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Author Topic: Mamiya RZ67 with digital back?  (Read 14159 times)
Chris Barrett
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« Reply #40 on: March 18, 2013, 12:04:36 PM »
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I don't shoot film for the res.  I replaced MF film with a 1ds when it came out, but then went back to film for editorial work.  Its the look, is all.

This is the case with many filmmakers as well.  While I don't miss chrome at all, neg film can be really beautiful!

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fredjeang2
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« Reply #41 on: March 18, 2013, 12:52:43 PM »
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Yeah, but beware of FilmConvert abuses  Wink

Or CineGrain. Huh
« Last Edit: March 18, 2013, 12:58:14 PM by fredjeang2 » Logged
amsp
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« Reply #42 on: March 18, 2013, 02:03:51 PM »
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I don't shoot film for the res.  I replaced MF film with a 1ds when it came out, but then went back to film for editorial work.  Its the look, is all.

+1

I've had the exact same evolution. I replaced my Pentax 6x7 with a 1Ds, then got a P25, and now I'm back to shooting as much film as I can. I could care less about resolution, it's all about the look and feel.

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JohnCox123
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« Reply #43 on: March 18, 2013, 04:12:23 PM »
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I shoot film for a similar reason. In the photography world digital cameras are everywhere, to be taken seriously as an artist (or just noticed) you have to be different, some people print on canvas or have other ways of making their work stand out. I use film as a way of distancing myself from the crowd of pixel peepers. I get that unique film look that a lot of them are going for and have to work less to maintain it.
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pjtn
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« Reply #44 on: March 18, 2013, 07:19:59 PM »
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I'm leaning more towards and AFD setup now. I have found someone in Australia that has a P25+ back for sale too. It's more than I'd like to pay but I guess it will be good for quite some years to come.

Are there any lenses in the Mamiya line to keep away from? Or any lenses that are particularly good?

I'll get a setup along the lines of a 55mm, 80mm and 150mm. I notice there is also a 45mm which is a little more expensive than the 55mm.
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HarperPhotos
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« Reply #45 on: March 18, 2013, 07:24:12 PM »
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Hello,

The 45mm was my favourite.

Cheers

Simon
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Simon Harper
Harper Photographics Ltd
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Auckland, New Zealand
neilwatson
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« Reply #46 on: March 18, 2013, 07:53:44 PM »
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I use to use the mamiya 45mm, 55mm and 120 macro mostly. 
I recommend the 120 macro.  Super sharp and good price on the used market.
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pjtn
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« Reply #47 on: March 18, 2013, 07:56:19 PM »
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Actually, something worth asking just for interest sake, how much would it cost for an Alpa setup for the digital back?

I hadn't really considered it because I've always imagined they must be very expensive. However I've never seen a price on one before. They look too nice to be cheap.
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Doug Peterson
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« Reply #48 on: March 18, 2013, 09:31:30 PM »
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Actually, something worth asking just for interest sake, how much would it cost for an Alpa setup for the digital back?

I hadn't really considered it because I've always imagined they must be very expensive. However I've never seen a price on one before. They look too nice to be cheap.

"An Alpa setup" or a setup of any other good tech camera is a very broad category.

Pre-owned (e.g. Cambo Wide DS with adapter) might be less than $1500 used (without lens).

At the high end:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=76222.msg610051#msg610051

It's a surprisingly large ecosystem of at least a dozen bodies made by at least a half dozen manufacturers. So it's hard to be more specific. Working with a good dealer you can work your way through the variety of options pretty quickly.
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DOUG PETERSON (dep@digitaltransitions.com), Digital Transitions
Dealer for Phase One, Mamiya Leaf, Arca-Swiss, Cambo, Profoto
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Sheldon N
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« Reply #49 on: March 18, 2013, 10:52:53 PM »
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Crap, just buy Simon's kit. Heck of a way to get started properly. Smiley

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=76445
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HarperPhotos
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« Reply #50 on: March 18, 2013, 11:08:11 PM »
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Hi Sheldon,

Thanks for the free plug.

Its a great system and has done me proud over the years and will be a great system for the next owner.

Cheers

Simon
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Simon Harper
Harper Photographics Ltd
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Auckland, New Zealand
marcel b
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« Reply #51 on: March 19, 2013, 03:36:24 AM »
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If somebody is still looking for a RZ system - I got some stuff for sale:

RZ Pro II Body in great condition
Winder
Sekor M 65 L-A
Sekor Z 90
Sekor Z 180 W-N
Leaf Adapter RZ to H, incl. Cables and Screen for Aptus 22/75
CU Ring 45mm
Handgrip
2 Filmbacks

just send me a message

cheers,
marcel
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billaudet photography
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mcrepsej
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« Reply #52 on: March 19, 2013, 06:23:48 AM »
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For sale: PhaseOne adapter plate to Mamiya RZ/RZ II to DB wiht Hasselblad V mount

Kind regards

Jesper Iversen
Denmark
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EnriqueSalvadorToso
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« Reply #53 on: April 23, 2014, 12:17:53 PM »
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Hello all!! this is a very interesting thread!!

I have an RZ Pro II with 5 lenses in one hand, and a Phase One P20 digital back in the other. I used to work with that back in a Hassel H1, but the shutter dies, so Im not taking any MF pictures nowdays...kind of depressing, lol.

Is there any way to put the PhaseOne P20 in the RZ Pro II camera?? I know that i need a cable for sincro, and an adapter, but can't find wich one!!

Any answer will be great.

Sorry for my english, and cheers from Argentina!!
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Steve Hendrix
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« Reply #54 on: April 23, 2014, 03:40:39 PM »
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Hello all!! this is a very interesting thread!!

I have an RZ Pro II with 5 lenses in one hand, and a Phase One P20 digital back in the other. I used to work with that back in a Hassel H1, but the shutter dies, so Im not taking any MF pictures nowdays...kind of depressing, lol.

Is there any way to put the PhaseOne P20 in the RZ Pro II camera?? I know that i need a cable for sincro, and an adapter, but can't find wich one!!

Any answer will be great.

Sorry for my english, and cheers from Argentina!!


Your English is fine, Enrique.

Not really a way for you to do this, unless you want to shoot the P20 in 2 shot, wake up mode.


Steve Hendrix
Capture Integration
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Steve Hendrix
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chiek
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« Reply #55 on: April 24, 2014, 02:01:27 AM »
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I'm doing my RZ pro2d (50, 110mm) sometimes with ixpress RZ adapter.
Working fine even Multishot but Can't mirror up so Very slow capture between multishot doing.

110mm lens is excellent , over 39Mpx but 50mm is NOT GOOD.
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chiek imaging, in Seoul, SOUTH-KOREA.
Sinar P2, Hasselblad H1+CF-39MS and a7/R, 5dmk2 systems
major job is products shot, especially for electronic products.
but interested in Landscapes and Portraits, however I've shot portraits sometimes.
my hobby is Designing camera...
www.chiek.co.kr
bpepz
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« Reply #56 on: April 24, 2014, 12:24:59 PM »
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I'm doing my RZ pro2d (50, 110mm) sometimes with ixpress RZ adapter.
Working fine even Multishot but Can't mirror up so Very slow capture between multishot doing.

110mm lens is excellent , over 39Mpx but 50mm is NOT GOOD.

You need to use the 50mm ULD. The only lens sharper then it in the rz line up is the 140mm LA and the APO lenses.
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bpepz
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« Reply #57 on: April 24, 2014, 12:29:09 PM »
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Also, for anyone interested, It is possible to use any hasselblad H3D back on it. But it is not easy. Leaf made a H mount adapter to the rz67 for their backs, you will have to use one of those. Problem is, it needs modified slightly to get it to fit on a H3D back. The prong is too deep, and the release lever gets in the way. Also, the H3D backs have trouble syncing with analog shutters. I had to do some soldering of wires and make a somewhat convoluted solution, but in practice it shoot seamlessly now.
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chiek
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« Reply #58 on: April 25, 2014, 02:00:59 PM »
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Also, for anyone interested, It is possible to use any hasselblad H3D back on it. But it is not easy. Leaf made a H mount adapter to the rz67 for their backs, you will have to use one of those. Problem is, it needs modified slightly to get it to fit on a H3D back. The prong is too deep, and the release lever gets in the way. Also, the H3D backs have trouble syncing with analog shutters. I had to do some soldering of wires and make a somewhat convoluted solution, but in practice it shoot seamlessly now.
I think H3d and my Hasselbald Cf back interface are same.
I'm use many mechnical shutters for my cf digital backs, just connect your shutter and hasselblad back. What is problem, please detail what is problem sync.
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chiek imaging, in Seoul, SOUTH-KOREA.
Sinar P2, Hasselblad H1+CF-39MS and a7/R, 5dmk2 systems
major job is products shot, especially for electronic products.
but interested in Landscapes and Portraits, however I've shot portraits sometimes.
my hobby is Designing camera...
www.chiek.co.kr
bpepz
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« Reply #59 on: April 25, 2014, 02:38:15 PM »
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I think H3d and my Hasselbald Cf back interface are same.
I'm use many mechnical shutters for my cf digital backs, just connect your shutter and hasselblad back. What is problem, please detail what is problem sync.

I used to think it would be the same, but apparently the H3D series backs have something different in the way they work.  It is not just me who has seen this, I ended up contacting the guy who made the article below, because I wanted to know how he get his rz67 to sync.

http://probokeh.com/blog/hasselblad-h3d31-vs-mamiya-rz67-pro-ii-h3d31-back/

Turns out, he didn't really get it to sync. He had to use a remote release and set the h3d expose time on the back to 2 seconds, and shoot the rz67 in between. I ended up going a bit further and made my own solution that mainly eliminates that, but it was not easy to figure out.

Alright, as for the problem itself, basically even if I directly sync with a sync cord from the rz67 to the h3d, the exposures will have a horrible purple caste and artifacts at any speed above 1/60th. Interestingly, if there is no ambient light, and you use a strobe, the images turn out perfectly even at 1/400th. This made me believe the h3d backs have a problem with early light, and the low tolerances and timing of the rz67 was too out of sync for it.  My solution, was to solder the cable from a rz67 L-grip into a 2.5mm jack and plug it into the triggering port of the h3d. I then took the other end of the cable from the l-grip for the rz67, which is basically an electronic release, and soldered it into a 3.5mm jack and placed it into the flash output port of the h3d. So, now to shoot with the rz67, I press the "shutter" button on the grip, this "triggers" the h3d and it starts exposing, but nothing has happened yet. As soon as it starts exposing, it sends a signal through the flash output port and triggers the rz67 via the electronic release on the other end. The result? Perfect exposures at all shutter speeds now. You can use this to sync perfectly with the Fuji GX680 as well. It seems this only affects h3d backs. I used it with the h3d-39, and the other guy used an h3dii-31, so I think it is safe to say it is a problem with all of them.
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