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Author Topic: How to set up my i1 display 2, my prints are a bit yellow?  (Read 840 times)
Eric Brody
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« on: December 25, 2012, 10:13:42 PM »
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I have a Planar PX2411W monitor and the X-Rite eye-one display 2 calibration device which I'm using on a Mac Pro running OSX 10.7.5. My regular D800e prints on Moab Entrada Natural paper from my Epson 3800 are pretty close but tend to run just a bit yellow, whether looked at with or without soft proofing. I assume I want to make the monitor look like the print. I look at my prints in room light (halogen, unknown color temp), daylight, and also with a Solux bulb. It just seems I should be able to do a bit better since I have all this fancy equipment.
For my white point in the i1 Profiler D2 Lion Edition software, I can choose CIE Illuminant D50, 55, 65, or 75 as well as "native," "daylight temperature," xy or measure. The luminance is another issue. There seems to be no doubt that the recommended 120 is WAY too bright, even 100 is too bright.
I tried photographing my Color Checker Passport, setting the profile and white balance, and then making a print. The white patch looks close, but is still just a bit yellow.
Is there logic to this or is it basically a guessing game playing with monitor settings until it "looks right?" Will a new monitor help? Mine is about 5 years old but seems satisfactory. I can always use another excuse to spend more money :-)
Any thoughts, explanations, or other suggestions would be most appreciated.
Thanks.
Eric
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walter.sk
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« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2012, 11:18:36 AM »
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My regular D800e prints on Moab Entrada Natural paper from my Epson 3800 are pretty close but tend to run just a bit yellow, whether looked at with or without soft proofing. I assume I want to make the monitor look like the print. Eric
If there is nothing wrong with your profile and your prints come out a bit yellow, that may be the way white appears on that paper.  When you say this happens with or without softproofing you do not mention whether you then adjust your softproofed image to compensate as well as possible to make up for the characteristics of the paper.  If you don't do that, you are not utilizing the softproofing capabilities.

The idea is not to make the monitor look like the print, but to have a well calibrated and profiled monitor show you 1) the most accurate standard rendition of the colors in your image as you optimize the image, and then, 2) a softproofed view of your image showing you how it will print on the given paper and printer, which you then adjust as well as possible to *make the print look like what you see on the monitor.*
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digitaldog
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« Reply #2 on: December 26, 2012, 12:24:03 PM »
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http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/why_are_my_prints_too_dark.shtml

Alter temp for a yellow/blue axis bias. IF you can enter CCT Kelvin values, just add values until you get a visual match with proper print viewing conditions next to the display.
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Andrew Rodney
Author “Color Management for Photographers”
http://digitaldog.net/
Eric Brody
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« Reply #3 on: December 26, 2012, 01:13:48 PM »
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Hi Andrew,
I tried opening the profile, while I see lots of number strings for different axes, I am unable to modify them. Can you tell me how to do this and which axes I should change?
Thanks for all your helpful answers and your talk at Newspace in Portland last June.
Eric
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digitaldog
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« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2012, 03:32:03 PM »
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I tried opening the profile, while I see lots of number strings for different axes, I am unable to modify them. Can you tell me how to do this and which axes I should change?

Not the profile, you have to change the calibration aim points (the color temp for white) in the software and rebuild a NEW profile.
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Andrew Rodney
Author “Color Management for Photographers”
http://digitaldog.net/
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