Phase One IQ Live View Question

[kmeyers]

When I believe that I'm focused on an image using either the ground glass on an alpa 12 stc or using a laser distometer I make an image and if I zoom to 100% on review or if I try to focus using live view, the images seem soft in the 100% crop view.  Am I asking for too much out of the screen or should I be able to see a tack sharp image cropped to 100% on the screen on the back? I'm so used to using LF cameras, I don't have a lot of confidence in my new gear.

-Ken

[Dick Roadnight]

When I believe that I'm focused on an image using either the ground glass on an alpa 12 stc or using a laser distometer I make an image and if I zoom to 100% on review or if I try to focus using live view, the images seem soft in the 100% crop view.  Am I asking for too much out of the screen or should I be able to see a tack sharp image cropped to 100% on the screen on the back? I'm so used to using LF cameras, I don't have a lot of confidence in my new gear.

-Ken

However many or few pixels you have, it should look sharp at 100% on the screen... is this a digiback screen problem? does it look sharp at 100% on the computer screen?

I had this problem on my Silvestri sliding back... but using live view focusing should be spot on - how can it not be if you are focusing with the actual sensor and not a viewfinder/ground glass system?

Do the images look sharp anywhere anyhow?

Do you use digital lenses?

Does this happen with different lenses?

Has the lens been dropped?

Take several shots at different focus settings as if for DoF merge... photograph a carpet, brick obliquely etc...

[dchew]

Ken,
I have exactly the same experience.  In general I've given up on live view.  In my opinion using the HPF rings / Disto is a more efficient process (just as accurate and faster).  I switched from a Canon 5DII, which has a really sweet live view.  When focused it is like the screen shows moire; tack sharp.

As strange as it sounds you might try zooming in more than 100%.  200-400 does not pixelate like you would think.  Some people use the IQ live view religiously.  I found I could not reliably tell if the image was getting sharper if I moved the focus ring a smidge.  Now with the new Alpa tilt options for wide angles I just might have to give it another go.

You might try the GetDPI forum.  There are many core users of technical cameras there, and a few past discussions on this topic.

Ciao,
Dave

[Paul2660]

Live view on a IQ can work, but I have found that as the others posted, it's conditions are very limited. 

If you are outdoors in any type of light, then you will need to stop down the lens and possibly add a ND 16 just to get the screen
to where you can view it without massive amounts of blooming.  Of course if your lens has any type of focus shift which a few of the
Schneider and Rodenstocks do, (especially the older non HR series), then there is no point as what you get in live view will not be
the same. 

Even indoors live view is pretty worthless.  It takes way to long to adjust, blooms and just eats up a battery.  The only time I use it
is if I am working on a subject that may be within 15 feet or so. 

Since I moved over to a tech camera, I also use a laser rangefinder, Not a distro, but a much cheaper but just as accurate Opti-Logic brand.
insight 400 XT.  great range and dead on accurate, 15 feet to 1200 feet. 

The IQ screen will easily confirm focus when viewed at 100%, either by use of the focus mask, or just viewing.  It's so quick now with the
latest firmware to zoom in, 100%, spot your corners, and center, verify focus and shoot. 

I don't think Phase will have a work able practical live solution until they move to CMOS, and not sure when or if they plan to.

Paul

[Dick Roadnight]

I think Sinar are the only manufacturers of live view systems that work well in daylight... with their LCD shutter system. ( I am looking forward to using mine)

[kmeyers]

I have been that concerned with using live view whatsoever until last weekend out and I was out fooling around and so far I have been mostly making images that were further away (landscapes, urban decay etc.). I was walking around with my camera and came upon an interesting flower and I set up with my alpa 12 stc with the tilt shift adapter and my 120 macro lens. I was approx 4 feet away from the subject. I focused with the ground glass and felt that I had it focus. I made the shot. I checked on the live view. It looked ok. I zoomed to 100% and it looked a bit soft, and I figured I was expecting too much from the little screen. Got home put the image in C1 and sure enough, it is not critically focused where is should be.  I'm coming to this Alpa/Phase system from 15+ years of 8x10 where I feel at home. I have a lack of confidence in my new gear and I'm halfway thinking of selling it all and scanning 8x10 negs..... I will give it some more time, but I'm curious if other have had the same experience.

[Paul2660]

I focused with the ground glass and felt that I had it focus. I made the shot. I checked on the live view. It looked ok. I zoomed to 100% and it looked a bit soft, and I figured I was expecting too much from the little screen. Got home put the image in C1 and sure enough, it is not critically focused where is should be.  I'm coming to this Alpa/Phase system from 15+ years of 8x10 where I feel at home. I have a lack of confidence in my new gear and I'm halfway thinking of selling it all and scanning 8x10 negs..... I will give it some more time, but I'm curious if other have had the same experience.

I consider Live View use  is before the shot, what you are describing is the after shot preview on the LCD.  I misunderstood.  I feel that the LCD screen is totally accurate when viewed for focus checking.  If you see the image as soft on the screen it will be soft.
I have confirmed this 100's of times.  Coming from a P45+ the LCD on the IQ is one of the key reasons I upgraded (besides the excellent DR the 160 has) .  It's a wonderful feedback tool for checking a image in the field.  For Focus, exposure, tilt, etc.  It's just not very good for "live view" before the shot where you could compose and check focus.  Outside in the field I never use Live view, but am very conscious of the LCD's feedback after the shot and rely on it 100% for my work.  For a macro shot as you described did you have the focus mask on?  If not try it, it's
very good on a macro shot. 

Paul

[dchew]

Ken,
The focus mask works well much of the time.  That is what I use to ensure I got it right.  Mine is set at 70.  I agree with Paul; after the fact review should appear sharp. 

It takes some time to develop a robust process in the field.  Took me 6-12 months, but I don't shoot that much.  Also took me several times to get the back shimmed correctly.  Don't believe what they say about all the lenses being calibrated precisely.  I have four lenses and one (the 100HR-S) was off; I had to move the focus scale to match the other three.  I am at the point now where I don't even check sharpness; the disto/hpf is dead on for me.  Of course using tilt is a different story!  I focus bracket a lot.  It might look and feel like a sloppy workflow, but it is pretty quick.

Dave

[kmeyers]

I appreciate all the input. I need to mess around a bunch more to get everything dialed in.  Does anyone know a technician I can ship my gear to and make sure everything is dialed in exactly.  I believe I have my back shimmed correctly, but have not tested all the lenses. I'm not sure that I'm up to it either...

[dchew]

Ken,
Just sent you a pm.  It is not too bad of a process; perhaps I can help.  Big question is who is your dealer?

Dave