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Author Topic: Print on stainless steel with copper metallic painted base color  (Read 6353 times)
Dan Berg
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« on: April 01, 2011, 08:39:59 AM »
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Another snowy day in Pa. makes a good day to finish my stainless steel print project.
.028 raw stainless steel primed with Krylon primer then 2 coats of Krylon canyon copper metallic.
The closest I could find to mimicking the rust in this shot.
2 coats of Inkaid then printed on my 9900.
After 2 days for the ink to dry top coated with 2 coats of Krylon satin.
No borderless with the 9900 for this size so I elected to but a brush stroke border using "On Ones" Photo Frame.
I can print borderless by cutting a hole the size of the metal sheet in a larger heavier paper then taping the metal into the cut out.
It's such a pain and I think this looks fine.
That metallic really sparkles especially over the rusted cart and box.
Headed to Home Depot to buy a half dozen different colors to try out.
Will make for a pricey print with 3+ hours in this one alone.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2011, 09:33:38 AM by Dan Berg » Logged

Randy Carone
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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2011, 08:53:19 AM »
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Very nice. I love the overall look of this image on the tinted metal. How was the image processed? Does the metal and dot gain give it the mottled look or did you filter the image to look like a painting?
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Randy Carone
Dan Berg
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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2011, 09:10:25 AM »
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Very nice. I love the overall look of this image on the tinted metal. How was the image processed? Does the metal and dot gain give it the mottled look or did you filter the image to look like a painting?

Randy,thank you.
Photomatix HDR, trying to keep from going over the processing edge if you know what I mean.
Bodie,Ca. Goldtown


« Last Edit: April 01, 2011, 09:15:42 AM by Dan Berg » Logged

neile
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2011, 10:02:27 AM »
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Dan, what are you using for a paper profile for this stuff?

I have a sheet of gold toned steel from a local engraving place that's waiting ot be printed on Smiley

Neil
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Neil Enns
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mstevensphoto
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2011, 11:13:39 AM »
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love it! I'm very interested to know if you've tried to distress your metal sheet after everything is printed and dry. can you add some bends/dents/whatever to the metal without it immediately letting go of the ink/coating?
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Dan Berg
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« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2011, 11:22:31 AM »
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Neil,
I am using the Booksmart Studio metal profile with pk and plpp 260 for the paper setting.
I checked with the folks at Inkaid and they suggested the same settings so that is what I am using.
That profile did not work so great when I printed on the metal coated with the stone pebble finish.(Came out real dark.)
I will be purchasing the new i1 profiler and software for profiling as I am getting into printing some real funky stuff.
I expect that will only improve the output.

Mark,
Have not tried any distressing to date.
So far I have been doing everything in my power to keep these pristine as possible.
If you try it let us know how it works.

Have been fooling with other medias and finishes looking for unusual results.
Here is a cropped HDR print on copper.
I pushed the blacks so my 9900 would lay some extra black ink.
Allowing only one day to dry instead of two leaves the black still tacky.
A great way to make a crackle finish is to spray the Krylon or Clearstar (Solvent finishes) over the image before the black is completely dry.
You get a beautiful crackled finish. Well maybe not beautiful to everyone. Smiley
« Last Edit: April 01, 2011, 11:47:20 AM by Dan Berg » Logged

stefano
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« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2011, 11:11:59 AM »
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Dan,
Beautiful image, and a great inspirational post for more experimental inkjet photography! Thanks for sharing your progress in this area. I am still learning what my new 4900 can do on paper and canvas, but I am definitely going to experiment with metals! I just got some ink aid in the mail, and I am looking for a good local source of suitable  aluminum, copper or steel sheeting... And of time off from my other commitments so that I can play!

Keep them coming!

Stefano
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Damir
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« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2011, 06:47:03 PM »
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Great imageas and techniques!

I am going really slow in this area, difficult to find supples here in Croatia, I spent several weeks just to find usable aluminium plates, the used ofset printer plates in 13 x 19 in size.

I promised to post some reproductions, but my studio is still busy with other projects. You are so happy that you easily can have whatever you need for experiments.

At first I was using my HP ProB 9180, now I switched to Hp DJ Z3100 really works great. Inks obviously dries much faster than Epson one, in an hour or two, depends on how much ink is laid for picture. I really love those "alternative" techniques, 15 years ago when inkjet printers was not available I was playing with Colour copy transfers, you can see some of my works here:

http://www.fot-o-grafiti.hr/novosti/savjeti/cct-colour-copy-transfer

I made transfers not only on paper but also on non glazed cheramic and wood. As I made photos with films, I combine that with liquid photographic emulsion over the transfer which gave me mixed colour and black and white image on same paper. I got partialy desaturated images before Photoshop  Cheesy

I am so happy that inkjet printers bring back experiments with different techniques.
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neile
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« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2011, 09:38:19 PM »
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Damir,

See if you can find somewhere that supplies local engravers with aluminum. It's a good way to get clean aluminum that's protected with a film of plastic. Presumably even Croatia has engravers who need stuff like this!

Neil
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Neil Enns
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davidh202
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« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2011, 09:38:44 PM »
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Really like that Dan!
 I'm wondering why your not using copper sheeting directly and eliminating the painting part.
I just found a real good source for copper sheet in assorted sizes and gauges.
 
http://basiccopper.com/copper-sheet--rolls.html
They also have different patinas !
Have you tried any on Brass?

This site has some real interesting 5 mil stuff but only in 12" wide sizes.
http://www.whimsie.com/aluminum%20foil.html#anchor67630
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Dan Berg
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« Reply #10 on: April 03, 2011, 04:08:30 AM »
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Thanks folks.

David,
I had a whole sheet of .028 copper cut into a half dozen different print sizes. The second print of the flowers above is on copper.
In this case I was trying for a finish that would make the rust stand out a little more. Most of my alternative printings are tests for eventual workshop demonstrations.
Some finishes work really well and look fantastic. Others,not so good.
Have not tried brass to date as I am still recouping from the cost of the full sheets of copper,aluminum and stainless.
I think the sheet copper was around $6.50 a square foot plus the cutting charges,compared to a $1.00 for aluminum.

Thanks for the link as I am interested in comparing their square foot pricing to mine.
The 5mil or .005 copper you mention is pretty thin almost like a foil. It still should work with a proper backing attached after printing.
Thats about 80% thinner then my copper.  Athough printable it can be very hard to handle without damaging.
I just looked at your link for the copper supplier. 2 -12x12  22 mil copper sheets for $44.99,ouch! At $22.50 a square foot thats a little pricy.
As expensive as copper is these days 22 mil is probably not necessary. The 16 mil and 10 mil they offer would  work fine.

I promise this is the last one. Wink
Another stainless print with Krylon stone pebble and topcoated with Krylon satin.
The first one I did came out really dark with the Booksmart metal profile. I adjusted the brightness on this one accordingly.






« Last Edit: April 03, 2011, 08:24:02 AM by Dan Berg » Logged

framah
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« Reply #11 on: April 03, 2011, 12:52:30 PM »
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Here's a thought... how about spraying some photo mount spray onto a sheet of mat board and then lay down the .005 copper onto that and then send that thru the printer.
This way you have a more stable base to run thru the printer. Then you can just peel it off.

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mstevensphoto
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« Reply #12 on: April 11, 2011, 03:09:50 PM »
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Dan,
    I really dig that last one! I hope this isn't too outside of the scope of the discussion, but do you have a favorite source for ready to print metals? I love that you're doing all of the custom creative in prepping your materials, but I am not sure I have the brains or time to make that work. Also, do you have any concerns about these processes being hard on your machine in any way?
thanks for sharing!
Mark
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Dan Berg
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« Reply #13 on: April 11, 2011, 06:22:14 PM »
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Mark,
Horizonsisg.com is one source,another is Booksmartstudio.com.
Prices can range from $13 to $16 a square foot. If your just doing a few the time savings may be worth the extra money spent on ready to print materials.
If you do not set your platen to its widest and take a head strike you could certainly damage something.
I have 2 head strikes to date and so far no problems. I check and recheck that platen setting every time.
My 7900 and 9900 will only print borderless on certain widths,so their always seems to be some sort of border issue.
Since most of my metal mounts are frameless I dislike the squared off standard borders on metal. One solution is "Photo Frame" from On One Software. Pictured on all 3 of the above prints.

« Last Edit: April 11, 2011, 06:23:50 PM by Dan Berg » Logged

neile
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« Reply #14 on: April 11, 2011, 09:11:08 PM »
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I just got my sample pack of Alumajet. It's beautiful stuff. Perfectly coated and ready to print in pristine condition. Far better than anything I've been able to do via hand-coating my own aluminum using InkAid and a brush (as in I could actually sell something to a client using the Alumajet, something I haven't been able to do with my self-coated stuff).

Neil
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Neil Enns
Dane Creek Folio Covers. Limited edition Tuscan Sun and Citron covers are now in stock!
Dan Berg
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« Reply #15 on: April 11, 2011, 09:21:51 PM »
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Neil,
Thanks for the report. I agree if you are marketing metal prints it is extremely important to have a more pristine surface to print on then what you can get with Ink Aid.
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Light Seeker
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« Reply #16 on: May 03, 2011, 04:28:16 PM »
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Neil,
Thanks for the report. I agree if you are marketing metal prints it is extremely important to have a more pristine surface to print on then what you can get with Ink Aid.

Neil / Dan, what issue(s) are you are finding with the InkAid surfaces as compared to the Alumajet / Booksmart prepared media?

Terry.
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Dan Berg
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« Reply #17 on: May 03, 2011, 04:53:02 PM »
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The inkaid dries quite slowly which enables dust to settle and dry in the finish. The lighter the coats the better.
A very clean area matched with the light coats and you should be able to get a pretty nice surface. Still nothing like the precoated metal but good enough.
Too much dust just rinse it off with warm water and recoat. Thats the nice thing about Inkaid on metal. You can recoat as many times as you like. Don't like the image,rinse and recoat.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2011, 04:54:48 PM by Dan Berg » Logged

artbot
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« Reply #18 on: May 03, 2011, 04:58:06 PM »
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when i do aqueous coatings, a light sanding with trizact will get it buttery smooth without leaving any marks.
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Light Seeker
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« Reply #19 on: May 03, 2011, 05:07:24 PM »
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The inkaid dries quite slowly which enables dust to settle and dry in the finish.

What about spraying it vertically using a Wagner (or better) HVLP?

Terry.
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