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Author Topic: Sigma DP2 Merrill Experiences  (Read 241462 times)
thomas turnbull
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« Reply #920 on: April 06, 2013, 11:40:46 AM »
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I've got a problem and would be grateful for any help in dealing with it.

My DP2M froze yesterday while upgrading to firmware 1.04. The battery was fresh, the firmware was on an sd card, the card in the camera and I'd navigated to the install firmware position of the menu. The first section of the upgrade had been successful, but while the second one was being processed, the screen went dark, all controls were inoperative, the lighted green circle around the on/off switch was steady and it stayed that way until the battery was exhausted!

I do have another fully charged battery but didn't want to perpetuate the symptoms or possibly damage the camera by starting something up before the upgrade had actually finished. Sigma is closed for the weekend and the weather is nice and sunny....

(OTOH, I've got lots of unprocessed files and SPP 5.5.1 to learn!)

Thanks in advance for any help and all the best to each of you,

Irenaeus

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timberry
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« Reply #921 on: April 06, 2013, 05:39:03 PM »
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Ynys Llanddwyn by Tim Berry, on Flickr
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L-R
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« Reply #922 on: April 06, 2013, 06:34:04 PM »
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Omni Hotel, Houston.
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L-R
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« Reply #923 on: April 06, 2013, 07:58:24 PM »
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Cactus bloom.
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BarbaraArmstrong
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« Reply #924 on: April 07, 2013, 03:26:02 AM »
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Timberry, quite lovely!! -- and much enhanced by the figures you included.  Many thanks for sharing this one.  --Barbara
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palpman
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« Reply #925 on: April 08, 2013, 05:03:51 AM »
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I've got a problem and would be grateful for any help in dealing with it.

My DP2M froze yesterday while upgrading to firmware 1.04. The battery was fresh, the firmware was on an sd card, the card in the camera and I'd navigated to the install firmware position of the menu. The first section of the upgrade had been successful, but while the second one was being processed, the screen went dark, all controls were inoperative, the lighted green circle around the on/off switch was steady and it stayed that way until the battery was exhausted!

I do have another fully charged battery but didn't want to perpetuate the symptoms or possibly damage the camera by starting something up before the upgrade had actually finished. Sigma is closed for the weekend and the weather is nice and sunny....

(OTOH, I've got lots of unprocessed files and SPP 5.5.1 to learn!)

Thanks in advance for any help and all the best to each of you,

Irenaeus



That doesn't sound good, I had a similar problem but the screen remained all white (overexposed). It crashed. I had to send it back for repair... Ii I were you I'd try to reload the last firmware if possible. If that doesn't work, you'll have to get it repaired.
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palpman
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« Reply #926 on: April 10, 2013, 12:35:54 PM »
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The results of last week-end's field trip with Hulyss:





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Hulyss
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« Reply #927 on: April 11, 2013, 05:52:10 PM »
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The results of last week-end's field trip with Hulyss:







Hope there is more to come dear Palpman because I know you did more !  Wink
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Kind Regards - www.hulyssbowman.com
Slobodan Blagojevic
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« Reply #928 on: April 11, 2013, 06:34:49 PM »
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Hope there is more to come dear Palpman...

Well... you already doubled his submission Tongue
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Slobodan

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mitchino
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« Reply #929 on: April 12, 2013, 09:47:21 AM »
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The results of last week-end's field trip with Hulyss:

I love image no.2, quite haunting and I don't know why!
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uvl
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« Reply #930 on: April 13, 2013, 04:13:57 AM »
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I have conducted a small non-scientific test of the manual color balance with my DP2M and the CBL color balance lens.
You can find the images in this flickr album.

WB settings with appended "n" have been neutralized by setting the white point with the eyedropper tool in SPP.

LED with adjustable color temperature at 5600 K:

This LED light is difficult to judge. It seems to fit "incandescent-n" best as the colors look more vivid and the table is less green. I think that the manual WB is more desaturated than the presets in SPP in almost all cases of artificial and mixed light as a continuous spectrum is probably achieved by muting the spikes of the histogram. Therefore it's maybe good to overexpose or expose for the shadows. I still elaborate on this.

LED with adjustable color temperature at 4400 K:

Strange spectrum. Greens seem to be well saturated. Other colors look good with magenta desaturated or underexposed. sunlight-n has better contrast. The wooden desktop looks more natural due to exaggerated warm colors.

LED with adjustable color temperature at 3200 K:

Manual looks better than auto. Both are terrible. Magenta looks orange. I would choose manual or tungsten-n with further adjustments in SPP. auto-n looks wrong.

Night scenes with many different lights:

I have included two night photos in the test as they are almost impossible to guess on location. These images look best with Custom WB. Look at the skin tone of the candy shop seller or the almost neutral pavement in the other shop compared to the other color balances. AWB doesn't work for this shots. Manual WB with the CBL even can reduce the yellow of the churches in the background. Most presets give either a color cast which cannot be neutralized in SPP or they exaggerate colors to a point there they become posterized/oversaturated. Even pink/magenta lights look good. This is different in the color target shots where those colors are skewed to orange or desaturated to a mild dusky pink.



Overcast daylight (cloud symbol):

Not bad with all WB-modes. Optimal light quality. No need for manual WB. Still a grey card or CBL is useful for finding a neutral grey.

Tungsten light + incandescent fluorescent light:

The results don't differ much from the pure tungsten examples as this was the main light. Tungsten-n looks best, is more vivid but is in fact oversaturated. Magenta shifts to orange. I have to rethink how to hold this CBL to reflect the situation I want to depict.

Tungsten light:

Manual WB looks better than AWB. Both look desaturated (or underexposed). Oversaturated red in tungsten-WB. Magenta looks orange. I would choose manual or auto-n with some saturation and exposure adjustments or vivid color mode in SPP or tungsten-n with neutral color mode.

On the CBL color balance lens (for those who asked):

It's not a lens but a white balance target which you can use like a grey card. I have done all the color target shots you can see on flickr with both - the CBL and a 20 year old greycard and I decided to post only the former as the differences were marginally.

Nethertheless the CBL seems to work for the night shots I did as it better reflects the overall lighting situation with it's built in prisms and mirrors. Additionally one can use the CBL as an neutral grey target. For mixed light or to balance color reflections from objects one can use the cone shaped rim of the white side. Depending on where you click with the eyedropper in SPP you can adjust color balance to colored light falling from one side or from another. Don't forget to do the real shot without the device ;

The 110mm CBL comes with a strap, a box and a even more beautiful pouch. There is a manual included but you better skip it

I don't use the strap and the box but the pouch perfectly fits a DP2M with the RRS handgrip. You can even put a DP3M in it.

The CBL cannot improve the physics of your camera. Look at the tungsten light results to get an idea of what is impossible. You need a certain amount of blue light for the Merrill cameras to work. If you want to have color in your subject look the same color in your photos you need to have light with this color falling on your subject. Otherwise colors come out quite differently.

I hope I'm not boring you.

Uwe 8-)
« Last Edit: April 14, 2013, 03:08:13 PM by uvl » Logged
palpman
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« Reply #931 on: April 13, 2013, 05:17:40 AM »
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Some more:





Impressionism:



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bwana
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« Reply #932 on: April 13, 2013, 09:54:38 AM »
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 Shocked Very nice. tnx. where was this? and yes, any advice on pp with SPP 5.5? do you blog about this somewhere?
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palpman
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« Reply #933 on: April 13, 2013, 01:08:42 PM »
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Thanks for the comments.

These were taken near St-Brieuc, France. Hyluss did give me some tips for SPP. I use SPP at first but if I want to do further processing I carry on with Nik (Silver or Color Efex). I don't blog about this, I'm actually doing my first steps with the DP2M... and I'm very happy with the results!
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kencameron
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« Reply #934 on: April 13, 2013, 05:22:40 PM »
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@palpman: Very fine work! Did you use the monochrome tab in SPP? Or, some other final processing like Lightroom or NIK?

It is indeed fine work. But maybe once is enough for it to be posted.
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mezzoduomo
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« Reply #935 on: April 13, 2013, 05:52:11 PM »
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It is indeed fine work. But maybe once is enough for it to be posted.

I shall trouble you no more....
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kencameron
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« Reply #936 on: April 13, 2013, 10:03:47 PM »
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I shall trouble you no more....
I hope you don't mean that literally. Absolutely no problem with the comment - I entirely agreed. But if we are going to repost shots whenever we comment on them, the thread will tend to get overwhelmed, especially when there are four large shots.
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Rand47
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« Reply #937 on: April 14, 2013, 12:27:15 PM »
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One of my favorite places from childhood . . .

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juan_amores
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« Reply #938 on: April 16, 2013, 08:16:31 AM »
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Any pics from a recent walk.


_SDI0769 por John Loves, en Flickr


_SDI0779 por John Loves, en Flickr


_SDI0790 por John Loves, en Flickr


_SDI0808 por John Loves, en Flickr


_SDI0819 por John Loves, en Flickr


_SDI0832 por John Loves, en Flickr


_SDI0834 por John Loves, en Flickr
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francois
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« Reply #939 on: April 19, 2013, 10:56:17 AM »
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Welcome on the forum!

This is a very nice image and the fog is perfect to let the viewer have a glimpse into Machu Pichu.
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Francois
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