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Author Topic: Paper Suggestion - For Colorful Cactus Bloom  (Read 1603 times)
orchidblooms
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« on: April 19, 2013, 12:47:50 PM »
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I have tried a few papers -

Also have tried PS, imagePrint 9 demo and Mirage

I have done 'soft proofing' in PS for each occasion of printing with selected profiles including imageprint...

Images look nice - but not getting that pop I am looking for...

I am wondering what papers folks with printing experience would be reaching for... (noob)

The photo was taken with d800e zeiss 135 APO / off camera flash and reflector and pn-11 tube - added adjustment layer for clarity adjustment in filament area

Thank you

Phil

edit...  added file - i had a linked file - but seemed to not be showing
« Last Edit: April 19, 2013, 06:37:37 PM by orchidblooms » Logged
Atlex.com
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« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2013, 04:27:08 PM »
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Different luster/pearl papers help with the pop effect.  If you're looking for a cool effect pop out paper, I would try out the metallic papers available.

We carry the different luster brands as well as samples and the metallics if you're interested to see how they look.
Epson Luster
Ilford Gallerie Prestige Smooth Pearl
Simply Elegant Metallic Pearlescent (or Chrome Gloss)

Atlex.com
800-327-2822
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hugowolf
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« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2013, 09:37:23 PM »
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I have tried a few papers -
Also have tried PS, imagePrint 9 demo and Mirage
I have done 'soft proofing' in PS for each occasion of printing with selected profiles including imageprint...
Images look nice - but not getting that pop I am looking for...
I am wondering what papers folks with printing experience would be reaching for... (noob)
The photo was taken with d800e zeiss 135 APO / off camera flash and reflector and pn-11 tube - added adjustment layer for clarity adjustment in filament area
Phil
So what papers have you tried and on what printer and inks?

Also, the image you have posted is in ProPhotoRGB, unfortunately, many browsers will not display it correctly.

Brian A
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orchidblooms
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« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2013, 10:36:50 AM »
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yes - sRGB -- converted...

did not think about this...

i have used breathing color vibrance gloss
hahnemuhle fine art pearl
moab Lasal Exhibition Luster

and the image in srgb, now in this post Smiley

pringing on epson 4900

many thanks
« Last Edit: April 20, 2013, 10:39:35 AM by orchidblooms » Logged
Pete Berry
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« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2013, 11:38:36 AM »
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I assume your monitor is calibrated, but on mine, in PS6 w/ the PPRGB version, the image looks rather anemic, and improves greatly with levels brought in a bit at both ends.

It sounds as if your soft proof is not matching your prints very well, and I doubt, with the variety of papers you've tried, that the paper is at fault.

Pete
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orchidblooms
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« Reply #5 on: April 20, 2013, 01:19:31 PM »
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I assume your monitor is calibrated, but on mine, in PS6 w/ the PPRGB version, the image looks rather anemic, and improves greatly with levels brought in a bit at both ends.

It sounds as if your soft proof is not matching your prints very well, and I doubt, with the variety of papers you've tried, that the paper is at fault.

Pete

thanks pete - yes nec with spectro-view - recently calibrated...

pete, when you say 'improves greatly with levels brought in a bit at both ends' - what do you mean exactly - how/ what are you doing for this?

i have been mostly using an adjustment layer 'curves' for the soft proofing....

perhaps i am doing this all wrong?

many thanks

Phil
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Pete Berry
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« Reply #6 on: April 20, 2013, 08:32:11 PM »
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thanks pete - yes nec with spectro-view - recently calibrated...

pete, when you say 'improves greatly with levels brought in a bit at both ends' - what do you mean exactly - how/ what are you doing for this?

i have been mostly using an adjustment layer 'curves' for the soft proofing....

perhaps i am doing this all wrong?

many thanks

Phil

I gave up long ago on soft proofing, and have adusted my monitor to closely match my printed output - hard-proofing - but it sounds to me as if your soft proofed image is more vibrant than your print, which suggests that monitor contrast and/or sat. are still too high if prints don't match well.

I'm certainly not a power PS'er, but when I want a vibrant image, one of the first things I do in PS6 is to adjust the black and white input levels in the Image>Adjustments>Levels panel, or Ctrl-L. The old truism that "blacks make the image" applies just as well to color as to B/W, and that bring the black input level to the histogram clipping point, or often in my work slightly inside it, and the white input level to the clipping point or just a bit outside it will greatly or slightly increase image "pop" by giving a full tonal range, which is muted otherwise. Of course there are other ways to a similar result...

Pete
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orchidblooms
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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2013, 01:14:49 AM »
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I gave up long ago on soft proofing, and have adusted my monitor to closely match my printed output - hard-proofing - but it sounds to me as if your soft proofed image is more vibrant than your print, which suggests that monitor contrast and/or sat. are still too high if prints don't match well.

I'm certainly not a power PS'er, but when I want a vibrant image, one of the first things I do in PS6 is to adjust the black and white input levels in the Image>Adjustments>Levels panel, or Ctrl-L. The old truism that "blacks make the image" applies just as well to color as to B/W, and that bring the black input level to the histogram clipping point, or often in my work slightly inside it, and the white input level to the clipping point or just a bit outside it will greatly or slightly increase image "pop" by giving a full tonal range, which is muted otherwise. Of course there are other ways to a similar result...

Pete


Pete - many thanks - i too am beginng to wonder about this 'soft proofing'...

in my quest for help - i started a new thread in the color management forum

i will try your suggestions later today

thank you

phil

new thread http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=77600.0
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hugowolf
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« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2013, 09:56:31 AM »
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i have used breathing color vibrance gloss
hahnemuhle fine art pearl
moab Lasal Exhibition Luster
Well softproofing the ProPhotoRGB image in Photoshop using Hahnemühle Fine Art Pearl profile for the 4900 shows most of the image to be out of gamut, so I would expect the print to be more muted than the screen image. You need to shift that red into gamut if you want to control the output.

Have you tried both perceptual and relative colorimetric? With an image like this, without manually dealing with the out of gamut colors, perceptual will more often result in a better print.

Brian A
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orchidblooms
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2013, 11:10:38 AM »
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Well softproofing the ProPhotoRGB image in Photoshop using Hahnemühle Fine Art Pearl profile for the 4900 shows most of the image to be out of gamut, so I would expect the print to be more muted than the screen image. You need to shift that red into gamut if you want to control the output.

Have you tried both perceptual and relative colorimetric? With an image like this, without manually dealing with the out of gamut colors, perceptual will more often result in a better print.

Brian A

Hi Brian  - indeed i have tried both perceptual and relative colorimetric - i will have another run thru in actual prints today - i know i have flipped between the two countless times on the monitor...

many thanks

phil
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