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Author Topic: Tripod Head - Which do you use?  (Read 13592 times)
BJNY
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« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2008, 07:32:33 AM »
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Surprising to read so many using the Bogen/Manfrotto 405.  I purchased one many years ago when it first became available, and returned it instantly, as it was too oversized.  Instead, I've been using the [smaller] top-end 400 for several years, but now am lusting for the Arca-Swiss C1 Cube + P1(single) monoball.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2008, 08:03:20 AM by BJNY » Logged

Guillermo
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« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2008, 08:29:36 AM »
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All my tripods have Arca-Swiss B1's. A shockingly good head.
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Kirk Gittings
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« Reply #22 on: January 07, 2008, 09:01:30 AM »
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Manfrotto 405 Gear Head - it's the big brother to the 410.  Had the 410 before that, but prefer the 405 for the finer control.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=165517\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


I've used many many heads over the years, but I've used the Bogen 410 head for the last few years for everything from DSLR and Hassleblad to my 4x5's under a heavy professional work load. A joy to use. I also use a Beseler 468MGRC4 Magnesium Hydrostatic Ballhead on a lightweight tripod (Bogen 055MF3) for hiking.
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Leonardo Barreto
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« Reply #23 on: January 07, 2008, 04:53:12 PM »
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I just won (I don't have it yet with me) a device that will convert my AFD in to a "revolving camera"

I think that this and a Burzynski ball head wold be a perfect set up for the 645 Mamiya. I think that the adapter rotates the camera leaving the lens center in the same position. If this is the case I can save all the time spent repositioning the tripod (moving it to one side and lowering the hight) with the added value of having avoiding having a heavy/expensive camera leaning away from center of gravity of the tripod.

I hope it works since I spent a fortune on eBay to get it ($42   )

As soon as I get it I will document the way it works that is a bit mysterious to me even now...
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BJNY
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« Reply #24 on: January 07, 2008, 05:03:53 PM »
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In the past, I think it was Stroboframe that manufactured inexpensive brackets that allowed easy centered "flipping" between  horizontal and vertical.
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Guillermo
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« Reply #25 on: January 07, 2008, 07:48:25 PM »
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I just bought an Acratech V2 Ballhead with Quick Release. It's mounted on a Novoflex plate which mounts on a Novoflex quick release.

I do this so I can change tripod heads (pano to ball and vice versa).

Working great so far but all the parts costs a pretty penny ( or I should say quite a few pennies)!
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kevinwilson
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« Reply #26 on: January 08, 2008, 01:59:42 PM »
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I use the Manfrotto Tri Aut in combination with an Arca Swiss ball and socket, it is very good and will allow you plenty of scope.
Kevin
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jonstewart
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« Reply #27 on: January 08, 2008, 03:45:40 PM »
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I just won (I don't have it yet with me) a device that will convert my AFD in to a "revolving camera"


[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=165730\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
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« Last Edit: January 08, 2008, 03:47:14 PM by jonstewart » Logged

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LoneRangefinder
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« Reply #28 on: January 09, 2008, 06:05:34 AM »
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... now am lusting for the Arca-Swiss C1 Cube + P1(single) monoball.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=165600\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Re: the Cube: I haven't touched the FOBA SuperBall I used previously since buying a C1 Cube a couple of years ago.  For composing, it's a lot more satisfying than a ball head so long as you don't have to go instantly to maximum downward tilt.  I actually had the Cube for a while before I realized there is a release knob at the rear that allows most of the base to tilt forward to whatever degree you set.  It's an ingenious bit of three-dimensional design.  LF users don't tilt the camera to re-orienting from landscape to portrait orientation, but when using an MF camera or (D)SLR, you'll want to use an L-bracket, both to maintain center of gravity/stability/min vibration, and because it's faster than unlocking and relocking the tilt lock knob.  The two changes I would most welcome are 1) make the left-right lock knobs more compatible with human fingers, and 2) use an ordinary locking clamp for mounting the camera, a la the SuperBall or Jack Flescher's modified Cube.

The C1 Cube is fine stability-wise from a light camera to a heavy technical view camera at normal to moderate extension.  If using the latter racked out to 300-400mm with a fast, heavy 8x10 lens up front and an MF back on the rear, then you may have to be careful to keep the leverage from moving the setting of the front-rear tilt knob.  You can tighten it's tension, but there's no lock knob per se.

Anyway, my C1 Cube isn't for sale. Hope this helps.
LR
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free1000
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« Reply #29 on: January 09, 2008, 07:55:02 AM »
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A Manfrotto 410 here as well for my Rollei 6008. Love it.
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Yep, I use the 410 with Mamiya+Leaf, Cambo+Leaf, Ebony+Leaf and the DSLR. Lightweight and precise.

I won't use a head that isn't geared again unless someone holds my feet over burning coals.
« Last Edit: January 09, 2008, 07:55:46 AM by free1000 » Logged

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clawery
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« Reply #30 on: January 09, 2008, 10:31:39 AM »
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I use the Manfrotto 3265 Grip Action Ball Head.  It works similar to a joystick on a airplane.  I have a Mamiya RZ ProII with L-bracket and prism and it holds rather well.   It's rated for only 5.5 lbs, so I'm not sure if it could handle the weight of a H1 / H2 with a 150mm.  Hasselblad's new lenses are quite heavy.

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Snook
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« Reply #31 on: January 09, 2008, 01:29:02 PM »
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I use the Manfrotto 3265 Grip Action Ball Head.  It works similar to a joystick on a airplane.  I have a Mamiya RZ ProII with L-bracket and prism and it holds rather well.   It's rated for only 5.5 lbs, so I'm not sure if it could handle the weight of a H1 / H2 with a 150mm.  Hasselblad's new lenses are quite heavy.

Chris Lawery
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Anybody have the part number by any chance for the Mamiya AFDII L Bracket?
Could not find it on the site.
Thanks
Snook
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rgold1963
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« Reply #32 on: January 09, 2008, 09:37:30 PM »
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I use this one :  http://www.kirkphoto.com/lbracketso.html
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clawery
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« Reply #33 on: January 10, 2008, 03:28:16 PM »
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Anybody have the part number by any chance for the Mamiya AFDII L Bracket?
Could not find it on the site.
Thanks
Snook
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=166175\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


There are are few brackets that Mamiya produces.  Here are two of the brackets that I found:

1. part # 211-758 RotaCam Bracket for 645AFDII/ 645AFD / 645AF

2. part # 212-550 RZ L-grip w/ handstrap and electronic shutter release

Chris Lawery
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Don Libby
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« Reply #34 on: January 11, 2008, 02:16:15 PM »
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Anybody have the part number by any chance for the Mamiya AFDII L Bracket?
Could not find it on the site.
Thanks
Snook
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


Snook - I use the Kirk Photo BL645AF on my Mamiya AFDII with great success - wouldn't think of not using it.  I use Kirk L brackets on all my cameras.  I've also added the spacer block to the Mamiya to help with the shutter release - LBA-1 is the part #.  Kirk just brought back the L bracket after being discontinued for awhile.  Go to [a href=\"http://www.kirkphoto.com/Welcome.html]http://www.kirkphoto.com/Welcome.html[/url]

don
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Morgan_Moore
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« Reply #35 on: January 12, 2008, 06:59:20 AM »
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Can someone explain how the RRS interacts with the H1 quick release plate or is that abaondoned

What is needed IMO is a 90 H1 QR plate ??

So the QR plate bottom is left on the tripod then one either attaches the camera or the camera via a 90 adapter

I like to be able to get my camera off the tripod fast

SMM
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Dustbak
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« Reply #36 on: January 12, 2008, 07:25:37 AM »
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I don't use the Hasselblad quick release, it is a nice idea but it is not possible to do portrait with it. The RRS L-Plate fits over the body like a glove. Only other downside I found (besides the sync cable thingy) is that the centermarkings are very hard to see, they should go over the side of the plate, not just on top of it.

Take a RRS plate and a RRS quickrelease clamp and you have what you want. A system where you can easily and quickly attach & detach your body either in portrait or landscape. You don't even have to undo the clamp entirely, you can slide it in if you only loosen it somewhat.

When you ever consider doing panoramas with your H, don't get the regular RRS clamp but go for the PCL1 pano clamp immediately. That is a clamp and a panohead in one package. You can leave the L-bracket on the H which is what I do. I find it is not in the way of working handheld.

Something that doesn't show on images is the build quality of the RRS clamps and brackets. It is very well built, very rugged. I have had manfrotto QR plates, novoflex plates/heads (pano), Minolta panohead, Nikon panoheads, etc.. none of them had that ruggedness while still keeping silky smooth operation.  

I saw someone mention he had movement in his clamp and bracket, that must have been another brand of clamp if not he should return the thing to RRS to get it replaced.
« Last Edit: January 12, 2008, 07:31:02 AM by Dustbak » Logged
Dinarius
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« Reply #37 on: January 12, 2008, 07:55:16 AM »
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I tried a H3D2 at my dealer's with both the Manfrotto 3D Pro Head 229 and the Pro Geared Head 405.

Firstly, the 229 is a huge step up from the old 029 and makes the Hassie seem light. I liked it a lot.

Never having used geared heads, I found the 405 a bit ponderous, but I guess you get used to it. I would love a lever to have when flipping the camera over to portrait. The quick release mechanism on the head is good but not hugely to my liking.

D.
« Last Edit: January 12, 2008, 07:55:37 AM by Dinarius » Logged
mikeseb
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« Reply #38 on: January 12, 2008, 09:00:02 AM »
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RRS B55 head, L plate on my Contax 645 with battery grip. Rock solid on Gitzo legs.
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michael sebastian
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« Reply #39 on: January 12, 2008, 09:28:46 AM »
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Mike,

Do you have the Gitzo with the new release for the legs or do you use the older screw system? If you have the new version how do you like it?
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