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Author Topic: Green light for complete Arca Swiss RL3Di  (Read 7079 times)
Ken R
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« Reply #40 on: May 27, 2013, 09:30:06 AM »
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The impression I get from LL and GetDpi is that it's the enthusiasts who seem keen to have the most up to date and expensive camera systems.  Grin

Yes. The thing is MFDB's have not reached a point where they are so well sorted out that they make a new generation of backs frivolous. That is in regards to primarily untethered Live View (nonexistent with the exception of the Phase1 IQ series and the Leaf Credo's, and its still not where people want it to be), screen quality/functionality and high iso/long exposures. The Phase IQ backs are a pretty big leap in those aspects hence they are worth the upgrade and are almost there. The new IQ2XX series back add wireless connectivity and the IQ260 long exposures. All these qualities/features are of particularly high importance for tech camera users.

Tech cameras have come a long way also. The new Arca R's seem very well sorted out. The only weak link in the system that I see is the copal shutter. I am sure in the future we will see a nice compact electronic leaf shutter option that can be controlled either by the back or a small controller (maybe a new version of the e-module?).

Medium Format SLR's are also pretty much well behind current DSLR technology. Mostly they are inherited systems from the film era. The Hasselblad H5D's look well sorted out and the Mamiya/Phase 645's have been improved. But, people are still left wanting. They still look like hybrid systems and are somewhat clunky. The Leica S looks like it's superb though. The Pentax 645D is also really nice (I used it for about a month).

So a lot of people will gravitate to the latest gear since even the previous generation is still not exactly cheap!

The Arca should work very well with the future generation of backs though (specially with the rodenstock HR lenses) and Arca seems to be committed with digital. (Alpa and Cambo also)
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Enda Cavanagh
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« Reply #41 on: May 27, 2013, 09:45:51 AM »
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new IQ2XX series back add wireless connectivity and the IQ260 long exposures. All these qualities/features are of particularly high importance for tech camera users.

As long as dark exposures are needed on all exposures for Leaf and Phase One backs I will not use those systems as good as they are. The camera still has to work for me. I would in affect double my shooting time. In regards to my commercials work I charge for my time. In regard to my fine art work, I shoot mostly panoramics with multiple exposures and I have no desire to stand around twiddling my thumbs. If even Phase One could eliminate the need for the dark exposure for anything under say 4 to 8 minutes that would be a game changer for me. Anything over that would be rarely shot anyway. Hasselblad do not require a dark exposure so I am leaning towards the H5D 50 as an upgrade. The max exposure is 128 seconds. I also won't have the issues with Schneider wide angles. All my lenses are Schneiders. The H5D 40 can shoot at 256 seconds but would not suit me because of the image crop


So a lot of people will gravitate to the latest gear since even the previous generation is still not exactly cheap!

A lot of professionals can't gravitate to the latest gear because budgets have been shot to sh*t   Embarrassed
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Ken R
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« Reply #42 on: May 27, 2013, 03:54:55 PM »
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A lot of professionals can't gravitate to the latest gear because budgets have been shot to sh*t   Embarrassed

True. I'm a professional and I make all my money using Canon gear. I will try to incorporate my Phase One / Arca rig into some of the professional work I do though. I got the Medium Format system for my landscape photography. I do some paid Architecture photography every month and for that I would need the 23mm HR and thats a very expensive proposition Smiley.

The camera gear is only one part of the equation. A lot of my equipment is more on the lighting side of things. I concentrate a lot of my efforts on pre production and just giving the best service I can to my clients. For me photography is a business but before that I was and still am an enthusiast. I love it. Things are tough but there is always a market.

But yeah, a lot of doctors, lawyers, patent holders and wealth management folks (among others) that are enthusiast photographers purchase quite a bit of the high end gear. I think that has always been the case to some degree.
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FMueller
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« Reply #43 on: May 27, 2013, 07:12:36 PM »
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The impression I get from LL and GetDpi is that it's the enthusiasts who seem keen to have the most up to date and expensive camera systems.  Grin

Yes, I would agree. I'm trying to not be that guy. I'm printing more because screen gazing only feeds into the gearhead syndrome. At least for me, a print is the end product. Can't say that I don't enjoy fine equipment, but I enjoy a fine print even more. First thing I did with my new (refurbished) DB was get a few shots so I could pull a print. It made me smile.

I also have to add this link to a blogpost from a photographer, Kirk Tuck. It is so relevant to your comment.

More like play, less like work. http://visualsciencelab.blogspot.com/2013/05/more-like-play-less-like-work.html
« Last Edit: May 27, 2013, 11:40:01 PM by FMueller » Logged
Smoothjazz
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« Reply #44 on: May 27, 2013, 10:32:40 PM »
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I don't use the Variofinder either- the IQ 180 back becomes the viewfinder in a certain sense.
 It seems to be more work than benefit to put the finder on.
Using it handheld is a good tip; I have to try that.
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julienlanoo
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« Reply #45 on: May 28, 2013, 10:14:40 AM »
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I've got a magnetic tip trick ( i've worked out being just as annoyed as you).
I even use magnetic tip now with the Kature group 1 shot cable.

The moment you put the magnetic tip on the lens, turn it a few times clockwise, just like you would screw in the release cable.
This to magnetise the metal round completely, and to generate a bit of static, => it sticks way better that way :p

There is a way to reinforce the magnet ( called using fisics) an that's by rubbing it with a more powerfull magnet... Only problem i didn't find how to rub a more powerfull magnet in that small plug.
Any way i am thinking of making a 12V electro magnet the size of a pen to magnetise the magnet more Smiley

The focus error was quite big at 2, i have one of 1.1, that's fine for me , as i've calibrated my cloud to it..

greets
ju
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 10:22:05 AM by julienlanoo » Logged
julienlanoo
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« Reply #46 on: May 28, 2013, 10:19:21 AM »
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By the way, the front 90% flip ,
does work on the Rm3di, as i use it constantly :p
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julienlanoo
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« Reply #47 on: May 28, 2013, 10:32:17 AM »
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One more Remark Enda,
Welcome in France, if you see it will take 4 hours, count on it it will take 8 Smiley , that's france, why? So you have bloody time to go and have a coffie in Bistro, or have "aperitifs" before you eat of course,.. In France 4 hours is the "actual time working on it" not the actual time you will be spending on it .. of course! :p

( Love France for that Smiley )
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Enda Cavanagh
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« Reply #48 on: May 28, 2013, 10:32:56 AM »
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By the way, the front 90% flip ,
does work on the Rm3di, as i use it constantly :p

Ah. Ok. I was told it's just on the RL3D. Thanks for the tip Julien with the cable release. I'll do that from now on.
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Enda Cavanagh
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« Reply #49 on: May 28, 2013, 10:33:43 AM »
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One more Remark Enda,
Welcome in France, if you see it will take 4 hours, count on it it will take 8 Smiley , that's france, why? So you have bloody time to go and have a coffie in Bistro, or have "aperitifs" before you eat of course,.. In France 4 hours is the "actual time working on it" not the actual time you will be spending on it .. of course! :p

( Love France for that Smiley )

Ya but I was dealing with Swiss.  They must have left the clock at home Grin
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julienlanoo
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« Reply #50 on: May 28, 2013, 10:51:17 AM »
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wether you are dealing with "swiss, chineese, italians, germans, " whatever, you are dealing with them in France Smiley :p that's the difference
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julienlanoo
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« Reply #51 on: May 28, 2013, 10:58:54 AM »
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I have an other tip,
You know those "calibrated rings" wel your lens is mounted on a lens plate that is screwed into that ring.
Always be shure to check it that plate is well attached..
I once had the problem with my 90 mm that the plate wasn't completely screwed in and almost fell down ( fell in my hand) ..
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Paul2660
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« Reply #52 on: May 28, 2013, 11:13:09 AM »
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On the rm3di the flip works but its much less 20mm and 30mm vs the 40 and 60 on the rl3d.  On a 60mp back I only have 1 lens that will go to 20mm,  the 60mm SK. 

Paul Caldwell
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Paul Caldwell
Little Rock, Arkansas U.S.
Photography > http://photosofarkansas.com
Blog> http://paulcaldwellphotography.com
Smoothjazz
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« Reply #53 on: May 28, 2013, 11:52:13 AM »
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I took the magnetic cable releases off all of my lenses, as they seemed to come off too easily.
I am now trying the Kapture group cable, which has the benefit of pressing one single cable release that both wakes up the camera back and also releases the shutter- saving one step.
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Paul2660
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« Reply #54 on: May 28, 2013, 12:27:27 PM »
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+1 to Kapture group cable. 

Paul Caldwell
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Paul Caldwell
Little Rock, Arkansas U.S.
Photography > http://photosofarkansas.com
Blog> http://paulcaldwellphotography.com
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