Profile editing is rarely the best solution for a problem. I think better questions might be "Why am I getting an abundance of saturation?" and "How else (besides profile editing) can I get the results I desire?"
Care to describe the problem you're having in more detail? Are you're sure it's the new profile that's incorrect - not the old one? Or is it that the simulation profile needs to be remade?
Dear Scott,
I'm currently working on a project for this photographer who shoots wet plate. We scanned his glass negs and reproduce the tonality in photoshop which is not a pure mono tone image. The color between highlights and the shadow are slightly shifted into either magenta or green. This is a very critical job. Because the differential of the color and the color appearance supposedly bare can see, so it is something you really have to pay a lot of attention to make them correct. After a year later, now I have to reprint them, I have the original print which I printed it as well sitting right next to me. The new profile wasn't that bad but the saturation just a bit higher than before. Since I don't want to touch the file, that's why I'm thinking of to tweak the new profile to match the old one to produce the same result that I used to get from the same printer, 8300. Of course I can re-print a target with more color and gray scale patches in it to see if my profile is bad or not, but with my own test image, I see nothing wrong from it.
Wet plate color is something, it is super headache job, those tiny bit of magenta light brown and tiny bit of green dark muddy color.
Aaron