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Author Topic: Hahnemuhle Protective Spray  (Read 731 times)
Mike Sellers
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« on: March 20, 2013, 10:01:00 AM »
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Has anyone tried this? It is odorless so that`s good. I wonder if it would do a good job on canvas? I would be worried about the corners cracking while stretching.
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Ken
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« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2013, 10:34:03 AM »
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I've been using it on paper for about a decade because I don't like glass on my framed pieces. It is not odorless! Maybe the smell is only the isopropanol, but it's definitely there. This is from their tech specs PDF:

"The principal safety and health hazards when using the product are due to inhalation of isopropanol vapours. There is also a risk of ignition with the spray product should it pass through or onto an ignition source. Inhalation may occur while spraying the product or during the drying process. If the product is used with adequate ventilation, risk of excessive inhalation is eliminated."

I have used it on canvas and it was fine... no cracks, but I prefer the look of a relatively heavy lacquer look, so I spray a light coat or two before applying something like ClearShield with a roller. The spray coat helps prevent ink smearing on the first roller pass.
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MHMG
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« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2013, 11:53:32 AM »
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My guess is that HN Protective Spray is rebadged Premier Print Shield, or that both vendors are sourcing their private labeled product from the same manufacturer. Label is different, but the can's design, nozzle performance, viscosity and solvent formulation appear to be identical. You can use them interchangeably without noticing any differences.  Also, samples having been coated with both products are in test at Aardenburg Imaging and the general light fastness enhancement to the samples is the same. I personally and routinely use either product with excellent success on Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Pearl, my favorite satin/luster "traditional photo" paper. This paper has it's own distinctive "look" not closely copied by other media, holds the wet spray coating very well without sag, and dries down beautifully with very little change in surface appearance other than the elimination of all differential gloss (which is relatively low on this paper to begin with, but I'm fanatical about removing all traces).

The challenge to working with low viscosity sprays like HN Protective Spray and Premier Print Shield is applying enough to make a substantive coating (two coats optimal) yet not applying too heavily that the low viscosity solution puddles or sags before drying.

While it can work for canvas, it won't necessarily alter the canvas surface patina which many artists actually intend to do when varnishing (ie. use a varnish for decorative gloss/color gamut enhancement as well impart protective barrier properties.   It's also undoubtedly a very expensive option compared to the aqueous-based varnishes that most people apply with HVLP spray guns or rollers, so most artist wouldn't use it unless they produce only a few canvas prints each month.  The coating resin is acrylic, but not being an aqueous emulsion like ClearStar ClearShield, BC Timeless, etc, it may be more prone to cracking when the canvas is stretched even though the thickness of the coating will be quite low.

The only actual experience I have with HN Protective Spray/Premier Print Shield on a canvas medium is with the Kernewek Fabric "St Ives" (see: http://www.aardenburg-imaging.com/news.67.html ). This is a unique "infused" inkjet medium that retains the weave of the fabric exceptionally well because the inkjet receptor layer is infused into the fabric rather than production top coated like most canvas/inkjet media. The conventional overcoats tend to fill in the weave pattern on the canvas.  Spraying with HN Protective Spray alters the delicate structure of the St Ives fabric very little, and it looks essentially as if no coating was ever applied yet provides some barrier protection.  One artist colleague I print for on the St Ive's fabric will sometimes desire a thicker decorative coating on the Kernewek fabric.  He applies the HN spray as an undercoat on the Kernewek Fabric, then rolls on a top coat of aqueous-based varnish (I seem to recall him saying ClearStar) with very good results. The reason he does this is because testing at AaI&A has shown some chemical compatibility problems with the aqueous chemistry needed to emulsify the resin in the acrylic varnishes and the aqueous pigment based inks (i.e., light fade resistance is impaired rather than enhanced). The HN spray is thus acting as an intermediate barrier coat between the encapsulated ink particles and the aqueous acrylic emulsion chemistry.


cheers,
Mark
http://www.aardenburg-imaging.com
« Last Edit: March 20, 2013, 12:22:58 PM by MHMG » Logged
Mike Sellers
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« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2013, 11:56:09 AM »
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Ok thanks.
Is there a difference between a lacquer based spray and a solvent based spray?
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MHMG
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« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2013, 01:00:03 PM »
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Ok thanks.
Is there a difference between a lacquer based spray and a solvent based spray?

Is there a difference between a lacquer based spray and a solvent based spray?
[/quote]

This question is a little bit out of my realm of expertise, but traditionally lacquers and varnishes have resins suspended in a solvent other than water (water is a solvent, too), typically aromatic hydrocarbons.  The value of acrylic resin emulsions which are water based, is that they tend to be less toxic and easier to clean the tools after application. Beyond that, most folks use lacquer and varnish rather interchangeably, but there are other technical distinctions for those that want to be sticklers for accuracy. For example, a traditional varnish is made up of a resin that is kept in suspension by the addition of thinners and also contains drying oils that will help dry down properties, whereas a lacquer is made up of resin/solvent mixtures that also have dissolved nitrocellulose in them. The film forming properties of acrylic emulsions tend to be poorer at creating coatings with the highest gas and vapor barrier properties compared to resins, even the same acrylic resin, when suspended directly in a solvent rather than emulsified.  I'm sure others on this forum can add further nuances that account for various technical distinctions between acrylic emulsions, resin varnishes, and lacquers. Or google the topic. You will find out more that you ever wanted to know Cheesy

best,
Mark
« Last Edit: March 20, 2013, 01:09:53 PM by MHMG » Logged
Mike Sellers
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« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2013, 09:05:07 AM »
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Amazing amount of info on this website! Thanks
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