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Author Topic: Sony RX100...  (Read 47262 times)
ErikKaffehr
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« Reply #160 on: November 28, 2012, 11:45:41 AM »
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Hi,

You will get the best DR if you expose at the lowest ISO fully to the right. Reason is that you want to utilize the full well capacity of the sensor optimally.

I'm pretty sure that the drop at 100 ISO is a red herring, but I cannot explain it.

Best regards
Erik

Bill Claff's data shows that the photographically useful dynamic range is as follows:

 - ISO 81 ... 8.73 stops
 - ISO 100 ... 8.41 stops
 - ISO 126 ... 8.71 stops

http://home.comcast.net/~nikond70/Charts/PDR.htm
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jeremypayne
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« Reply #161 on: December 04, 2012, 06:41:12 AM »
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I'm pretty sure that the drop at 100 ISO is a red herring, but I cannot explain it.

Best regards
Erik

I've got a hunch that ISOs 80 and 100 are gonna turn out to be the red herrings.

I just gotten my replacement RX100 - Sony was nice enough to simply exchange it for me - and intend to do some research when I get the time ... it may not be until the 1st week of January that I do, but eventually I'll do my own analysis and get back to y'all.


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thierrylegros396
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« Reply #162 on: December 04, 2012, 11:06:33 AM »
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Could you also tell us if it's still 1.0 Firmware ?!
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AlfSollund
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« Reply #163 on: December 05, 2012, 11:30:16 AM »
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Thanks for all infomation shared.

Anyone tried to use charger for mobile phone with usb connector (such as Samsung)? Anyone tried any lens hood/filters, in paricular pola.

Thanks!
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- If your're not telling a story with photo you're only adding noise -
http://alfsollund.com/
AFairley
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« Reply #164 on: December 05, 2012, 12:08:08 PM »
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Thanks for all infomation shared.

Anyone tried to use charger for mobile phone with usb connector (such as Samsung)? Anyone tried any lens hood/filters, in paricular pola.

Thanks!

I've used a bunch of usb power out wall warts, if it will charge a phone, it will charge the camera.  As will the computer's usb although it will take longer b/c of lower amperage.
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thierrylegros396
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« Reply #165 on: January 31, 2013, 01:04:11 PM »
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Complete French Manual is available in html (Zip) and as an .exe file.

See French website.

Thierry
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risedal
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« Reply #166 on: February 01, 2013, 09:04:25 AM »
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Hi,

You will get the best DR if you expose at the lowest ISO fully to the right. Reason is that you want to utilize the full well capacity of the sensor optimally.

I'm pretty sure that the drop at 100 ISO is a red herring, but I cannot explain it.

Best regards
Erik


It depends little bit of the camera, for example a 5dmk3 you can underexpose little bit , the ratio between Signal  and Noise is almost the same in 100 and 200iso. At the same time you are under exposing you create a head room and can adjust / rolling in the high light softer with your own curves.
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thierrylegros396
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« Reply #167 on: February 01, 2013, 10:19:53 AM »
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Yes, but LR is so good in "highlight recovery" that you frankly may use ISO80 !

Higher ISO are only interresting when you need higher speed.

Thierry
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risedal
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« Reply #168 on: February 01, 2013, 05:03:00 PM »
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Yes, but LR is so good in "highlight recovery" that you frankly may use ISO80 !

Higher ISO are only interresting when you need higher speed.

Thierry
you are closer to clipping, and the estimations of  true colors in the high lights will not be so exact as with a small head room
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thierrylegros396
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« Reply #169 on: February 02, 2013, 01:31:35 PM »
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You are right, but most of the time it's not a real problem.

Exposition is very often a shadows-highlights tradeoff  Wink

Choose the right one Wink Wink
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risedal
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« Reply #170 on: February 02, 2013, 06:40:11 PM »
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You are right, but most of the time it's not a real problem.

Exposition is very often a shadows-highlights tradeoff  Wink

Choose the right one Wink Wink

it  depends also which camera you are using, d800 you can expose after high lights and adjust middle tones, low levels
with a Canon you have to  chose your exposure more carefully
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mac_paolo
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« Reply #171 on: February 03, 2013, 03:35:05 AM »
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I recently came back from a trip in Dolomites.
What can I say is that RX100 tends to badly underexpose in bright sun with snow all around, much more than newest DSLR and somewhat like old film bodies.
I often had to overexpose by at least a full stop in order to have a proper histogram.

Shooting Raw is not easy to understand what is still not clipped and what it is. I decided not to risk that much and keep some underexposures.

ISO 125 is not a problem. With RX100 you can shoot with quite small apertures without affecting the IQ that much, since the sensor is quite large.
1/2000th of a second at ƒ/5.6 and it's almost impossible to blow highlights, even with the whiter snow, fully lit by the sun.

With high contrast scenes, like deep into a forest with spots of lit snow here and there, it tends to overexpose a bit too much, so I had to lower the bias more than my DSLR.
Here ISO 125 is mandatory to try to get back some details in the shadow without starting a noise party.
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DanielStone
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« Reply #172 on: February 03, 2013, 04:58:07 AM »
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I recently came back from a trip in Dolomites.
What can I say is that RX100 tends to badly underexpose in bright sun with snow all around, much more than newest DSLR and somewhat like old film bodies.
REMEMBER: a light meter is designed to recognize (1) value, that being 18% grey. If you have a scene which is predominately white, then the meter will tell you to expose it to render as neutral grey(18%). YOU have to manually adjust the exposure(or if it has an exposure compensation dial) so the nice, brightly lit white snow reads as such. This, in my experience, usually means approximately +1.5 to +2 stops over your meter reading(reflective off of the snow).
I often had to overexpose by at least a full stop in order to have a proper histogram.
see my answer above
Shooting Raw is not easy to understand what is still not clipped and what it is. I decided not to risk that much and keep some underexposures.
This generally a good idea, so you can adjust/fine-tune it to a proper density in post.
ISO 125 is not a problem. With RX100 you can shoot with quite small apertures without affecting the IQ that much, since the sensor is quite large.
1/2000th of a second at ƒ/5.6 and it's almost impossible to blow highlights, even with the whiter snow, fully lit by the sun.

With high contrast scenes, like deep into a forest with spots of lit snow here and there, it tends to overexpose a bit too much, so I had to lower the bias more than my DSLR.
Here ISO 125 is mandatory to try to get back some details in the shadow without starting a noise party.
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mac_paolo
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« Reply #173 on: February 03, 2013, 09:45:49 AM »
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[...]
Thanks Daniel but, I even teach photography, I quite know that Smiley
Evaluative metering (since 2006 or so…) knows what a bright scene is and doesn't meter for 18% grey, since lit snow is -much- more than a single stop above medium grey.
It's just that any camera for any brand behaves differently. This is how the RX100 behaves in this context.
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thierrylegros396
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« Reply #174 on: February 26, 2013, 11:54:55 AM »
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Hi to all,

Just discovered that RX1 has some tint issue in Imaging Ressource : http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2013/02/01/latest-from-the-ir-labsony-rx1-tint-problem-a-sneak-peak-at-camera-tests

That explain the tint issues I have with RX100 especially when shooting snow Landscape.

RX1 is software corected, but it seems that RX100 is not at all, or not enough corrected.

Sadly, there is no real tool in LR or DXO to correct that tint shift.

Hope Sony will cure it in a new firmware.

Have a Nice Day.

Thierry
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