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Author Topic: Having problems with my mat cutter (Logan 650)  (Read 8998 times)
Bill Koenig
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« Reply #20 on: January 12, 2010, 01:31:36 PM »
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Thanks everyone for replying.
Over the weekend, using 1/3 depth into the slip sheet as a starting as a point as Framah recommended, I started making cuts, after changing start and stop points, then adjusting the depth, I finely found the correct blade depth, now my starting and stop points were very close to what the manual says there supposed to be.
As Framah says, its all about the correct blade depth. Also, being one with my mat cutter is how I feel about it now, as I made close to 100 cuts over the weekend.
Now, I'm getting good cuts every time, with just a very small amount of over cut that's hardly visible. Its so nice to lift the cut mat up and have the drop stay where it is. No more under cuts.
Its to bad that Logan couldn't have designed a way to tell how deep the blade is, as this is very hard to measure with any kind of accuracy, and from what I'm seeing, 0.010" makes a difference. I find that just 1/4 turn of the adjustment screw can make or brake the correct depth, but getting to that depth, is not east, but now I know this. Even after talking with there customer support, which was no help at all, they couldn't tell me this.



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neile
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« Reply #21 on: January 12, 2010, 05:19:30 PM »
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Thanks for the update, Bill. I'm about to embark on something similar tonight, as I'm getting terrible hooks at the start of all my cuts. It's a recent problem, and likely due to a blade depth adjustment I made (but never should have done) about a month ago. Between the depth adjustment and the pressure screw I should be able to get it sorted. Just will depend on how long it will take

Neil
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Justan
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« Reply #22 on: January 14, 2010, 09:43:16 AM »
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^^ Also check the tightness of the cutting head unit. When they become loose they can move side to side.
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framah
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« Reply #23 on: January 14, 2010, 12:34:16 PM »
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Another reason for hooks along with the blade being too far out of its holder is if the blade is too thin. The two combined makes a sure recipe for hooks. The companies make different thickness blades as well as single sided and double sided blades.

I currently use a C&H 1200SE blade... 12 being the thickness versus 15 for a thicker one and SE means single sided. A double beveled blade will, by nature, be thinner and thus will flex more.  The thicker the blade, the more it will push the edge of the mat up as it cuts creating a ridge of sorts at the edge of the mat cut. The burnisher.. or your finger nail... will push the ridge back down so it is nice and flat.

You might not think it is worth bothering with and most people would never notice. I find that it's these little things that give a finished piece a more professional look as do no overcuts or at least overcuts pushed back into place.

Something else for you to learn about mat cutting:

When you make your first cut with a new blade, be aware of how it feels as it cuts thru the matboard.   Then notice how it feels after making a few mats. You'll soon notice how much easier it feels when new and how the resistance has increased after a few mats. This feel is a way of judging when it is time to change the blade.  

Depending how large your mats are, you might want to change the blade every 8 to 10 mats. Blades are cheap compared to messing up the last sheet of mat board for that job that has to go out the next day!!
 LARGE mats sometimes require the blade to be changed after 2 sides.  I have cut a 50x72 inch mat and changed the blade after 2 sides rather than take the chance on a dull blade messing up the mat.

Class dismissed.
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framah
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« Reply #24 on: January 14, 2010, 12:37:50 PM »
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Almost forgot...

 Move  the slip sheet around so you are not cutting in the same place each time. This will also give you a nice clean look. A slip sheet that you have used in the same place will soon not support the mat  and will start to give you ragged cuts.
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neile
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« Reply #25 on: January 14, 2010, 12:43:40 PM »
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Quote from: framah
Another reason for hooks along with the blade being too far out of its holder is if the blade is too thin. The two combined makes a sure recipe for hooks. The companies make different thickness blades as well as single sided and double sided blades.

I spent a bunch of time with my 660 on Tuesday night and blade depth helped the hooking a lot, but there still is some slight hooking at the beginning. The blade is clearly flexing on the way in, even with the blade tension screw adjusted appropriately.

Using other company blades is intriguing, I'll have to give that a try. I'm pretty religious about swapping blades out frequently. As you say, blades are dirt cheep. Same with backer board. There's always scrap lying around for that

Neil
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framah
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« Reply #26 on: January 14, 2010, 01:20:09 PM »
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How old is your cutter?

 Could the bearings in the cutting head be worn enough to have slop in it? and if so, can it be adjusted?

This is what Justan is talking about.

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neile
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« Reply #27 on: January 14, 2010, 02:01:06 PM »
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It's from 2007, but doesn't get daily use. I'd be surprised if they've worn, but I'll take a peek.

Neil
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framah
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« Reply #28 on: January 14, 2010, 02:40:42 PM »
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Nah!!

2007 with your level of use... it's still new. No wear to speak of.


You need to spend about $22,000 and get yourself one of those fancy computerized mat cutters!!  

Ayuh!
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AFairley
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« Reply #29 on: January 14, 2010, 04:44:25 PM »
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Quote from: framah
Another reason for hooks along with the blade being too far out of its holder is if the blade is too thin.

Yes!  I use the Logan hand cutter, I have a 25-year-old model that takes straight edged razor blades and cuts perfectly.  I have the new one that only takes Logan blades and get hooks with it every time.
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framah
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« Reply #30 on: January 15, 2010, 09:41:30 AM »
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I checked the United Manufacturers catalog and it looks like  Logan blades are 1 1/2" long and the other ones for Fletcher or C&H are 1 3/4" long. Not sure if the longer blades will fit the logan.

Personally, you all should do yourselves a favor and get either a Fletcher or a C&H mat cutter. Look for used ones on eBay if you want but the old adage applies here: Buy the best tool you can afford for the job at  hand.  The higher expense pretty much offsets the hassle factor of trying to consistently do good work with inferior equipment.

Yes, they are more expensive but then so is your camera and lenses and your computer and monitor, etc.  

$2000 for a lens or about $1,000 for a mat cutter?



There's a nice used 60" Fletcher up on eBay right now going for $849.
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Alan Goldhammer
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« Reply #31 on: January 15, 2010, 10:16:57 AM »
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Good discussion with helpful hints.  I don't do the amount of work that warrants a 650 (or even one of the more exotic units) and have a Logan 450.  It uses a different blade than the 650 and I'm not sure whether it is thicker or not.  I do change the blade regularly and haven't observed the hooks that you mention.  One of the downsides to the 450 is that you really need to line the bevel cutter up correctly.  They also glued down the mat guide ruler so that it's off by 1/4 inch (I discovered this when my first mat left "wonderful" white space around the photograph when I went to mount it.  Fortunately, I didn't just cut lots of mat which would have really made me angry.
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