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Author Topic: Jenoptic M22 precision driver wanted  (Read 10288 times)
bdp
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« Reply #40 on: November 21, 2009, 06:16:44 AM »
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Quote from: ThierryH
... Yes.

I see that "Goodi" (ex Jenoptik) is online, he could may be intervene and help?

Thierry

I'm responsible for that    Sent the SOS to my old support guy.....

Ben
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ThierryH
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« Reply #41 on: November 21, 2009, 06:18:00 AM »
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Quote from: bdp
I'm responsible for that    Sent the SOS to my old support guy.....

Ben

... I wouldn't dare to "disturb" Michael, but since he is here ...



Thierry
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ixpressraf
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« Reply #42 on: November 21, 2009, 06:21:06 AM »
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The body has firmware 9.3.2
I also have a body with newer firmware but that one even can not be triggered by pressing the button. On the H2 body same story. So i only have one body that can be fired when the back is attached but the back does not fire or take a picture.
« Last Edit: November 21, 2009, 06:29:20 AM by ixpressraf » Logged
Goodi
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« Reply #43 on: November 21, 2009, 06:40:56 AM »
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[indent][/indent]
Quote from: ixpressraf
The body has firmware 9.3.2
I also have a body with newer firmware but that one even can not be triggered by pressing the button. On the H2 body same story. So i only have one body that can be fired when the back is attached but the back does not fire or take a picture.
Hi together,
the M22 works fine with the H1 but not with the H2. As far I could remember the M22 should work without extra cabel, cause the contacts are going through the adapter. If you cannot realeas try following. Choose Hasselblad V in the preferences and use the cable going from the sync port to the 4 pin jack of the back
regards
michael
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ixpressraf
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« Reply #44 on: November 21, 2009, 07:08:56 AM »
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Quote from: Goodi
[indent][/indent]
Hi together,
the M22 works fine with the H1 but not with the H2. As far I could remember the M22 should work without extra cabel, cause the contacts are going through the adapter. If you cannot realeas try following. Choose Hasselblad V in the preferences and use the cable going from the sync port to the 4 pin jack of the back
regards
michael

Hallo Michael,
is it the normal sync socket on the bottem of the back that triggers it?Huh
thanks.
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Goodi
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« Reply #45 on: November 21, 2009, 07:33:06 AM »
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Quote from: ixpressraf
Hallo Michael,
is it the normal sync socket on the bottem of the back that triggers it?Huh
thanks.
On the bottom of the back you have two plug a bigger one and a smaller one, you have to use the smaller one.
Michael
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ixpressraf
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« Reply #46 on: November 21, 2009, 08:07:37 AM »
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I give up, i spent already way to long on this.
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bdp
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« Reply #47 on: November 21, 2009, 06:35:32 PM »
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I think you have to 'activate' a capture window before you can capture. It's the upper left icon in the software toolbar from memory. This opens a capture window and makes the light go green on the back so you can shoot. Did you know this? Have you ever had a green light on the back??

Ben
« Last Edit: November 22, 2009, 04:33:07 AM by bdp » Logged
ixpressraf
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« Reply #48 on: November 22, 2009, 06:41:28 AM »
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Hi Ben, I did do that from the beginning. That is how software seemed to run properly, lights turn green after calibration but when i press the shutter no capture takes place.
Maybe i need an extra cable. I made a picture to show the possibilities:
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Goodi
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« Reply #49 on: November 22, 2009, 10:37:28 AM »
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Quote from: ixpressraf
Hi Ben, I did do that from the beginning. That is how software seemed to run properly, lights turn green after calibration but when i press the shutter no capture takes place.
Maybe i need an extra cable. I made a picture to show the possibilities:
You have to use the cable from the flash sync jack at your camera to the second plug from the left side to sync the back. normally it should also work without, but to be sure that the back is not broken please use the cable and set the camera to Hasselblad V in the preferences.

best regards
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ixpressraf
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« Reply #50 on: November 26, 2009, 06:10:08 AM »
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Update: I now have the sync cable and the back works great. What a nice image quality is coming out of such a back. Ok, my 528 and 39Mp are more practical but for the 3000 euro i paid for it, nothing can beat it.  
I only wished it had mamiya 645 adaptorplate instead of hasselblad-H.
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ThierryH
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« Reply #51 on: November 26, 2009, 06:42:07 AM »
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Quote from: ixpressraf
Update: I now have the sync cable and the back works great. What a nice image quality is coming out of such a back. Ok, my 528 and 39Mp are more practical but for the 3000 euro i paid for it, nothing can beat it.  
I only wished it had mamiya 645 adaptorplate instead of hasselblad-H.

Raf,

Great news!

get in touch with Sinar directly: they may be able to know if such is available somewhere in Jenoptik's stocks.

Best,
Thierry
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edwinb
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« Reply #52 on: November 26, 2009, 09:22:35 AM »
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Quote from: ixpressraf
Update: I now have the sync cable and the back works great. What a nice image quality is coming out of such a back. Ok, my 528 and 39Mp are more practical but for the 3000 euro i paid for it, nothing can beat it.  
I only wished it had mamiya 645 adaptorplate instead of hasselblad-H.

If your local to london I have a couple of precision/mamiya adaptors of uncertain quality
page 2 of this pdf may be useful for camera interface cable identification in future
(stable door being bolted firmly!)
Edwin

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Edwin Blenkinsopp
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w: Sinar | Foba | Inkjet
Imaginara
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« Reply #53 on: November 27, 2009, 02:14:15 AM »
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Quote from: edwinb
If your local to london I have a couple of precision/mamiya adaptors of uncertain quality
page 2 of this pdf may be useful for camera interface cable identification in future
(stable door being bolted firmly!)
Edwin

You wouldnt happen to have an RZ adapter for the M11 back by any chance?
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