Background -
I've done a set of images of the 24TSE on an HCam/IQ180 before, but received some feedback from some that perhaps I hadn't got the most out of the Canon, since I'd only gone up to f/11. You can see those earlier images here:
http://08.ae/panos/HCam/24mmTSE/24TSE.htmlBottom left are a set of thumbnails with self-explanatory tool-tips taking you through f/4 to f/11 with 0 and 5mm rise.
More recently, I attempted to shoot a comparison between the TSE and the HR, the results of which you can see here over at GetDPI:
http://www.getdpi.com/forum/487229-post36.htmlThat was at f/8, and again - it was commented that wasn't particularly fair on the Canon, and that the Canon shot was slightly over-exposed.
So, this morning, spurred on by Peter's thread
here, I thought I'd have another go at comparing the two.
23HR on a Max, 24TSE on an FPS. Same IQ180 back used on both cameras.
Carrying out this kind of test is challenging, because there are many different variables to consider, and so many different ways of going about it. One thing I wanted to do this time around was to try to be consistent with exposing of the shots. For this reason, I chose not to use the center filter of the HR, but rather to shoot both lenses at identical apertures and shutter speeds, along with LCC's for every shot. This possibly may put the HR at a disadvantage? I don't really know, but I'm sure others will chip in with their thoughts on this approach. I also chose not to do any shifting this time around, to keep the comparison as simple as possible.
Obviously one of the key differences between the lenses is that the light fall-off of the HR is considerably more than the TSE. Since great interest will be in the corners, and since I set this up with interesting pixel-peeping areas in the top left that were well lit, I chose to go approximately +1 stop over "sunny 16", knowing that there would be light-fall off in the corners, hopefully leading to good exposure from both lenses in this area.
Both sets of images had good looking histograms prior to applying the LCC's, with limited blow-outs on straight sunlight reflections off glass and metal, but once the LCC's had been applied, there was quite a bit more over-exposing. To counter this, I simply applied Capture 1's auto-exposure to each image individually. I have not made any highlight/shadow adjustments - I want to keep the post processing on this as minimal as possible.
So, the images were shot at the following settings:
All images - ISO35, daylight white-balance as per the IQ180 (4996K, 0 tint).
f/8 - 1/60th
f/11 - 1/30th
f/16 - 1/15th
LCC's shot two stops slower.
Exposure corrections:
23HR:
f/8: -1.08
f/11: -1.19
f/16: -1.26
24TSE:
f/8: -1.10
f/11: -1.15
f/16: -1.13
You can judge for yourselves how similar the results are exposure wise, but I think it's pretty close. I'm assuming that by allowing Capture One to auto-correct each image for exposure, that it should also correct for any shutter speed variation between the HR leaf shutter and the FPS focal plane shutter, and also any inconsistencies when changes to shutter speed were made.
Nothing else has been touched in Capture One. Default settings have been left for sharpening - 160/1.0/1.0.
In order to provide the best pixel-peeping opportunity, I have gone back to presenting these as per my original TSE/HCam tests. This involves the following -
Exporting the files from C1 as 16-bit TIFFs.
Importing the TIFFs into Kolor Panotour Pro ("PTP"), then allowing PTP to work its magic on producing a JPG image pyramid, with JPEG quality set to 11.
I've visually checked the result on the web against looking at the original file in C1, and I believe there is a perceptible difference in sharpness, but don't believe it's sufficient to mask the comparative results.
Any objective comments on the above process would be gratefully received.
So, without further ado, the link for you to check it out for yourself:
http://08.ae/panos/TSEvsHRtake2/HRTSE.htmlOn the left hand side is a little collapsible drawer that allows you to select which image you want to examine. Tools for zooming and panning around should be obvious. I guess if you want to do a good A:B comparison, just open the thing up twice in different tabs, and select the thumbnails you want to compare...
Kind regards,
Gerald.