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Author Topic: Why Leaf Shutter Lenses Matter  (Read 5996 times)
rjkern
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« on: January 09, 2013, 09:17:42 AM »
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Have you wondered how something as simple as a lens design might shape you approach to off-camera lighting? And what if that same lens could shape how light is recorded within a camera? Add to the bonus: this same lens might take what you already have and make it four times more effective?

Since there isn't much non-biased information on the web about using leaf shutter lenses, especially in light of high-speed sync, I took my best shot in writing the beginner's guide on my blog this morning.
Here's the blog post.

I figure, LS lenses are among the most important reasons I chose to jump to MF digital. And if we can bring about a greater awareness for the tool, generate more interest for our chosen medium, I deem that a good thing.

I welcome comments and am curious to hear technical refinements, if necessary.

Kind Regards,

RJ

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R. J. Kern
http://www.kern-photo.com - my blogsite and portfolio
LKaven
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« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2013, 10:21:06 AM »
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I like the daylight effect that you're getting a lot.  The subjects really pop.
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rjkern
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« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2013, 10:59:14 AM »
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Thanks, Luke!
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R. J. Kern
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FredBGG
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2013, 02:22:53 PM »
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I welcome comments and am curious to hear technical refinements, if necessary.

Kind Regards,

RJ



Quote
How do other cameras pair up with max flash-sync speed?

Nikon D70 (1/500), Nikon D700 (1/250), Nikon D4 (1/250), Nikon D600 (1/200)

Canon 5D (1/200), Canon 5D Mark III (1/200), Canon 6D (1/180)

Older-medium format cameras like Mamiya AFD & Contax 645 (1/125)

Hasselblad 500 C/M (1/500), Hasselblad H4D-40 (1/800), PhaseOne IQ series backs w/645DF (1/1600)


The D70 and D70s can reliably sync with strobes as high as 1/4000th thanks to the electronic second curtain.
With some strobes it can even do 1/8000th. Their is only loss of strobe power if the strobe is slower than the chosen
shutter speed (as would happen with any leaf shutter system). While this is a 6 MP camera it is the most versatile high speed sync camera with strobes and you are not
limited to a small amount of lenses.

The Fuji x10 can go up to 1/4000th.

Here is an example shot with the x100 with wireless sync and strobe.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulpridephoto/6890265956/




« Last Edit: January 09, 2013, 03:27:41 PM by FredBGG » Logged
jduncan
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2013, 02:31:36 PM »
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The D70 and D70s can reliably sync with strobes as high as 1/4000th thanks to the electronic second curtain.
With some strobes it can even do 1/8000th. Their is only loss of strobe power if the strobe is slower than the chosen
shutter speed. While this is a 6 MP camera it is the most versatile high speed sync camera with strobes and you are not
limited to a small amount of lenses.





Yes and a very old one. All this mechanics are getting in the way of electronics. I love the optical viewfinders and they are better than the EVF right now.
So was film better than old digital capture.  But the future seems, at this moment, to belong to mirror less cameras.

The Nikon 1 series is a good example, besides the crappy sensor, it's a fantastic performer in many ways.

Best regards,

J. Duncan
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FredBGG
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« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2013, 03:13:48 PM »
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There is an earlier thread that goes into high speed sync differences
between 35mm DSLRs, other MF cameras and the Mamiya leaf shutter lenses:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=71679.0

There are differences between using focal plane cameras and leaf shutter cameras.
Each have their advantages. For example doing this sort of technique you can get shallower depth of field with a DSLR in FP mode.

Also a recent development that will change things quite a bit is the development of Studio strobes that can flash like the Nikon and Canon Speedlights
so you get more efficient flash power usage. From what I have heard you lose only 50% of flash power at the fasted shutter speeds.
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stevebri
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« Reply #6 on: January 15, 2013, 10:44:58 AM »
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Fred,

your pocket wizards top out at 1/500th of a sec... lovely shot though... however you go it... Smiley

S
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yaya
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« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2013, 11:27:08 AM »
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Have you wondered how something as simple as a lens design might shape you approach to off-camera lighting? And what if that same lens could shape how light is recorded within a camera? Add to the bonus: this same lens might take what you already have and make it four times more effective?

Since there isn't much non-biased information on the web about using leaf shutter lenses, especially in light of high-speed sync, I took my best shot in writing the beginner's guide on my blog this morning.
Here's the blog post.

I figure, LS lenses are among the most important reasons I chose to jump to MF digital. And if we can bring about a greater awareness for the tool, generate more interest for our chosen medium, I deem that a good thing.

I welcome comments and am curious to hear technical refinements, if necessary.

Kind Regards,

RJ

Well written and comes with some very nice images, well done!

Yair
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Yair Shahar | Product Manager | Mamiya Leaf |
e: ysh@leaf-photography.com | m: +44(0)77 8992 8199 | www.mamiyaleaf.com | yaya's blog
FredBGG
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« Reply #8 on: January 15, 2013, 02:11:25 PM »
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Fred,

your pocket wizards top out at 1/500th of a sec... lovely shot though... however you go it... Smiley

S

Used in FP mode you can go to 1/8000th with the right studio flash.

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douglasboyd
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« Reply #9 on: January 15, 2013, 10:27:38 PM »
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Dear Fred,

I liked your picture and I used to be able to almost make such shots using Hasselblad H3DII at 1/800th.  Unfortunately I sold my Hasselblad and now use Nikon D800e.   I'm having trouble even getting decent fill outdoors (Las Vegas, and Hawaii) using Nikon SB900 flash.  Of course its virtually impossible to darken the sky and background as you have shown.  The FP (high-speed sync) mode works only out to a distance of 6-8 feet in sunlight.

I know there are excellent solutions using studio strobes with longer duration flash.  But I photograph mainly my wife and grandchildren when we are out walking around, and don't want to carry stands and studio lights.

It seems like there must be a solution for a camera mount flash.  If there is a portable flash unit with a 3 msec flash duration, that would be perfect.  I would mount it on a bracket and leave the SB900 or SB600 in place to set FP mode.  Alternatively, does anyone make a FP flash with approximately 4X more power than SB900?   It seems like there should be a solution somewhere rather than going back to D70 or one of the recent P&S leaf shutter cameras.

Does anyone have a suggestion?

==Doug
« Last Edit: January 16, 2013, 09:28:20 AM by douglasboyd » Logged
FredBGG
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« Reply #10 on: January 17, 2013, 07:02:55 PM »
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Quantum makes more powerfull speedlights with HSS.

They also have a tele reflector.

http://qtm.com/index.php/products/qflash/trio-shoe-mounted-flash

http://qtm.com/index.php/products/qflash/qflash-x5dr
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douglasboyd
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« Reply #11 on: January 17, 2013, 09:49:53 PM »
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Dear Fred,

Thank you so much for steering me in the right direction.  I had looked at the Quantum Trio, but was concerned it might not have enough power--  it is hard to find any published facts on power level.  But I didn't know about the Quantum x5dR which is clearly specified at 400 watt-sec, which seems to me to be enough power for outdoors in bright sun.   By the way in this power range I also found the Flashpoint 400 (http://www.adorama.com/FPBPL.html) which is a low-spec chinese 400 watt-sec system said to be capable of camera mounting, and cost only $178.   There are a few others from China in this range listed in eBay, but hard to know how they actually perform.

I had also looked at Metz 76, a handle mount system which is super expensive, but I'm again not sure that this has enough light to be worth it, and it has poor online reviews.  I have a couple of Metz 60s, and they don't seem to have all that much more light compared to Nikon SB-900.

So I'm thinking to follow your advice with Quantum x5, if I can find an affordable unit, otherwise go for the nearest chinese knock-off.  Again thanks for this valuable advice.  If this works, then I will not be forced back to the super expensive Mamiya and Hasselblad MF systems with their (limited focal length) leaf lenses.

==Doug





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