Epson 3880, Platen Gap versus Paper Thickness

[Steve House]

So what is the difference between these two settings?  What are the implications of each for a print job with a particular paper?  The paper thickness setting can be determined by measuring the paper with a micrometer and setting the parameter accordingly but how does one determine the optimum platen gap setting?

[Alan Goldhammer]

See Eric Chan's table and make your adjustment accordingly.

[Idololab]

 Hi all
Anybody knows the difference?

[Steve House]

See Eric Chan's table and make your adjustment accordingly.

  That decodes the names of the settings into number but still doesn't provide guidance on choosing a setting that is compatible with a given paper stock.  For instance, Canson Platine is ~0.43mm thick when I measure it with a micrometer so rounding up, an appropriate paper thickness number would be 5.  But what does that tell me, if anything, about the corresponding platen gap setting?  The Espon documentation says one might use a wider setting when using think media but just what do they mean bu "thick?"

[howardm]

the total adjustment range of the paper thickness setting is 1.5mm (in 0.1mm increments) max so perhaps it's a rough (gap) /fine (thickness) adjustment
and in reality you may not usually need to mess w/ thickness, just select a bigger gap.

[AFairley]

I would say to set the paper thickness and choose the narrowest platen gap that will allow you to print without head strikes or similar problems.  That would be a trial and error process, I would say. 

[Wayne Fox]

Paper thickness adjusts the transport mechanism to allow for the media. This places the head at the optimum distance from the surface of the media. The platen widens the gap between the head and the paper.  Setting it wider rarely shows an issue with quality and can be helpful with paper that is not flat, especially if the sides tend to curl. Normally setting a wider platen gap is something to try when head strikes are an issue.

[abiggs]

Paper thickness adjusts the transport mechanism to allow for the media. This places the head at the optimum distance from the surface of the media. The platen widens the gap between the head and the paper.  Setting it wider rarely shows an issue with quality and can be helpful with paper that is not flat, especially if the sides tend to curl. Normally setting a wider platen gap is something to try when head strikes are an issue.

I have found that as I increase the platen gap I do see a decrease in acuity, and it is definitely noticeable.

[Wayne Fox]

I have found that as I increase the platen gap I do see a decrease in acuity, and it is definitely noticeable.

I agree on some papers, especially the higher end gloss papers, but then I rarely need to use a wider platen gap on those.  Generally I've found I need to widen the gap on things like canvas and some textured art papers, and in those cases I really can't see much of a difference.

Certainly there is no need to widen the platen unless there are issues.

[eleanorbrown]

I bought a brand new 3880 two weeks ago specifically to put Jon Cone glossy Piezo inks in.  Without going into a lot of miserable detail (trying every combination of settings in both back manual and front manual load to make these inks work with this printer I have come to the conclusion that rear manual load is not a viable option because of the pizza wheel marks (ink image layer is not really "dry" until the second layer of gloss optimizer is applied.  When both these layers of printed inks go under the pizza wheels they get wheel marks on prints that have mid and darker smooth areas of tone.  Thus the remaining option is front load which is problematic in itself when printing on fiber bases fine art papers (glossy).  First and foremost the front load images, while not having pizza wheel marks, are never as finely detailed as rear manual load due the fact that alignment is done using read loading only.  I've tried putting the paper on 2 ply matte board as per Eric Chan's suggestion but prints with very fine details still don't have that fine dot placement as manual back load does.  There are also other issues with putting rag fine art papers on 2 ply  board with front load because I've had the paper buckle up just a little, catch on the printer parts, or print head...have the head knocked waaayyy out of line, etc...The front load is really designed to thick media and anything else creates issues with print quality or damage to my brand new printer.

I finally put the epson inks back in the printer but at some point would like the try the Piezography glossy inks again if I can find a solution with the 3880.  ANY suggestions would be really welcome!! Thanks! Eleanor