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Author Topic: Retouching images with healing brush...  (Read 3358 times)
Goldhorse
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« on: December 17, 2005, 07:41:05 AM »
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Hi All
I tried to do an adjustment on this ring...trying to remove the camera reflection on the face of the ring...I did this with the healing tool and the Patch tool in PS...I dont get very good reults its a bit smuggy...any ideas how can duplicate the texture, colour and luminocsity of an adjacent part of the image to make the re-touching more blended with the surrounded pixles in the image?

many thanks
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Jonathan Wienke
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« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2005, 07:52:35 AM »
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2 suggestions:

1. Use a longer lens and get the camera farther from the subject. That will dramatically reduce the size of unwanted reflections you'll need to deal with. Doubling the focal length will reduce the reflection to 1/4 of its current size. Subject distance is your friend when shooting shiny stuff, whether it's a ring or a car with high-gloss paint.

2. Try using the clone tool instead of the healing brush or patch. It's less fiddly and easier to use.
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Goldhorse
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« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2005, 10:37:27 AM »
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2 suggestions:

1. Use a longer lens and get the camera farther from the subject. That will dramatically reduce the size of unwanted reflections you'll need to deal with. Doubling the focal length will reduce the reflection to 1/4 of its current size. Subject distance is your friend when shooting shiny stuff, whether it's a ring or a car with high-gloss paint.

2. Try using the clone tool instead of the healing brush or patch. It's less fiddly and easier to use.
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Hi Jonathan
I dont have much distance to play with . Its a Macro Lens (105mm) and the further I go out , the more definition I will loose. I have to consider things like DOF etc to be as close as I can but not too close.
I have also tried the clone tool...similar results...very disapointing
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Tim Gray
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« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2005, 11:17:01 AM »
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first, this kind of problem can be reduced significantly by using a light tent with a zipper opening - just the lens goes through the opening.

The main problem with this kind of correction is using just one technique.  In the attached I used:

clone tool
dodge layer
blur brush
paint with a selected gold color

the trick is to use separate layers and adjust both the opacity of the tool, and then the opacity of the layer.

I admit its a bit rough, but it matches reasonably the tonality of the bottom inner band - which may not be a good thing, since that may be camera reflection as well....
« Last Edit: December 17, 2005, 11:18:20 AM by Tim Gray » Logged
Goldhorse
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« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2005, 11:28:27 AM »
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first, this kind of problem can be reduced significantly by using a light tent with a zipper opening - just the lens goes through the opening.


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I am using a light tent..without a zipper opening..maybe I should do that...
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Goldhorse
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« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2005, 11:32:58 AM »
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The main problem with this kind of correction is using just one technique.  In the attached I used:

clone tool
dodge layer
blur brush
paint with a selected gold color

the trick is to use separate layers and adjust both the opacity of the tool, and then the opacity of the layer.

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Tim
It would help me..if you could jot down the settings you used..for each tool, what was the opacity of the tool and the opacity of the layer...etc...thanks..with these four different tools and 8 different opacities...thats quite alot of variables..32xno. of opacities.  
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Tim Gray
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« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2005, 12:01:37 PM »
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didn't keep the layers... but just going by recollection:

clone tool starts at 50%, but if you re-clone the same area it moves towards 100%, layer was abut 90%

painting agin at 50%, but I don't know how much repition was used, layer about 70%

blur brush, 25%, and layer close to 100%

for the dodge, my setup is based on an action:

new layer
mode overlay
check "fill with overlay neutral color" box.  activating the dodge tool lightens the 50% gray, and the burn tool darkens the 50% gray layer - if you goof, you can repaint the gray layer and re-do easily.

The main thing is to expirement - you can adjust the opacity of the layer after the fact and see the result in real time.  Try this first - add a layer, use the clone tool at 100% opacity to cover the dark reflection - and then play with the opacity of the layer.
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jdemott
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« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2005, 12:17:17 PM »
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The difficult thing in this kind of retouching is to preserve the natural curve of the surface of the object while removing the reflection.  I took a little different approach by creating two duplicate layers above the background layer.  The first, Copy 1, is set to Luminosity blend mode.  The uppermost layer, Copy 2, is set to Color mode.  Make Copy 1 active, choose Image>Adjust>Curves, and bring up the dark end of the curve a lot until the dark tonality of the reflection practically disappears.  Add a layer mask to Copy 1, Hide All, and then use a small soft edged brush set to about 50 percent opacity to paint white in the mask in the area of the reflection until the results look reasonable.  Then make Copy 2 active, make the foreground color equal to the dark gold color from elsewhere on the ring, and paint in the area of the reflection.  Flatten and give the area of the reflection one or two quick hits with the blur tool set to about 40 percent opacity.  As Tim Gray says, you need to experiment a little with the settings but this was done quite quickly--it took much longer to type than to do.


[attachment=64:attachment]
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John DeMott
Goldhorse
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« Reply #8 on: December 17, 2005, 01:31:24 PM »
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Thanks Tim and Idemot both for your input ...
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bobrobert
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« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2005, 07:26:12 AM »
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Thanks Tim and Idemot both for your input ...
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Try selecting the area with a small feather and clone into the area or reverse the selection and clone against the selection This means that the clone will not spread into an area that you don't want it to
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