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Author Topic: World is fair  (Read 3595 times)
CharmedEye
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« on: March 20, 2008, 06:38:01 PM »
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It's more of an observation than a question.
I'm printing some art repros. I've shot a few with my Ds & got some made with Phase One's H25. Printsize - 13x19, not borderless.
My heart bleeds but I must admit there's a world of difference!
Prints from the H25's ones are so alive that an artist said he can't understand how they're made & can stand as a true artwork
My lens: TS-E 45. For the sake of experiment tried also 135 f/2 L. Both are considered to be among the Canon's sharpest.
Photokit Sharpener
HP B9180 &  Epson 9880
Interestingly on both printers I got noticeable better blacks on HNM Torchion than Harman's White Matte.

ChE
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Doyle Yoder
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« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2008, 08:09:13 PM »
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Is the processor of raw files a variable in here you over looked.

Doyle
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WBusch
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« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2008, 08:22:04 PM »
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Charmed Eye,
Any difference in detail as well. I was considering the 1ds mk3, but got a used H25 instead. Depending on what you shoot, the canon must give you a faster workflow.The only thing I dislike about the H25 is you have to be tethered all the time and focusing is difficult on my Cambo Wide Ds. I do miss the ease of use of the canon 1ds mk1. I have to agree images on the H25 are stunning,even if its difficult to use sometimes.You might try getting a cable release, shoot with the mirror locked up,use live view to focus , and check the lens focusing adjustment. All of these can help you get sharpest images possible with that set up. Also be very careful to shade your lens. Lens flair can kill contrast and color quickly. Good lighting with the canons is a must. Even with my Canon 1ds 11mp I was amazed how sharp I could get some photos.
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Bill Busch      ! If It Is To Be   It Is Up To Me !
WBusch
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« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2008, 08:39:47 PM »
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Charmed Eye,
Sorry forgot . The canon TSE 90 mm is the sharpest canon lens I have used. (for fine detail) Using Canon DPP Raw converter makes a difference. Its not the greatest to use but worth the results.
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Bill Busch      ! If It Is To Be   It Is Up To Me !
CharmedEye
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« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2008, 04:41:12 AM »
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For RAW conversion I used ACR 4 as my trusty DxO doesn't support DsM3 yet.
I guess Ph1 got Capt1 treatment but definitely not with the last version. Files are more than a year old.  

ChE
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woof75
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« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2008, 07:22:32 AM »
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Unfortunately there is quite a difference. When shooting with a dslr your shooting through basically a softening filter (the AA filter) and the results look like it. When it comes to workflow though you can shoot a 1ds quickly the preview's pop up much quicker when tethered to a phase back.
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Doyle Yoder
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« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2008, 09:51:11 AM »
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For RAW conversion I used ACR 4 as my trusty DxO doesn't support DsM3 yet.
I guess Ph1 got Capt1 treatment but definitely not with the last version. Files are more than a year old. 

ChE
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=183162\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


With ACR, the results you see would would not surprise me.

Doyle
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Craig Lamson
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« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2008, 10:42:10 AM »
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Unfortunately there is quite a difference. When shooting with a dslr your shooting through basically a softening filter (the AA filter) and the results look like it. When it comes to workflow though you can shoot a 1ds quickly the preview's pop up much quicker when tethered to a phase back.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=183182\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

A good local contrast workflow really works wonders on an aa filtered file.
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Craig Lamson Photo
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woof75
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« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2008, 12:02:56 PM »
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A good local contrast workflow really works wonders on an aa filtered file.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=183236\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Well, to an extent but things start looking a little clumsy and lumpy and digital looking, there really is no substitute to an inherently sharp file.
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Craig Lamson
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« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2008, 12:54:18 PM »
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Well, to an extent but things start looking a little clumsy and lumpy and digital looking, there really is no substitute to an inherently sharp file.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=183251\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Well thats a matter of opinion, I guess it depends on your needs.  The problems I've had in MY work is that 22 mp MFDB I've demo'ed had a big problem with fabric moire and I shoot a lot of fabric.  AA filtered cameras are a far better solution...for me.  I'll give up a tad  to gain a lot.  That I can't get a lens that equals my standard which is 12-14mm.

Thankfully we have choices.
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Craig Lamson Photo
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CharmedEye
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« Reply #10 on: March 21, 2008, 03:38:29 PM »
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A good local contrast workflow really works wonders on an aa filtered file.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=183236\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


Would you pls talk a little more about this? There are plenty of threads out there but not often set workflows are explained.
I'm using Photolift & USM for it.

cheers,

ChE
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Ray
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« Reply #11 on: March 21, 2008, 09:41:56 PM »
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Would you pls talk a little more about this? There are plenty of threads out there but not often set workflows are explained.
I'm using Photolift & USM for it.

cheers,

ChE
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=183301\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

It would be really helpful if you could provide is with both the 1Ds3 and H25 RAW files so we could all have a practice at trying what workflow works best with each image.
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