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Author Topic: M9 Review Discussion  (Read 45310 times)
BernardLanguillier
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« Reply #100 on: October 04, 2009, 06:40:10 AM »
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Quote from: Slough
I think there is another reason, assuming that I understood the earlier post, and that by focus stacking you mean achieving infinite DOF by stacking multiple exposures, each focused at a different distance. When you focus on a nearby object, the background is out of focus. When you focus on the background, the nearby object is blurred. The problem is that the blurred image of the nearby object is larger than the size of the focused image of the nearby object. Hence it is not possible to obtain a focused image of the background surrounding the nearby object. Therefore it is not possible to create a focused composite image.

As an aside I feel quite annoyed at having downloaded and tested (but not bought) a new focus stacking programme, only to slowly realise that in general focus stacking is impossible. Odd how these people are prepared to charge you a pretty penny for their software, but they do not explain that it can only work for a restricted range of scenes.

You are correct, problems can occur if you lack images between a near and far object, it is important to stop down enough and to include intermediate steps between near and far objects.

Cheers,
Bernard
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A few images online here!
Rob C
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« Reply #101 on: October 04, 2009, 06:53:17 AM »
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Quote from: JonasYip
Well, although I actually do have a Porsche, I must say I've had much fun in a rental Ford Fiesta (or somesuch) on roundabouts... you get to feel the car shaking and pushing the limits of grip and structural integrity as you "scream" around the corner, all while never actually approaching the speed limit.

j



Well, that seems more like self-delusion to me! To extend, you could just sit in the garage and play the soundtrack, if you want fake thrills.

Must say, I would love the Porsche though; even if it is a pendulum I could always go slowly and just show off! Perhaps that's because I've had Fiestas and they are, when you stop confusing poverty with economy (another level of self-delusion), a load of cheap crap except when you have to pay for them.

;-)

Rob
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Concorde-SST
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« Reply #102 on: October 16, 2009, 02:30:51 PM »
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Quote from: Bartie
Hi Guys,I`m after a bit of advice.I can feel an M9 purchase just around the corner and was wondering which lens to buy with it.

I guess you take a look at Voigtländer lenses. They seem to
have the right feeling with them.


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alba63
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« Reply #103 on: October 17, 2009, 12:54:13 PM »
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Quote from: Concorde-SST
I guess you take a look at Voigtländer lenses. They seem to
have the right feeling with them.

That was my plan 3y ago: To buy a M8 and get those relatively cheap Voigtländers which get rave reviews. However the first 2 samples I tried on the M8 (loaned) were no even close to the one Leica lens I tried. I was really dissappointed and instantly gave up the Leica plan - buying a setup of Leica lenses was out of question - much too expensive for me.

so: Try those Voigtländers on a Leica before deciding to go for that way.

bernie
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TMARK
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« Reply #104 on: October 24, 2009, 01:01:59 PM »
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Quote from: alba63
That was my plan 3y ago: To buy a M8 and get those relatively cheap Voigtländers which get rave reviews. However the first 2 samples I tried on the M8 (loaned) were no even close to the one Leica lens I tried. I was really dissappointed and instantly gave up the Leica plan - buying a setup of Leica lenses was out of question - much too expensive for me.

so: Try those Voigtländers on a Leica before deciding to go for that way.

bernie

Try the Zeiss M mounts.  I don't think they are better or worse than their Leica counterparts, they are just different.  Much more contrast, about as sharp or sharper, much cheaper.
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SteveF
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« Reply #105 on: December 21, 2009, 10:42:35 PM »
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I've purchased the M9 to use as a landscape camera.

It replaced a d3x / 14-24 combo.

After a few months I'm extremely happy with the switch.

For landscape type photography there are two issues that I wish were different.

Long exposures. The camera cannot do an exposure longer than 250 sec, and then after that there is a mandatory 250 sec dark frame subtraction. This rules out using it for star trails and other longer exposures. Seems this is related to the CCD sensor and not something that could be changed easily.


Bracketing for HDR panos. For a single shot HDR the bracketing controls are great. # of exposures, spacing, etc.

However, the bracketing only works when the camera is in "A" mode. For pano's one needs to set the shutter speed manually - but if this is done then none of the great bracketing controls are available.

One can still change the exposures for an hdr pano manually, but this means touching the camera to turn a dial in between each shot, taking time (in which the scene can change) and potentially introducing motion.

Hopefully this will be fixed in a future firmware upgrade as it really is an unnecessary limitation, imposed by firmware programming and not an limitation of the camera.


Other than that I'm pretty much sold. Prints look great, my whole kit (less a small tripod) fits in a small fanny pack and using an RF again is really fun.

One from Antelope a few weeks ago with the M9 and wate.

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Steve Fines

www.finesart.com
uaiomex
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« Reply #106 on: December 21, 2009, 10:54:03 PM »
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That's about the best picture I've seen of the slots. Congratulations. It's abstract too. I see a few women shapes too. Or is it just too late already.  
Eduardo

Quote from: SteveF
I've purchased the M9 to use as a landscape camera.

It replaced a d3x / 14-24 combo.

After a few months I'm extremely happy with the switch.

For landscape type photography there are two issues that I wish were different.

Long exposures. The camera cannot do an exposure longer than 250 sec, and then after that there is a mandatory 250 sec dark frame subtraction. This rules out using it for star trails and other longer exposures. Seems this is related to the CCD sensor and not something that could be changed easily.


Bracketing for HDR panos. For a single shot HDR the bracketing controls are great. # of exposures, spacing, etc.

However, the bracketing only works when the camera is in "A" mode. For pano's one needs to set the shutter speed manually - but if this is done then none of the great bracketing controls are available.

One can still change the exposures for an hdr pano manually, but this means touching the camera to turn a dial in between each shot, taking time (in which the scene can change) and potentially introducing motion.

Hopefully this will be fixed in a future firmware upgrade as it really is an unnecessary limitation, imposed by firmware programming and not an limitation of the camera.


Other than that I'm pretty much sold. Prints look great, my whole kit (less a small tripod) fits in a small fanny pack and using an RF again is really fun.

One from Antelope a few weeks ago with the M9 and wate.

« Last Edit: December 21, 2009, 10:56:32 PM by uaiomex » Logged
achrisproduction
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« Reply #107 on: January 27, 2010, 11:57:28 PM »
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Quote from: SteveF
I've purchased the M9 to use as a landscape camera.

It replaced a d3x / 14-24 combo.

After a few months I'm extremely happy with the switch.

For landscape type photography there are two issues that I wish were different.

Long exposures. The camera cannot do an exposure longer than 250 sec, and then after that there is a mandatory 250 sec dark frame subtraction. This rules out using it for star trails and other longer exposures. Seems this is related to the CCD sensor and not something that could be changed easily.


Bracketing for HDR panos. For a single shot HDR the bracketing controls are great. # of exposures, spacing, etc.

However, the bracketing only works when the camera is in "A" mode. For pano's one needs to set the shutter speed manually - but if this is done then none of the great bracketing controls are available.

One can still change the exposures for an hdr pano manually, but this means touching the camera to turn a dial in between each shot, taking time (in which the scene can change) and potentially introducing motion.

Hopefully this will be fixed in a future firmware upgrade as it really is an unnecessary limitation, imposed by firmware programming and not an limitation of the camera.


Other than that I'm pretty much sold. Prints look great, my whole kit (less a small tripod) fits in a small fanny pack and using an RF again is really fun.

One from Antelope a few weeks ago with the M9 and wate.

Hey bro, awesome picture.  Would you mind to post more?  PLEASE!
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dseelig
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« Reply #108 on: January 30, 2010, 01:15:06 AM »
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The voigts as James Russell said is like putting a chevy engine in a porsche. Compared to leica glass they are to  up to snuff. Yes I have used a few. The Zeiss glass the 50 f2 the 21 2.8 the 25 mm lenses are much better. But for me nothing is more important then shooting at 1.4 so I have nothing but leica glass now. I have shot a lot of street people homeless the classic street stuff. I do not sneak photos. The Leica is always more welcome as it is small and non threatening compared to nikons and canons. I shoot canons for my professional work love them but they get a more stiff reaction people get uptight on the streets when I shoot them. David
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TMARK
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« Reply #109 on: February 08, 2010, 11:03:41 PM »
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Quote from: markhout
Curious as to how Zeiss lenses work with leica's 6 bit / lens recognition system...

None of my lenses, Zeiss or Leica, are coded.  OK, the 21 is coded, by me, with a sharpie, its the only one that shows any cyan issues.
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Slough
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« Reply #110 on: February 14, 2010, 07:52:44 AM »
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Quote from: BernardLanguillier
You are correct, problems can occur if you lack images between a near and far object, it is important to stop down enough and to include intermediate steps between near and far objects.

Cheers,
Bernard

I've only just seen this reply. No, it is independent of the number of frames you take. The problem is that when you focus on the distance, nearby objects are blurred, and the blur outline is larger than the in-focus outline. So you can never get an image with an in-focus rendition of the region around nearby objects. The result is halos which cannot be removed wihtout some form of manual editing or interpolation. It is possible that for landscapes with ~planar subjects with no foreground trees/obhects this is not an issue, but in general it is a problem.
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RobinCampbell
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« Reply #111 on: February 27, 2010, 02:05:23 AM »
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Hello everyone

 I have been looking at the Leica M9 with 4 lens; and just prior to it coming out i was looking at the ALPA 12 Max with 4 lens and  a digital back with some lens with a TC frame as part of the platform for point and shoot. The programme reviews have been great on each camera. I am trying to understand the benefits of each camera against each other. Any views please?
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