnails window, then click on 'Modify'.

Tick the first option - 'Add default Setup'.  Thats it.

There is a user group but you have to be an owner.  Goto groups.yahoo.com and search for 'FlexFrame'.

Jo S.x
Logged
Pages: « 1 2 [3]   Top of Page
Print
Jump to:  

Ad
Ad
Ad