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Author Topic: Anyone using Canon IPF8300 for fine art repro on canvas and paper?  (Read 2352 times)
Roscolo
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« Reply #20 on: July 18, 2012, 06:06:03 PM »
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I would never use the HP "Premium Satin" or "Premium Gloss" on any printer after I tested rolls of it. It's got the ugliest white base color I've ever seen ( next to Hahnemuhle Fine Art Baryta, that is pink).


j


I've found the HP Prem ID Satin to be outstanding for B&W work. I've printed B&W large format work on that paper at 40"x50", framed, awesome. Wilhelm shows amazing longevity of the HP inks on the HP Satin. Hope I can run it through the Canon because I just bought an ipf8300. Curious how my B&W's will look printed on the Canon as opposed to the z3100. Guess I'll be finding out soon enough.
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deanwork
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« Reply #21 on: July 19, 2012, 12:55:54 PM »
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You need the True Black and White software for the Canon and you need an Eye One to relinearze one of the existing curves for gloss papers. That is essential I see after doing it.

Then you have something as good or better than the Hp for BW.

Wilhelm's tests for these papers are a distortion. What Wilhelm has not done, and he knows better, is to show how the oba content of these inexpensive papers totally change the color of the paper base as well as the high values of all the hues. He does tell you to stay from papers with a lot of oba, but that is NOT reflected in his "years of display" but in a tiny little footnote down at the bottom of the test chart.

 If you don't believe me go to Aardenburg Imaging, the only place where it is done right, and compare all of these gloss papers and you will see how poorly all of the HP gloss papers are holding up compared to Epson Luster, Canon Satin, Ilford Gallerie, Canson Baryta, Harmon Baryta. There is a very big difference and you'd never see that on Wilhelm's site. He still gives good ratings to Epson Enhanced Matte that we know fails very quickly in daylight.  Anything as bluish as the HP "Premium" Satin is going to go gray, it just will.

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Roscolo
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« Reply #22 on: July 19, 2012, 02:33:25 PM »
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You need the True Black and White software for the Canon and you need an Eye One to relinearze one of the existing curves for gloss papers. That is essential I see after doing it.

Then you have something as good or better than the Hp for BW.



6 years in and all my prints on HP Prem ID Satin look great. Some displayed behind regular (not museum) glass getting some sunlight. Some just in clear bags getting some indirect sunlight. Some kept in drawers.

Bowhaus says they will make a Windows version of the True Black and White, so hopefully that is true and not too far out. Was tough call to not get a z3200, but looking forward to getting to know the ipf8300.
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georgek
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« Reply #23 on: July 20, 2012, 04:23:02 AM »
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Also, the i1Profiler application that XRite is selling now has a better profiling engine than the one included with the HP printers (which is based on the older ProfileMaker engine).

Z3100 based on profilemaker engine, Z3200 on monaco.
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Ernst Dinkla
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« Reply #24 on: July 20, 2012, 05:18:12 AM »
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Z3100 based on profilemaker engine, Z3200 on monaco.

Right, and the Z3200 Color Center version (HP developed) that is integrated with all Z3200s is as good as, if not better than that APS version for the Z3200.
In my opinion.


--
Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst

340+ paper white spectral plots:
http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm
update april 2012: Harman by Hahnemühle, Innova IFA45 and more
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aaronchan
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« Reply #25 on: July 20, 2012, 06:57:29 AM »
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I have both Z3200 and iPF8300
I don't really like the Z3200 due to the limitation of paper choice, most of the very thick paper won't be able to print without head strikes. Also the speed is very slow. So I use my 8300 for almost all of my clients.
But when it comes to matte paper that could feed into the Z3200 correctly, I will use it, specially for B&W images.

But still, 8300 can do everything that I need to and my clients want to.

aaron
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deanwork
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« Reply #26 on: July 21, 2012, 09:36:47 AM »
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That's interesting. I've used nothing but thick papers and canvas through my Z3100 for 5.5 years and I don't experience head strikes. I think that has something to do with the star wheel assembly adjustment or possibly even the firmware that controls it. The only time I've ever had a head strike is with the fiber gloss media toward the end of the roll that is curling badly. That happens.
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