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Author Topic: Zd raw file vrs 1DsMKIII raw file test  (Read 5735 times)
mcfoto
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« on: December 06, 2007, 06:13:32 PM »
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Hi
I am receiving my 1Ds3 today which means i can do a test comparing both cameras. I will most likely use the 55-110 & the 70-200 L IS lenses. I want to post raw files from each camera to post. If you have LR (camera raw) you can create tiffs from them. How do I go about this or what is the best way to post these as they are large ( MEF is 35 mb ).
Thanks Denis
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Denis Montalbetti
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samuel_js
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« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2007, 06:53:26 PM »
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Hi
I am receiving my 1Ds3 today which means i can do a test comparing both cameras. I will most likely use the 55-110 & the 70-200 L IS lenses. I want to post raw files from each camera to post. If you have LR (camera raw) you can create tiffs from them. How do I go about this or what is the best way to post these as they are large ( MEF is 35 mb ).
Thanks Denis
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=158807\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

See the picture:
« Last Edit: December 06, 2007, 06:56:31 PM by samuel_js » Logged
eronald
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« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2007, 07:20:37 PM »
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See the picture:

[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=158813\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

The trick with www.yousendit.com is to email yourself the file via that service, then post the link here.

Edmund
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Anders_HK
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« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2007, 08:28:04 PM »
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Denis,

Looking forward to seeing your files. Last update of CS3 and the SilkyPix Early Preview reads 1Ds Mk 3.

Regards  
Anders
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mcfoto
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« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2007, 10:01:32 PM »
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The trick with www.yousendit.com is to email yourself the file via that service, then post the link here.

Edmund
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=158818\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Hi
The camera is charging as I write this email .I am using yousendit at the moment for other files. So if I send it to my business email that will work? Thanks for the help.
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Denis Montalbetti
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Frank Doorhof
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« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2007, 04:17:07 AM »
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I would not use the 55-110 lens to be honest.
The 70-200 is one of the best zoom lenses I own for the Canon system.
The 55-110 is by far the worst lens I own for the Mamiya.

I think a 150mm or the 105-210 would be a better comparision between the two.
Also because the 55-110 is much wider than the 70-200 so the FOV will be totally different.
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Ray
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« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2007, 10:05:47 AM »
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And of course, when you do match FoVs it would be helpful to do two sets of shots, one matching the vertical FoV of the 2 cameras and the other set matching the horizontal FoV.

If your subject will be 3-dimensional, it will also be necessary to match DoFs which means using the lens on the 1Ds3 at approximately one stop wider aperture.

The idea is to remove as far as possible all the variables which are not directly related to the performance of the actual cameras or backs. For this reason, as Frank has already mentioned, it would be better to use the best lenses you have for each camera.
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Sean H
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« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2007, 11:33:00 AM »
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I would not use the 55-110 lens to be honest.
The 55-110 is by far the worst lens I own for the Mamiya.

Also because the 55-110 is much wider than the 70-200 so the FOV will be totally different.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=158889\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Frank,

why do you say that the 55-110 is the worst lens of the Mamiya system that you have? What problems did you have with it?

I will probably get the Maimiya-PhaseOne system (with at least a P30+) and am curious about  any issues people have with the Mamiya lenses.

Thanks,

Sean.
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Mort54
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« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2007, 11:54:16 AM »
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I will most likely use the 55-110 & the 70-200 L IS lenses.
That would be comparing Mamiyas softest lens against one of Canon's sharpest. I don't think that would be a very meaningful comparison.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2007, 11:54:38 AM by Mort54 » Logged

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juicy
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« Reply #9 on: December 07, 2007, 01:38:57 PM »
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Hi!

This comparison will be interesting.

Just a thought: in addition to other lenses and equalized FOV, how about comparing these cameras with 100mm and 120mm macro lenses stopped to 6.3 or 8 and shooting a large 2D target with very small structural detail just to compare differences in per pixel sharpness and micro detail rendition? (Just a thought...  )

Cheers,
J
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Frank Doorhof
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« Reply #10 on: December 07, 2007, 03:30:24 PM »
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@Sean,
The 55-110 is not a BAD lens, as in a lemon.
If it would be my only lens I would love it.
But when you see the other lenses like the 150mm, 105-210, 80mm 1.9, 120mm Macro, 35mm they are ALL sharper with higher contrast.
The 80mm f2.8 (kitlens) is a good lens but also slightly softer than the previous mentioned, but still sharper than my 55-110.

I use it all the time as walk arround lens just because it has a great reach for walkarround, if it was BAD I would not use it

But compared to the rest of the glass I use it's by far the last in line.

With Canon it's the opposite my 70-200 L f2.8 IS is the BEST lens (zoom) I have in the system.

@Juicy,
PLEASE use 3D objects.
Resolution wise is not important (at least not for me).
What is important the way a system can cope with distance and OOF areas.
Some systems will loose all detail in backgrounds due to AA filtering or simple too much processing while the forgrounds will look the same.

I experienced the same with the ZD back vs my now used Leaf Aptus 22.
When you look casual you can't really see a difference with flat material.
HOWEVER
When you shoot for example a landscape the detail from the leaf in the SMALL almost OOF areas is beter and shadow detail is better.

A lot of people only look at the bare numbers and forget that a photograph consists of MANY pieces that TOGETHER make the feel and look of a shot.

That's why I don't understand the whole 35mm is now beating MF Huh
Resolution wise (MP's) yeah it's there.
But the way you can shoot with a MF is so different from the 35mm format (FOV, DOF etc.) that 35mm can NEVER get to the LOOK and FEEL of a MF shot.

Try photographing a model on a MF system with a 40mm/50mm lens and try to emulate this with 35mm, you will NEVER get the same look.

And visa versa.
You can NEVER emulate a 35mm look with MF.

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RobertJ
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« Reply #11 on: December 07, 2007, 03:40:23 PM »
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You should use prime lenses for quality, or just forget about doing the whole test in general.  You're about to get crucified by these people.

Here's a thought:
For the Mamiya, use the 120mm macro.
For the Canon, use the Zeiss ZF 100 f/2 Makro with an adapter.

...or you can stick with the 1mm-2000000mm zoom lenses that everyone seems to use these days.
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juicy
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« Reply #12 on: December 07, 2007, 04:02:19 PM »
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@Juicy,
PLEASE use 3D objects.
Resolution wise is not important (at least not for me).
What is important the way a system can cope with distance and OOF areas.
Some systems will loose all detail in backgrounds due to AA filtering or simple too much processing while the forgrounds will look the same.

I experienced the same with the ZD back vs my now used Leaf Aptus 22.
When you look casual you can't really see a difference with flat material.
HOWEVER
When you shoot for example a landscape the detail from the leaf in the SMALL almost OOF areas is beter and shadow detail is better.

A lot of people only look at the bare numbers and forget that a photograph consists of MANY pieces that TOGETHER make the feel and look of a shot.

That's why I don't understand the whole 35mm is now beating MF Huh
Resolution wise (MP's) yeah it's there.
But the way you can shoot with a MF is so different from the 35mm format (FOV, DOF etc.) that 35mm can NEVER get to the LOOK and FEEL of a MF shot.

Try photographing a model on a MF system with a 40mm/50mm lens and try to emulate this with 35mm, you will NEVER get the same look.

And visa versa.
You can NEVER emulate a 35mm look with MF.


[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=159078\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


Hi!

Very true what you say here. I just thought that the above mentioned aspects would probably be seen in the other shots. I guess a properly constructed still life will reveal everything necessary, anyway. Just wanted to emphasize on using the sharpest lenses commonly used with these type of cameras and the f-stops that won't be prone to diffraction softening.

Looking forward to see the results  and hopefully fruitfull discussion, no matter what the method. Anyone can draw their own conclusions and I sincerely hope that the current crucifying mentality won't discourage the testers too much, it's just noise after all.

Peace,
J
« Last Edit: December 07, 2007, 04:04:04 PM by juicy » Logged
Anders_HK
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« Reply #13 on: December 07, 2007, 06:11:35 PM »
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Denis,

So many requests already of conditions etc, must make difficult??? Why not just go out shooting thinking of photography instead of tests and using both cameras for same scenes? Some high DR would be great among it.

Regards
Anders
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mcfoto
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« Reply #14 on: December 07, 2007, 11:34:16 PM »
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Hi
Been off line for 24 hours now,
big lighting storm here in Sydney blew out my modem. I  attempt will
later today & I think I will use the 120 (Mamiya) & 70-200 for the Canon. I will set the width of the shot by the Mamiya lens. Let me see how I go. I will use yousendit for the raw files. With the Mamiya MEF files try using RD if you are on a MAC.

Thanks Denis
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Denis Montalbetti
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mcfoto
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« Reply #15 on: December 08, 2007, 04:17:05 AM »
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Hi
They are up in the new post.
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Denis Montalbetti
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