ipf8300 - Can't rewind rolls of paper to print multiples?

[Roscolo]

I like to print 8x10 proofs before I do full size prints. So on my z3100 I typically create a 9x44 print, and paste my 8x10 proof on one edge and print. Then I can evaluate the print by simply rolling the paper forward. To do another proof, I just past the next proof next to the first proof and delete the first proof so the printer doesn't print over it. Then rewind the paper and print. I can evaluate 4 proofs this way and not waste all that paper or canvas cutting off 44" of paper just to look at a small proof.

On the HP, one can rewind the paper back to the beginning to accomplish this. On the Canon ipf8300, the darn thing won't let you rewind to do more prints the way I describe. So I decided to unload / reload the roll. NOPE! Won't accept the load of a roll with an image already on it.

Any know of an easy way to accomplish my proofing method on the ipf8300?

Tx

[mstevensphoto]

print your proofs all at once

[Roscolo]

print your proofs all at once

Can't do that...proof 1 leads to adjustments in proof 2, etc. These are paintings, not photos. Even with boo-koo calibration and profiling, rarely will you get a painting repro right on the first try. Hope there's a way to do this...maybe a setting somewhere. Haven't been using the ipf8300 for painting repro that long. Can't believe Canon would miss something this obvious. HP even updated firmware just to enable this feature on the z3100. Not much point in having a paper move feature if you can't move the paper all the way back to the beginning.

[hugowolf]

On the HP, one can rewind the paper back to the beginning to accomplish this. On the Canon ipf8300, the darn thing won't let you rewind to do more prints the way I describe. So I decided to unload / reload the roll. NOPE! Won't accept the load of a roll with an image already on it.
Tx

Have you tried printing the other edge first?

Brian A

[bill t.]

It's a feature that would be really nice to have.

What I do now is crop out test strips measuring 2.5" x 14.5", or 2.5" x 21.75", or 2.5" x 43.5".  Then I assemble those on a 8" x 44" print.  The individual strips might be from several different images, or density and color wedges from a single image.  I have some actions that arrange the strips with adjustment layers clipped to each one.  Uses up a lot of media, but usually gets me to a good print quickly, especially with the exposure/color wedges.  One thing traded for another.

Maybe you could feed 10 inches of paper, cut it, then reload that as s 10" wide "roll."  Or just cut media up into 8x11 sheets.

[Roscolo]

Have you tried printing the other edge first?

Brian A

No...too lazy. Came running straight to the forum!  But I thought of that, too, and I'm going to try it. Guess the HP interface, for all it's clunkiness, beats the Canon in this regard.

Thanks.

UPDATE: Starting the prints from the other side does the trick. It allows one to unload the media, then reload and start from the beginning of the roll even once it's been printed on, as long as you start printing from the left side. Bingo!

[Ernst Dinkla]

When there is no waste paper around I would do the proofs on the Z3100 like that, first left side print etc. The infrared paper sensor allowed the print on the right side though if it was not too heavy. I was not aware that software has been changed.
These days I find it easier to cut a strip of 30 cm from the roll with the printer or the cutter, decurl and load it as a 30cm wide roll and print the proofs after another without reloading, no need to adjust the proof image position that it finds virgin paper and I can dry the proof print under an old hairdryer hood. Store the rest of the strip with the roll. What minimum size roll width is accepted by the iPF8300? Oh, and I hang a sheet of cheap offset paper over the roll that the proof strip does not mark the surface of the roll paper on the spindle when it goes through the printer.

--
Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst

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