Don't know if this helps, but given the quality of your MFDB, I wouldn't hesitate to print bellow 200dpi. I am not familiar with the OCE, I own an Epson 9000 myself and the size is restricted to 112cm there, but I do much printing using all its width as the smaller side of the print which sometimes is cropped, I've come to the conclusion that the natural "upsampling" of the plotter does a better job than upsampling the file. My back is the Imacon 528c with which I do painting reproduction in microstep (16x) and print in on canvas at 1:1 with the original, thus the output is of similar size with yours, thus I thought my findings may apply (?) to your needs as well. One thing I've noticed though is that when printing from files of my D700 and compare with the same size print from my D7K, the print is clearly better from the D700, this led me to conclude that printing from better pixel definition is of more quality that resolution as such. Regards, Theodoros. www.fotometria.gr
Just a P.S. to the above: Here is the rules I have come up to now (without abandoning the case that it will change in the future), out of testing and outcome experience:
1. High quality printing is from 16 TIFF converted from a 16 bit RAW, I never print (my pictures) in JPG.
2. I never up-sample or down-sample a file, unless it drops down to 72dpi.
3. I never put a paper in "production", unless the material's profile is not of 98% accuracy (it can't be measured - its a personal judgement). To "built" the profile, I use the I-One as a first calibration and then "retune" and then again and again..., using "past analog experience".
4. If a print drops below 72dpi and there is need to keep the image size, I print it on 720dpi (with 2880 on the plotter), no matter the size that print will shrink and then reshoot the print at 16x-microstep or scan it at 4800dpi (choice depends on my judgement of DR that the print contains).
5. The screen from which the print should be judged should be of the highest quality and with optimum calibration. I personally use the Eizo GM 241 (I have the profile retuned from the manufacturers one), there are a few more of its standards.
6. Stitching captures is the best method of up-sampling, thus my next investment is the Kapture group stitching adapter (contax back fit) for my recently purchased FujiGX680 system, my other being the Contax 645 from where I share the back.
I hope this helps, it 's all based on my believe that a photograph is only the printed thing on paper (never the screen image) and that the photographer should visualize the final print before capture, let me know what you think, Regards Theodoros. www.fotometria.gr