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Author Topic: Sharp Edges on Stretcher Bars cause cracking on canvas prints...  (Read 4153 times)
RFPhotography
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« Reply #20 on: June 01, 2013, 06:23:58 PM »
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I'm talking the edges along the length or width of the bars, not the corners.  And its not the canvas cracking, that would be really bad :-), its the pigment flaking off the creased canvas, minutely - very tiny flakes.

I've been using aqueous polyurethane varnish, exterior, clear, selling for about $20/quart which is probably much cheaper than BC.  I previously was using interior polyurethane and it cracked more frequently, the exterior is definitely better.  Self leveling, dries in less than 2 hours, brushed on coat.  Now i get only a slight amount of cracking in the corner when its folded back on itself.   

I buy my larger prints (larger than i can print that is :-)) from a company that sprays on the varnish.  I don't see cracking in even the corners on theirs, so its either due to a lighter coat or better varnish than i'm using.

I've been using Premier Eco for a few years now with no problems.  It's not inexpensive, but it works.  A quart is about $38 here in Toronto.

When I said the spray on coatings, I was referring to things like the Hahnemule or Moab that come in a spray can.  Of course the Eco and similar coatings can be sprayed or rolled on.
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Mike Guilbault
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« Reply #21 on: June 02, 2013, 04:30:49 PM »
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Hey Dan... just wanted to confirm what you wrote earlier when you said 3 v-nails per corner, but then flip it over and add another three v-nails per corner?  So that's 6 v-nails per joint?  Seems like you'd increase the chances of splitting with that many, no?
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Dan Berg
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« Reply #22 on: June 02, 2013, 05:28:26 PM »
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No splitting. These are 1 1/2" and 2" poplar and will not split with those nails.
The sharpness of the nail along with the power that they are driven in with makes splitting a non issue.
Maybe with other materials like 3/4" thick pine but I doubt it.
You of course could use just 2 per side.
« Last Edit: June 02, 2013, 05:30:10 PM by Dan Berg » Logged

John Nollendorfs
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« Reply #23 on: June 02, 2013, 07:34:58 PM »
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While I can see getting one of those expensive "V" guns if you are doing custom wood framing too, I think it's a bit overkill just for stretchers. I've been just driving 3 heavy duty 3/8" staples on both sides of each corner. (same staples I use to fasten canvas in my $30 pneumatic stapler from Harbor Freight.) Have not had any trouble in 3 years even with 3' x 5' frames.

The frame is basically held together by the stretched canvas.
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Dan Berg
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« Reply #24 on: June 03, 2013, 07:26:28 AM »
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I also used my canvas stapler in earlier days. Worked just fine but nothing like a vnailer.
Just like using a standard chop saw to cut joints works just fine until you start using a dual mitersaw. Big difference.
Their is a high and low cost/quality tool made for about every process you can imagine.

« Last Edit: June 03, 2013, 11:13:45 AM by Dan Berg » Logged

StuNY
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« Reply #25 on: June 03, 2013, 10:49:24 AM »
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Lots of great info in this thread thanks! Inspired me to start making my own gallery wrap frames after endless using/experimenting with purchased parts and kits that I was never quite satisfied with. Picked up an upholstery stapler and had everything else already. Home Depot select pine 1x2's (once you find a few straight ones!) seem to be the right size (nothing larger than 13"x24" for me) and easy to work with. They make 1.5 inch deep frames. Just finished mounting my first 4 canvas' last night and am very happy!
I put an 1/8 inch round on the edges the canvas touches with my table mounted router, cut a 15 degree bevel on the front and back sides, and used miter saw for cutting the angles. Sounds more complicated than it is, I made 8 small frames in an hour or two. Adds a little bit of pride knowing I did everything from take the shot/process/print/mount.
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rgvsdigitalpimp
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« Reply #26 on: June 03, 2013, 02:30:22 PM »
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Stuny, I'd love to see your finished stick after you do those cuts.  I use 1x1.5" poplar sticks.  I use a nail gun to add a .5" quarter round moulding to edge.  Makes a 1.5" stretcher with raised bevel as well.  If I can eliminate the nailing quarter round moulding to poplar stick using router table that would be awesome.  I just don't get quite the picture on exactly how to do what your describing. 
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StuNY
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« Reply #27 on: June 03, 2013, 02:57:55 PM »
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I will take a picture and post later. I was originally intending to do it the way you describe, but when I saw the price for the molding decided to just make the whole piece in one shot!
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rgvsdigitalpimp
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« Reply #28 on: June 03, 2013, 03:47:53 PM »
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Stuny, at the local cabinet supply shop about a block down the road from me I get the 1.5" x 1" poplar sticks plus the .5" quarter round moulding for a total of .74 cents a linear foot.  Super cheap
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Dan Berg
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« Reply #29 on: June 03, 2013, 04:28:05 PM »
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You should be able to do better then that.
My custom 1 1/2"  x 1 1/2" poplar run me .45 a Lin. Foot.
Perfectly profiled all you do is miter and assemble.
The 2" x 11/2" are a little more at .58 a foot.
You can buy them already profiled for the size you are doing for under .50 a foot.
Decor moulding out of New York has 3 different sizes and they are ready to miter and assemble.
No millwork shops in your area that could set up their molder and do a run for you?
You really should not have to go through what you are going through unless you just enjoy it.
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rgvsdigitalpimp
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« Reply #30 on: June 03, 2013, 04:33:26 PM »
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Dan I had two places quote me a couple hundred just to cut the blade to make the bars.  Then they wanted $1.25 a foot AFTER that.  Insane.  I really dont enjoy doing this.  Luckily I have a retired father in law that loves doing it.  I place my order with him he brings the frames ready.  I wish I had a local shop that could cut that for me
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Dan Berg
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« Reply #31 on: June 03, 2013, 04:50:48 PM »
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We are really spoiled here in the amish mecca of southeastern Pennsylvania.
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StuNY
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« Reply #32 on: June 03, 2013, 05:39:23 PM »
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Stuny, I'd love to see your finished stick after you do those cuts.  I use 1x1.5" poplar sticks.  I use a nail gun to add a .5" quarter round moulding to edge.  Makes a 1.5" stretcher with raised bevel as well.  If I can eliminate the nailing quarter round moulding to poplar stick using router table that would be awesome.  I just don't get quite the picture on exactly how to do what your describing. 
Ok, the picture is below. I like the angle on the back that I staple too as it looks a little cleaner against the wall from the sides than when I had a flat back side.
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rgvsdigitalpimp
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« Reply #33 on: June 03, 2013, 08:48:37 PM »
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Thanks for the photo! Now to try and reproduce it Smiley I know nothing about woodwork so I'll be consulting with an uncle of mine with your instructions.
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John Nollendorfs
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« Reply #34 on: June 04, 2013, 12:26:37 PM »
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Something to consider is using brick moulding, available for around $1.10 per foot, primed with white paint, and very sturdy for large framing sizes. 1 1/4" deep.

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