Ad
Ad
Ad
Pages: [1]   Bottom of Page
Print
Author Topic: DSLR to 4x5 adapters  (Read 2456 times)
colwyn
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3


« on: November 04, 2012, 08:59:06 PM »
ReplyReply

Hello,
I recently bought the Nikon D800 and would like to find a way to attach it to my Sinar F1 field camera, so I can get the 4x5 movements and stitch massive files.  I'm wondering if anyone out there has direct experience with trying to do this?  If so what types of adapters are the best and what are some of the pitfalls to avoid when setting up such a system? 
I see that there are a few companies who design adapters.  I know Fotodiox http://fotodioxpro.com/ sells an adapter for grafloc backs for $300. Are there better set ups or is this as good as it gets? 

I assume that I'll have to get recessed lens boards and pick up used digital lenses for this rig.....the Rodenstock Apo Sironar Digital lenses come to mind.       Huh?

Thoughts?

Colwyn


Logged
HarperPhotos
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1006



WWW
« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2012, 11:26:23 PM »
ReplyReply

Hello,

This adaptor which could be useful for stitching.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x5-Large-Format-Camera-to-Nikon-D60-D700-D200-Adapter-/160437617201?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255ad3c231

Before you invest in the Rodenstock Apo Sironar Digital lenses I would suggest you consider this set up

http://www.komamura.co.jp/e/VCCpro/index.html

I use a older version of this Horseman VCC with my Nikon D800E and combined with the Rodenstock Apo Rodeogon and Rodenstock Rodeogon enlarging lenses which are optically superb and I have been told by a person it London who has had first hand communication with a tech at Rodenstock that they are optically better than the Rodenstock Apo Sironar Digital lenses. Also you can get them cheap as on EBay.

Cheers

Simon   
Logged

Simon Harper
Harper Photographics Ltd
http://www.harperphoto.com
http://www.facebook.com/harper.photographics

Auckland, New Zealand
Ray R
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 68


« Reply #2 on: November 05, 2012, 03:40:48 AM »
ReplyReply

I have a Canon 5Dmk2 and I made my own adapter for a Horseman 5x4.
I bought a cheap set of extension tubes (no need for any electronic connections) and made the mount fit a lens board that I already had.

The problem is that the sensor is some way back from the original film plane, depending on what lens you want to use, you may find
that if you want to use a wise angle lens you may not be able to focus at infinity.

I cannot focus a 68mm to infinity with a top hat lens board.
Logged
colwyn
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3


« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2012, 07:59:05 PM »
ReplyReply

Thanks for the quick responses!
I want to attach the D800 to my Sinar F1 because I already own a Sinar that would save me spending $1600+extras+small lenses with fewer movements than the F1.  I've researched both the Cambo X2 & Horseman VCC offerings.  
My reasons for buying the Rodenstock Apo Sironar Digital lenses or Schneider equivalents are twofold: 1.  I can get a larger image circle and also own lenses that can be used on a medium format rig.
I've used the Rodenstocks on a medium format rig before with great results.  

Do you think those lenses will work as well on a smaller 35mm full frame format too?
 
Although the Fotodiox has quite a few limitations, I like that it can slide around for stitching. Seeing I have an F1 that is not geared, an independent apparatus like the F-diox is crucial.  The bigest issues I see with it is its limited use of lenses....they say only 120mm+ for infinity focus. I have seen the Chinese knock-offs on ebay and have not read any reviews as to the quality of those.  Not sure if I want to take a chance on something that could be poorly machined and subpar on the quality side.

You got any other angles?
 

Thoughts?


« Last Edit: November 05, 2012, 08:06:52 PM by colwyn » Logged
Ellis Vener
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1375



WWW
« Reply #4 on: November 05, 2012, 08:22:59 PM »
ReplyReply

Hello,
I recently bought the Nikon D800 and would like to find a way to attach it to my Sinar F1 field camera, so I can get the 4x5 movements and stitch massive files.  I'm wondering if anyone out there has direct experience with trying to do this?  If so what types of adapters are the best and what are some of the pitfalls to avoid when setting up such a system? 
I see that there are a few companies who design adapters.  I know Fotodiox http://fotodioxpro.com/ sells an adapter for grafloc backs for $300. Are there better set ups or is this as good as it gets? 

I assume that I'll have to get recessed lens boards and pick up used digital lenses for this rig.....the Rodenstock Apo Sironar Digital lenses come to mind.       Huh?

Thoughts?

Colwyn

Hi Colwyn,

That is a nice dream isn't it? Unfortunately reality mitigates in many ways. I know because I tried  different hardware systems to do just that

Here are the problems:
1) physical limitations:
-a) the distance the sensor is located from the front of the camera body's lens mount - the depth of the mirror box plus the lens mount + the the depth of the adapter plate that fits the 4x5 plus the depth of the 4x5 frames and bellows  places limits on the range of focal lengths you can use. This is true even if you mount your lenses in a recessed board you can only get the rear element of the lens so close to the sensor.

-b) the closer you have the front and rear standards to each other the less movements you have becasue the bellows (and I recommned  wide angle "bag" bellows) will bind.

-c) the throat  - the mirror box + lens mount of the DSLR restricts how much you can shift either the lens or the camera before vignetting happens. This is less of an issue with shorter lens (75 to 120mm) than it is with longer focal length lenses because the shorter the focal length the smaller the movement needed to capture ares of the lenses image circle that are off axis. With the longer lenses it becomes a real issue quite quickly.  My experience was that this kind of hybrid works best with lenses in the 90-180mm range.

Lenses:

This may sound weird at first because we think of 4x5 asa high resolution format but as general rule lenses designed fora 4x5 camera do not have the resolution of lenses designed for medium and small capture formats. There are other optical issues as well but this is the big one. However there are some extraordinary 4x5 lenses. out there. The Schneider 110mm f/5.6 Super Symmar XL comes to mind.

So of the  systems that I tried what worked best?

First of all rulle out any system where you mount your DSLR to a plate that fits where your groundglass frame usually goes.  Of course if all you are shooting is small life where you have to deal with bellows extension in the first place by all means try it out.

The next best is a system which uses a custom made bellows that attaches directly to the lens mount of the DSLR and the DSLR mounts to the rear function carrier (Think Sinar P, P2 or p3 but not any of the Sinar F models ) in place of the rear frame.

The best system I tried was the old Cambo Ultima35. It was designed from the monorail up to incorporate a DSLR into a view camera chassis : http://www.cambo.com/Html/downloads/Linkedfiles/english/download/Item9/Ultima35-system.pdf

and the lenses that worked best for me were the Schneider Digitars.


In all cases however as soon as you start using shifts, tilts or swings your viewfinder becomes totally unusable - the optical path just isn't designed for the axis of the optical path to be at severe angles to the sensor -- and you have to rely on live view or shooting  tethered to see what you are doing.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but I experimented with multiple variations on the idea of fitting a DSLR to a 4x5 chassis over about a three to four  year period before giving up on the idea as being practical.

However don't just take my word for it. If it doesn't cost you a lot of money for a simple adapter it is worth trying as your needs are likely different from mine.
Logged

Ellis Vener
http://www.ellisvener.com
Creating photographs for advertising, corporate and industrial clients since 1984.
Ellis Vener
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1375



WWW
« Reply #5 on: November 05, 2012, 08:30:49 PM »
ReplyReply

When I tried my experiments the Fotodiox adapter ( http://tinyurl.com/csndgrm) was not available. It looks compelling especially as a way to shoot product in a studio where the light is constant between frames and there is no subject movement between frames.
Logged

Ellis Vener
http://www.ellisvener.com
Creating photographs for advertising, corporate and industrial clients since 1984.
colwyn
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3


« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2012, 09:27:00 PM »
ReplyReply

Thanks a lot for your insights!
I had a hunch that that road is filled with several disapointments.
I will call Fotodiox and see what they claim their plate is capable of.  In the big $300 isn't a tone of money if I can use it for a few things. I shoot mostly in doors under studio light anyway with a 150mm+210 lens.  I'll borrow a few digital Rodenstocks from a buddy who uses a CF39 dack on his P2 to see what it can do.  I'll also check how poorly it performs with my film 4 x 5 lenses.  If I can do %20 of my shooting with this set up I'll be very very happy.     

Thanks a million,   

Colwyn
 Undecided
Logged
uaiomex
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 817


WWW
« Reply #7 on: November 06, 2012, 12:21:11 PM »
ReplyReply

Thanks Ellis, superb find. As you said, this adapter seems to be trustworthy and the price is super right. If I only could figure it out how to attach it to my wooden Tachihara field camera.
Eduardo

When I tried my experiments the Fotodiox adapter ( http://tinyurl.com/csndgrm) was not available. It looks compelling especially as a way to shoot product in a studio where the light is constant between frames and there is no subject movement between frames.
Logged
BernardLanguillier
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6668



WWW
« Reply #8 on: November 06, 2012, 06:21:13 PM »
ReplyReply

Having tried that route as well years ago, my personal advise is to give up and try a good spherical stitching head or motorized head instead.

The only drawback is that you loose movements but depth of field stacking works well on static subjects (and can be automated it seems although I have not tried yet). It will end up being faster many times and scales much better.

Cheers,
Bernard
Logged

A few images online here!
Ellis Vener
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1375



WWW
« Reply #9 on: November 07, 2012, 02:39:33 PM »
ReplyReply

uaiomex,
While i'd love to take credit for that find it was Colwyn who pointed me to it. I just had to dig around on their site to find it.
Logged

Ellis Vener
http://www.ellisvener.com
Creating photographs for advertising, corporate and industrial clients since 1984.
Pages: [1]   Top of Page
Print
Jump to:  

Ad
Ad