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Author Topic: Ricoh GR as a landscape camera  (Read 3981 times)
powerslave12r
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« on: August 01, 2013, 09:43:47 AM »
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So considering everything, the new Ricoh GR is an unbelievable package, which ticks all the check boxes one could ask for. The resolution of the lens is excellent and the high ISO performance is great. Everything on it is pretty much on par with modern cameras and it's costs only $800 new!

Add to that built in ND, 1/2000th sync, no AA filter, excellent in camera options (snap focus etc)

Am I missing something? Why isn't the world going gaga over this camera? Why do I not see any pictures from this camera here?

From what I understand this is a serious competitor to the DP Merrills.
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BernardLanguillier
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« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2013, 05:41:28 PM »
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I am not going gaga over it because:
- the Sigma DP2m that I own is superior in terms of landscape image quality,
- 28mm is too wide for general street shooting.

Cheers,
Bernard
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powerslave12r
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« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2013, 05:57:48 PM »
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I am not going gaga over it because:
- the Sigma DP2m that I own is superior in terms of landscape image quality,
- 28mm is too wide for general street shooting.

Cheers,
Bernard


I was almost prepared to order the GR but as you mentioned, the focal length put me off for general usage, and for landscape photography, the DP2m is arguably better. So I ordered the DP2m.

If they can put in a 35 or 50mm lens on that GR it will be the greatest thing this side of an RX1 I think.
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Gregs
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« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2013, 07:48:22 PM »
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Still can't fathom why the 28mm focal length gets so little attention, and no respect!! For landscapes - particularly mountaineering - its been been my favorite focal length, beginning with the amazing 50mm (28 equiv) lens for the Mamiya 6. 28 mm to my eye trumps the seemingly more popular 24 mm focal length, the latter almost "too wide", with more obvious/artificial shrinking of distant structures (eg, peaks). 28 is wide, but just barely, and seems more "natural" than the more blatantly wide 24. Its been great for me for street shooting and general travel use as well. Even more puzzling is the apparent paucity of really good optics in that focal length from many of the major brands, who seem to produce better lenses at 24 or 35 mm lengths. 35 mm is a great length too, so perhaps combining that with a 28 for a kit leaves two focal lengths which are perhaps too close. Finding a great 28 has always been more difficult. For me, the GR is a dream come true. Nikon choose 28 for its GR equivalent as well (coolpix A).
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powerslave12r
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« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2013, 08:50:01 PM »
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Still can't fathom why the 28mm focal length gets so little attention, and no respect!! For landscapes - particularly mountaineering - its been been my favorite focal length, beginning with the amazing 50mm (28 equiv) lens for the Mamiya 6. 28 mm to my eye trumps the seemingly more popular 24 mm focal length, the latter almost "too wide", with more obvious/artificial shrinking of distant structures (eg, peaks). 28 is wide, but just barely, and seems more "natural" than the more blatantly wide 24. Its been great for me for street shooting and general travel use as well. Even more puzzling is the apparent paucity of really good optics in that focal length from many of the major brands, who seem to produce better lenses at 24 or 35 mm lengths. 35 mm is a great length too, so perhaps combining that with a 28 for a kit leaves two focal lengths which are perhaps too close. Finding a great 28 has always been more difficult. For me, the GR is a dream come true. Nikon choose 28 for its GR equivalent as well (coolpix A).

I am tempted to say different strokes for different folks. My thought process went like this.

> Ricoh GR vs RX100 vs DP1m vs DP2m.
> RX100 pocketable and perhaps the perfect always on you camera. But I use my phone as the always on me camera.
> Ricoh GR - perfect in every department! But then I'm not going to replace my DSLR with this, I'm buying this for a lightweight companion while hiking etc for shooting landscapes. It can do this job very well, but..

> I can do better! DP1m or DP2m is perfect for landscapes. Between the two I chose DP2M as the 45mm equivalent FL is versatile and I can do stitches as well.

That said, I ABSOLUTELY have fallen in love with Ricoh GR and I am really really tempted by it.
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BernardLanguillier
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« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2013, 10:36:48 PM »
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Between the two I chose DP2M as the 45mm equivalent FL is versatile and I can do stitches as well.

Exactly, with the amazing progress made by stitching software, it is now often better to pick the longer focal length when in doubt.

As far as 28mm vs 35mm goes, this is just a matter of personal preference.

Cheers,
Bernard
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powerslave12r
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« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2013, 10:51:36 PM »
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Exactly, with the amazing progress made by stitching software, it is now often better to pick the longer focal length when in doubt.

As far as 28mm vs 35mm goes, this is just a matter of personal preference.

Cheers,
Bernard


Just as an aside, is there a specific stitching software that works particularly well with the DP2M?

I use the Microsoft ICE software for stitching shifted panoramas from my tilt-shift. I have heard good things about PS stitch but I am not willing to spend that much money for just stitching software. Perhaps PS elements might do the trick. Does PS elements' stitching option do a good job?
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BernardLanguillier
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« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2013, 11:09:36 PM »
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Just as an aside, is there a specific stitching software that works particularly well with the DP2M?

I use the Microsoft ICE software for stitching shifted panoramas from my tilt-shift. I have heard good things about PS stitch but I am not willing to spend that much money for just stitching software. Perhaps PS elements might do the trick. Does PS elements' stitching option do a good job?

I use PTgui pro and Autopano pro generally speaking. I have not noticed anything specific with the DP2m.

So far I have only done hand held panos with it and have not had to many parallax issues on moderately distant subjects.

Measuring the nodal point position and using a pano head would of course be easy for panos including close elements.

Cheers,
Bernard
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powerslave12r
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« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2013, 11:11:32 PM »
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I use PTgui pro and Autopano pro generally speaking. I have not noticed anything specific with the DP2m.

So far I have only done hand held panos with it and have not had to many parallax issues on moderately distant subjects.

Measuring the nodal point position and using a pano head would of course be easy for panos including close elements.

Cheers,
Bernard


Excellent I'll look into both those. I tried ptgui a long time ago, I don't recall how my experience went.

Curious, have you tried Microsoft ICE (assuming you're on windows and it works only on windows), it works rather well. Not sure if it's technically accurate or not, but the nature landscapes come out excellent.
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BernardLanguillier
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« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2013, 11:50:29 PM »
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Curious, have you tried Microsoft ICE (assuming you're on windows and it works only on windows), it works rather well. Not sure if it's technically accurate or not, but the nature landscapes come out excellent.

Nope, I am currently on OSX, but have a Win7 VM I could use.

Ice seems pretty good, I am just not sure it was optimized for large panos/best control/best image quality as the 2 I am using are.

I may try it some day, but it is not on my short term list of TTD.

Cheers,
Bernard
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xocet
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« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2013, 02:27:12 AM »
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Just as an aside, is there a specific stitching software that works particularly well with the DP2M?

I use the Microsoft ICE software for stitching shifted panoramas from my tilt-shift. I have heard good things about PS stitch but I am not willing to spend that much money for just stitching software. Perhaps PS elements might do the trick. Does PS elements' stitching option do a good job?

I don't have a DP2, but Autopano Pro has coped with pretty much everything I have thrown at it, including stitches from film scans.

If you want something that is very capable, but that is free, give Hugin a try.  There is a wizard that suffices for many stitches, but if you have more complex requirements, there's a huge range of options with attendant learning curve.  There are some very useful tutorials linked through the Hgin site.
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powerslave12r
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« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2013, 08:02:10 AM »
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Nope, I am currently on OSX, but have a Win7 VM I could use.

Ice seems pretty good, I am just not sure it was optimized for large panos/best control/best image quality as the 2 I am using are.

I may try it some day, but it is not on my short term list of TTD.

Cheers,
Bernard


I have had really good results with ICE for simple shifted panos. The only problem I had one time was with exposure blending between two frames in this image. (https://www.flickr.com/photos/garagenoise/9209725110/lightbox/)

I don't have a DP2, but Autopano Pro has coped with pretty much everything I have thrown at it, including stitches from film scans.

If you want something that is very capable, but that is free, give Hugin a try.  There is a wizard that suffices for many stitches, but if you have more complex requirements, there's a huge range of options with attendant learning curve.  There are some very useful tutorials linked through the Hgin site.

I had tried Hugin a very long time ago but I don't think I gave it a fair chance back then. I'll look into it again. Thanks!

I'll keep in mind Auto Pano Pro too.
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